Any Tutorials on doing Inlays?

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Nov 23, 2003
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I've been considering making a knife handle with inlays. I've seen several of them done that look really nice, and feel that my skills (and maybe tools) are up to the challenge. I realize there are many types of inlays. I'm particularly interested in trying inlays with a style similar to a knife made by Claes Lofgren which was shown in the September 2012 "Blade" Magazine.

I realize that this is a lofty challenge, and that I could never expect an initial final product anywhere near as nice as Claes, but would like to begin to learn the techniques.

Could any of you provide some hints, location of tutorials, or other information which may get me started down this path?

Photos of Claes' knife is shown below. I've saved them on my site so that I'm not leaching bandwidth from his website with this post. Since these are his photos and his knife, I suggest that anyone who likes it visit his site at http://www.lofgrenknives.com/.

BigChief_500.jpg


BigChiefClose_500.jpg


BigChiefClose1_500.jpg


BigChiefWSClose_500.jpg


Thanks in advance,

Mike L.
 
I am not sure about over here but at engravingforum.com there is a bunch of that stuff.
 
The inlay work is the easy part of that handle. The scrimshaw is exquisite.....and far more complex.

Inlay work is done several ways, but the basic principle is to create the inlay piece with the bottom shaped to match the handle surface, and the sides very slightly beveled - about 2-3 degrees, no more. The inlay piece should be thicker than it needs to be, and unfinished on the surface. Next, trace around it with a sharp pencil. I often temporarily glue the piece in place with a tiny dot of glue. After tracing around the piece and removing it, inlet the recess, starting from the center and getting closer to the line drawn. Go slow and fit the inlay until it seats in the hole snug all the way around. Make sure it is deep enough to allow the final shaping of the handle. Many folks have installed an inlay too thin and shallow set, that was ground through when sanded. Glue it in place with epoxy tinted to match the inlay color, or the wood color. There should be a recess in the inlay pocket with just the edge of the inlay piece seated. This will allow the epoxy to pool below the inlay and make a good bond. Another tip is to drill a small hole from the middle of the inlay pocket to the center "tang hole" on a hidden tang, or the other side of the scale for a full tang. This allows the epoxy excess to squeeze out from the back and not get trapped in the recess and prevent the inlay from seating fully. Obviously, this only works on an unmounted handle.
When the epoxy is fully cured, sand/file/grind the surface flush and to the final shape ( that is why you wanted it thicker than needed). If the inlay is ivory and will be carved or scrimshawn, proceed with that next.
 
Stacy,

Yeah, isn't the scrimshaw work on that incredible?

Anyone,

How about the top and bottom ivory sections on this handle? I suspect they are solid pieces and not inlaid? How would one go about fastening those? Hidden pins? Mortise?
 
Yes, thanks alot for the link to the book on carving. I'm going to study this well.

Here's another place where it's surely advised to take small steps before trying to leap.

Cheers,

M. LoGiudice
 
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