Anyone seen a good tutorial for inlays

T

TXDan

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Feb 5, 2012
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I have a couple of snake skins and would like to attempt my first inlay sheath. I will be hand stitching and would like to do a fixed blade pouch or folder pouch. I am in the research phase on this so any info is appreciated.
 
Paul Longs DVDs. His advanced video has inlays but all of them are well worth the money.
 
Paul also attached a tutorial to a thread here recently. Should be here on the first page.
 
Great tutorial. I was definitely off on how they were constructed so I appreciate the lesson. One thing I don't understand... Did you split the leather for the inlay? Unless I'm reading the words wrong (not unlikely) it reads as if it's split into layers (step #7). If that's the case, what splitter are you using, and are two thin full grain layers sufficient?
 
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Its interesting to see how many different ways there are to do inlays. I learned from Dave Cole who had a different direction, and to me a little easier for a hand stitcher. I know Dave did a tutorial, I'll find it and put a link down. Might take a little time though.
 
That would be great. I love hand stitching. Nothing wrong with a machine of course, but hand stitching does seem to have a learning curve. Still working on it. Do the fine stitches for something like an inlay still use a saddle stitch?

Op, I hope you don't mind me asking questions, I'm not trying to turn it into MY thread, just figure it's all relevant. :o
 
Strigamort said:
Great tutorial. I was definitely off on how they were constructed so I appreciate the lesson. One thing I don't understand... Did you split the leather for the inlay? Unless I'm reading the words wrong (not unlikely) it reads as if it's split into layers (step #7). If that's the case, what splitter are you using, and are two thin full grain layers sufficient?
Click to expand...

Yes, it was split about 50/50 starting with a piece of 7/8oz. The splitter that was used in that tutorial was a 6" Landis 30 hand crank. I now use a Cobra 14 motorized splitter. You can also do the same thing without a splitter with a 2/3oz for the window piece and about 6oz for the backing. The reason for the split is to have the front window piece fairly thin so that the "step" from the exotic to the veg. tan edge is not so thick and noticeable. It just makes for a better looking and more professional finished product. I have never attempted hand stitching around the inlays, but I would say you would want to be at least 8 SPI and using much smaller thread and needle. I didn't do inlay work before I got my machines.

I have seen inlays done without splitting, but they are just not my cup of tea. Too bulky looking with that thick window step. To each his own.

Paul
 
Thanks Paul. They sell leather "splits", but they may have a faux coating to mimic full grain? Would that stuff work well? It's pretty inexpensive, and it's veg tanned. Thin too, I think 2/3oz.

Edit- just re-read what you wrote. The split would be too thin.

I've seen one guy that uses really thick leather for windows and it looks all wrong to me, so I'm with you there. Makes you want to point it out, but that would be terribly rude since he isn't looking for a critique. Maybe if it were coming from you, but I'm in no position to say anything! The bummer is that he makes nice knives. The sheaths seem to devalue his proficient knife work somehow, if that makes sense. :(
 
You dont need to look for splits Strig, but you will need to find that 2/3 or 3/4 ounce leather. I get it by the side as I found a stash that has some good body to it, I like the leather for windows to be a bit on the stiff side. Occasionally, with very large sheaths I've found 5 ounce to work better. Nice thing about having a good stash of thin leather is that you have a built in supply of lining leather.

For a backer, 7/8 or 8/9 depending on the size of the knife. My windows tend to be on the large side, 1/2 inch border on average so I like to keep the backer thicker especially when I use thinner skins. Thicker stuff like beaver tail and gator dont need a thicker backing.

As far as the fellow using heavier leather for his windows, that is his choice and he probably has good reason and done right tends to look just fine. Choice in leather thickness, overall, is an "eye of the beholder" thing. If I started using 7/8 ounce leather my customers would dissipate like steam. At the same time, if Paul started using 9/10 ounce leather his customers would throw a fit. :)
 
Thanks, that would be great having a supply of both window and lining material. I'll have to look for a double shoulder.

You're 100% right about the sheaths made using thick window leather. If the customer is happy, there's nothing to complain about.

I wonder if the top piece could be "skived" using a wide belt sander. I've had good results tapering welts. Much better than using the safety skiver. Not sure how that would pan out with a large piece though. I'll have to give it a shot while I wait for thin stock to come in.
 
That brings back a flood of memories.
 
That mentioned something I've been wondering about. Padding.

I intend to use it under my snakeskins, but haven't settled on what to use. Is there any reason not to use certain materials? I would think something non-hygroscopic would be preferable over something like open cell foam. Maybe neoprene?

What do you guys use?
 
I dont pad very much these days, I kind of like the skin to stay below the frame. One nifty trick I saw Dave use was the leather he cut the window out of, slightly trimmed. Last time I used a padding, 2002 I believe, I used a dense foam rubber. Might not be the best choice though, I bet there are much better alternatives now.
 
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