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Anyone have experience with a klecker lock?
- Thread starter Ernie1980
- Start date
The Klecker lock is basically a modified lock back. A lock back basically has a spring that keeps it down into the frame of the knife. The klecker lock is the actual frame/handle of the knife that locks the blade into place. So instead of a spring, you have structural pressure from the frame. The more pressure you add to the handle of the knife, the stronger the lock becomes.
I have the CRKT Nirk Tighe. While I like the design of the knife and everything, it is nearly impossible to close the knife with one hand so I don't know if you would consider that ease of use. I find the lock to be very reliable. Even if you add no pressure to the handle, it still has no blade play or wiggle in any direction. So your grip only makes it stronger.
I have the CRKT Nirk Tighe. While I like the design of the knife and everything, it is nearly impossible to close the knife with one hand so I don't know if you would consider that ease of use. I find the lock to be very reliable. Even if you add no pressure to the handle, it still has no blade play or wiggle in any direction. So your grip only makes it stronger.
Your welcome. I personally would try a crkt with a klecker lock instead of buying a Brian Tighe custom. That way if you don't like it, you can check out his other designs.
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2006
- Messages
- 9,684
Way late, but I will say that I love the one on my CRKT Tighe Rod. Locks up tight, zero play, won't unlock no matter how hard you squeeze the handle in a normal grip (which was a concern of mine before trying it), yet unlocks easily by pressing the rear with your thumb. Very cool and mechanical looking, too. :thumbup: Here's an overhead view, with the Tighe on the left.
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2014
- Messages
- 162
I just got the Tighe Rod . Beautiful knife . Really slim and slick action.
Unlocking the blade is a little painful on the thumb ( side or tip ).
It's not a great fondling cue, but should be fine as an EDC.
I wish CRKT put some jimping at the bottom of the blade and the lock bar.
Unlocking the blade is a little painful on the thumb ( side or tip ).
It's not a great fondling cue, but should be fine as an EDC.
I wish CRKT put some jimping at the bottom of the blade and the lock bar.
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2014
- Messages
- 162
I close it by releasing the blade, then push the blade with the outside of my right thigh. It's pretty safe as long as you keep the tip down.
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2013
- Messages
- 1,226
Hi...I have the Nirk Tighe Coon (Klecker lock) and the button lock Tighe Coon....in both cases, awesome knife....and while I enjoy the Nirk Tighe Coon, I usually play with the button lock about 90% of the time....way easier, way faster, way more fun.
Hi. This video will show you a way to open and close Klecker lock with one hand.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUe8D4ewSxs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUe8D4ewSxs
There is much more to it than the beauty that meets the eye as far as the one I have.
I find the Klecker Lock on the CRKT Nirk Tighe from general observation to be the most dirt and debris resistant locking folder I have ever seen. Having worked a number of years at the beach as a lifeguard my experience is that nothing, nothing from sealed plastic bags etc.. I have tried can keep those micro sand and mineral particles out of whatever you don't want them to wind up in when you keep them with you on the windy sandy beach. I had a Beretta lock back zytel folding knife (remember the ones with the cut outs in the blade) with a 440c blade. In no time at all the sand particles got in and gummed up the precision fitted lockbar and pivot despite my best attempts to keep it clean. This made the knife unable to lock up properly and safely It also started to show rust spots in time that had to be quickly addressed. The enclosed assembly (hard to clean enclosed assemblies found in almost every folder are a pain at the beach) and precision fit did not allow fast easy cleaning.
I you look at the Klecker Lock on the Nirk Tighe you will see there is no place for debris to impede function except for the blade pivot and ball bearing assembly. This means even if debris got in the pivot the other areas around the lock are wide open, visible and easy to clean as easy as using a q-tip, rag, rinse or whatever material on hand etc,, you can find.
There is no lock bar pivot pin to get gummed up and every part of the locking mechanism which is basically the handle itself has openings the size of the grand canyon that won't need to be cleaned even if globs of grime were hanging in between the gaps. Even if the blade is gummed up stiff and has to be opened with two hands the lock will still function flawlessly and the knife will still be totally usable.
As for rust my experience is the word stainless on the beach means nothing. If it's not a totally (bad choice of words there is no such thing as totally rust proof) rust proof steel (I mean VERY rust resistant not rust proof) like H1 and other steels like it rust resistance is going to be just somebodies wishful dream.
The Klecker Lock design is a great locking folder design in my opinion for a sandy environment and if made of a rust proof (VERY rust resistant not proof) steel would be suitable for a sandy humid salt water environment as well.
A fixed blade solves all these problems but some people like me prefer folders and feel safer with them than with a sheath knife. I find I have to treat a sheath knife with more vigilance than a folder. I once had a fixed blade knife come out the sheath in a back pack while bicycling. It was a very sharp knife and thankfully it did not injure me while riding. I had no idea until I opened the pack. Granted the sheath was a run of the mill standard leather friction grip type and a high quality sheath would have likely held fast but I still find a blade folded into the handle to be quite safe not to mention more compact.
The Klecker Lock is also one of those locks that lock stronger as you grip harder. I love the design and find my self playing with it a lot.
If fast one hand closing is a must then this knife is not for you. It is best to use two hands to close and one hand closing if needed should be done slowly and carefully. I would like a deeper lock notch like the Demko AD15 (maybe not as deep but deeper) as it is it's probably typical lock back strong ? maybe a little stronger ? but a deeper notch would likely make it brute force strong. I imagine they don't because there may complaints about how hard it would be to for some to unlock.
I love one handed closing when I play with knives but I can live just fine without it if it means having a more secure lock. I find no need to act like it's the end of the world if my knife cannot quickly be closed with one hand.
Nick Shabazz is not a fan of the Klecker Lock and he is right about all the things he pointed out but he really should consider that this lock does have a place where it is and can be even more very much appreciated.
Finally I have to say the Nirk Tighe Klecker Lock knife is a beautiful work of art that take a back seat to no one when it comes to function. I do a lot of food processing with mine.
My trademark coarse sarcastic jokes have been edited. I am sorry if I offended anyone.
I find the Klecker Lock on the CRKT Nirk Tighe from general observation to be the most dirt and debris resistant locking folder I have ever seen. Having worked a number of years at the beach as a lifeguard my experience is that nothing, nothing from sealed plastic bags etc.. I have tried can keep those micro sand and mineral particles out of whatever you don't want them to wind up in when you keep them with you on the windy sandy beach. I had a Beretta lock back zytel folding knife (remember the ones with the cut outs in the blade) with a 440c blade. In no time at all the sand particles got in and gummed up the precision fitted lockbar and pivot despite my best attempts to keep it clean. This made the knife unable to lock up properly and safely It also started to show rust spots in time that had to be quickly addressed. The enclosed assembly (hard to clean enclosed assemblies found in almost every folder are a pain at the beach) and precision fit did not allow fast easy cleaning.
I you look at the Klecker Lock on the Nirk Tighe you will see there is no place for debris to impede function except for the blade pivot and ball bearing assembly. This means even if debris got in the pivot the other areas around the lock are wide open, visible and easy to clean as easy as using a q-tip, rag, rinse or whatever material on hand etc,, you can find.
There is no lock bar pivot pin to get gummed up and every part of the locking mechanism which is basically the handle itself has openings the size of the grand canyon that won't need to be cleaned even if globs of grime were hanging in between the gaps. Even if the blade is gummed up stiff and has to be opened with two hands the lock will still function flawlessly and the knife will still be totally usable.
As for rust my experience is the word stainless on the beach means nothing. If it's not a totally (bad choice of words there is no such thing as totally rust proof) rust proof steel (I mean VERY rust resistant not rust proof) like H1 and other steels like it rust resistance is going to be just somebodies wishful dream.
The Klecker Lock design is a great locking folder design in my opinion for a sandy environment and if made of a rust proof (VERY rust resistant not proof) steel would be suitable for a sandy humid salt water environment as well.
A fixed blade solves all these problems but some people like me prefer folders and feel safer with them than with a sheath knife. I find I have to treat a sheath knife with more vigilance than a folder. I once had a fixed blade knife come out the sheath in a back pack while bicycling. It was a very sharp knife and thankfully it did not injure me while riding. I had no idea until I opened the pack. Granted the sheath was a run of the mill standard leather friction grip type and a high quality sheath would have likely held fast but I still find a blade folded into the handle to be quite safe not to mention more compact.
The Klecker Lock is also one of those locks that lock stronger as you grip harder. I love the design and find my self playing with it a lot.
If fast one hand closing is a must then this knife is not for you. It is best to use two hands to close and one hand closing if needed should be done slowly and carefully. I would like a deeper lock notch like the Demko AD15 (maybe not as deep but deeper) as it is it's probably typical lock back strong ? maybe a little stronger ? but a deeper notch would likely make it brute force strong. I imagine they don't because there may complaints about how hard it would be to for some to unlock.
I love one handed closing when I play with knives but I can live just fine without it if it means having a more secure lock. I find no need to act like it's the end of the world if my knife cannot quickly be closed with one hand.
Nick Shabazz is not a fan of the Klecker Lock and he is right about all the things he pointed out but he really should consider that this lock does have a place where it is and can be even more very much appreciated.
Finally I have to say the Nirk Tighe Klecker Lock knife is a beautiful work of art that take a back seat to no one when it comes to function. I do a lot of food processing with mine.
My trademark coarse sarcastic jokes have been edited. I am sorry if I offended anyone.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2001
- Messages
- 4,306
3 things wrong with the post above ^^
1) This thread is 7 years old.
2) There is no such thing as "totally rust proof steel."
3) Nick Shabazz is a legend in his own mind. Citing his viewpoint about something means absolutely nothing to me.
1) This thread is 7 years old.
2) There is no such thing as "totally rust proof steel."
3) Nick Shabazz is a legend in his own mind. Citing his viewpoint about something means absolutely nothing to me.
Last edited:
- Joined
- May 29, 2020
- Messages
- 2,590
I concur
My CRKT Nirk Tighe is almost brand new.
Nick Shabazz explains his viewpoints quite well and I would guess puts a lot more time and effort than perhaps you into contributing and sharing his experiences with the knife community. This man must have saved me hours of work by sharing his disassembly videos and tips. His views make a lot of logical sense and he proves it by illustrating them in detailed videos. His views are highly regarded by me and I am not alone.
I find Nick Shabazz to be very respectful, flexible, and understanding when it comes to the viewpoints of others unlike you. He also communicates that quite well also unlike you.
Yes I think we all know there is no such thing as literally rust proof steel but newer purpose designed steel for salt water use comes close and works quite well.
Thats 3 things wrong with you including your assertion (hints) that this post needs to mean something to you to be generally acceptable.
Nick Shabazz explains his viewpoints quite well and I would guess puts a lot more time and effort than perhaps you into contributing and sharing his experiences with the knife community. This man must have saved me hours of work by sharing his disassembly videos and tips. His views make a lot of logical sense and he proves it by illustrating them in detailed videos. His views are highly regarded by me and I am not alone.
I find Nick Shabazz to be very respectful, flexible, and understanding when it comes to the viewpoints of others unlike you. He also communicates that quite well also unlike you.
Yes I think we all know there is no such thing as literally rust proof steel but newer purpose designed steel for salt water use comes close and works quite well.
Thats 3 things wrong with you including your assertion (hints) that this post needs to mean something to you to be generally acceptable.
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