Anyone cold blue their Beckers?

Joined
Jan 29, 2013
Messages
48
I was thinking about all the neat pictures of stripped Beckers on this forum, and I wondered if anyone has cold tried blueing one. I've used cold blue while gunsmithing before. It had a darkening effect on the parts, and helped protect against rust, provided I did periodic maintainence. I'm wondering how it'd work to strip and cold blue a Becker. Anyone that's tried it want to post pictures? I wish I could contribute more to the Becker Forum, but I'm stuck asking questions for the next few months instead of trying things myself and posting results. When I get home, m.j.carp and I will probably have some kind of Becker Party, and post a few pics of my bad ideas. :)
 
Welcome. Here is a picture of a 14 that modded and made scales for then cold blued.

100_2042.jpg
 
I cold blued a Ranger RD7 once. Came out pretty good.
 
I thought I just saw a 7 zipping around here that was cold blued. Can't remember where it was though
 
Welcome. Here is a picture of a 14 that modded and made scales for then cold blued.

100_2042.jpg

Could you explain about the scales... the hexagonal cut for the bolt?

Very nice mod, I really like the sweep of the spine. How would you do this for the BK-24?
 
Belt sander, go slow. I mean spend more time in the water bowl and less on the belt sander to avoid overheating. I am not sure how cold bluing would work on D2.
For the hex bolts, it depends on the material used. Micarta, you can heat a hex nut cherry red and press into the micarta. Use a drill press to hold the a bolt that the hex nut is screwed on. Then use the drill press for what it does best, bringing the heated nut straight down into the micarta.
For wood, get yourself a tiny chisel, or sharpen a small screwdriver, and chisel out your hex shape.
I cold blued a Ranger Shiv, came out nicely. Did about 5 coats of bluing.
 
That BK14 looks good!
SpikeHawk-Great info, I would have expected to need to apply the blueing more than once as well. I guess I could probably just step it straight up to 5 times to take the guess work out of it.
 
I cold blued mine. It didn't come out very even but looks better in person than in the photo.

photo719b_zps27af512f.jpg
 
My BK16 had been cold-blued by the previous owner. (He etched the flats first.)



As a camp knife, I figured I'd use it for food prep on occasion, so I ground it off and patnina'd it instead.
 
BK10

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Cattaraugus 225Q

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Ka-Bar short heavy bowie

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Another short heavy bowie

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CS Bushman

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Da King

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Could you explain about the scales... the hexagonal cut for the bolt?

Very nice mod, I really like the sweep of the spine. How would you do this for the BK-24?

Thanks guys, it is a pretty straight forward process as far as modding the knife. Like the others said keep it really cool and go slow. The scales are actually made from a set of tweener grivory that was extra with my bk16 here is a link to the thread where I kind of show how I did it all. If you decide to try it have fun and be sure to post lots of pictures.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/986618-Customized-bk14
 
I have one of the (formerly) gray painted Campanions. I stripped it using a flap wheel and a Dremel tool. Left a few little gouges in the metal. Maybe one day I'll sand it down and re-blue it, but it's been like this for a few years. Right now, it's wearing the Becker micarta scales.

CopyofDSC_2911_zpsc8e2aa16.jpg
 
Thanks guys, it is a pretty straight forward process as far as modding the knife. Like the others said keep it really cool and go slow. The scales are actually made from a set of tweener grivory that was extra with my bk16 here is a link to the thread where I kind of show how I did it all. If you decide to try it have fun and be sure to post lots of pictures.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...ustomized-bk14

Thanks so much for this post. I had no idea how the holes for the scale bolts were done so well. Great idea and the sweep of the drop point is a perfect form. I have to wonder how hard that mod would be on the D2 steel of the BK 24?
 
No problem, it was a fun mod and I'm glad to share it. If you are using a belt sander instead of files I think it would be a pretty quick job. The hard part of the one I did was getting the swedges to look even on both sides. If you are just making the drop point more gradual I think it would be really easy. I would expect the D2 would need more frequent cooling though. It's high wear resistance makes me think the friction of the belt will build up heat wicker than the 1095CV. Frequent dips in water would remedy that though.
 
I blued a couple but have long since sanded it back down since I use most of my knife for food prep.
Bad stuff to get into your system. I actually called Birchwood Casey and asked for myself and they said absolutely do not eat off of a blued blade.
 
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