Anyone use coconut oil on their knives?

I use butcher block oil. An 8 fl oz bottle has lasted me several years. And occasionally good old 3-1 if I feel the need.
Funnily enough the butcher block oil I use is from the US.
Catskill Original Butchers Block Oil from Stamford, NY.
www.catskillcraftsmen.com
 
The Norton Sharpening Stone oil I have in a little 4.5 oz can is about ideal ...

I wish I could easily get hold of it here, I've been asking in hardware stores for the past couple of years, and only yesterday was searching online again (available, but expensive). For the joints of my knives, I've been using these for a while now, the mineral oil is also very high grade and food safe. You don't get a lot of it, but it oils a lot of penknives :thumbsup:

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I wish I could easily get hold of it here
It used to be easier to find in the US as well. For a while, one of the big hardware store chains carried both the Norton Economy 6" oil stone and the 4.5 oz Norton Honing Oil at about $6 and $5 each, respectively. I picked up two of each at the time. Somewhere along the line, they stopped carrying both, though I can still find the oil at one on-line dealer. I am still working my way through those two, but I tend to reserve the sharpening stone oil for knives and use other mineral oils for sharpening.

Seems like a common occurrence in recent years where products and brands that you took for granted would always be available just disappear. One reason to stock up while you can still get things, especially things that are a particularly good value for your money. Those are the ones that are more likely to vanish. Or maybe it's just because I am old enough now to where things I consider to be "recent memory" happened 20 years ago. :)
 
It used to be easier to find in the US as well. For a while, one of the big hardware store chains carried both the Norton Economy 6" oil stone and the 4.5 oz Norton Honing Oil at about $6 and $5 each, respectively. I picked up two of each at the time. Somewhere along the line, they stopped carrying both, though I can still find the oil at one on-line dealer. I am still working my way through those two, but I tend to reserve the sharpening stone oil for knives and use other mineral oils for sharpening.

Seems like a common occurrence in recent years where products and brands that you took for granted would always be available just disappear. One reason to stock up while you can still get things, especially things that are a particularly good value for your money. Those are the ones that are more likely to vanish. Or maybe it's just because I am old enough now to where things I consider to be "recent memory" happened 20 years ago. :)
The Norton Honing Oil is still available at my local Home Depot. It is highly refined mineral oil and FDA approved food safe. I use it on all of my knives. The only exception is when I run into a restoration project or a new folder with a gritty or sluggish action that’s when I reach for my 20+ year old can of 3 in 1 oil.
 
Never used coconut oil. I don't own any as far as I know. I generally use food-grade mineral oils. They are sold in several guises - as laxatives (for people and livestock), as cutting board oils, and as sharpening stone oils.

I've got several kinds laying around the house. I find the Mineral Oil USP from the pharmacy to be a bit thicker than I like for knife joints. The Norton Sharpening Stone oil I have in a little 4.5 oz can is about ideal for it, and it has a spout which makes it easy to apply a single drop.

I have a bottle of Norton sharpening stone oil that I used to use with my Arkansas stones (I've since switched to DMT diamond stones for almost all my sharpening). I didn't realize that it was mineral oil! :confused: It is a bit thinner than the mineral oil from the pharmacy, but I've never really found the pharmacy stuff to be too thick.

I don't think it's food safe, but for a knife with a gritty joint or something like that, I'll use Ballistol.
 
So we ran out of mineral oil but we have a ton of coconut oil at the house. It has a 21% fat content but seems to be a fairly stable oil. I have used it some in the past to revive buffalo horn but never put it on a blade. Does anyone use it on your blades? How will it effect 1095, will it help protect a patina, will it create more patina?
Hello! Natural oils like Coconut can turn rancid and if you cut any food, a snack of sausage etc if it gets contaminated it can make you Defecate like a Goose!:eek:———- I recommend to my customers all of the time to refrain from using Olive Oil etc on cutting boards for this very reason. —— on my folders I light a candle and put a drop or two of the melted wax in the pivot! It works great and doesn’t collect all of the lint like oils do!! Try it!——-/—-As far and coating Blades to protect them use car wax. Start with one you may have around the house! You can use Floor wax as well. They work fine!
 
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I have a bottle of Norton sharpening stone oil that I used to use with my Arkansas stones (I've since switched to DMT diamond stones for almost all my sharpening). I didn't realize that it was mineral oil! :confused: It is a bit thinner than the mineral oil from the pharmacy, but I've never really found the pharmacy stuff to be too thick.

I don't think it's food safe, but for a knife with a gritty joint or something like that, I'll use Ballistol.

I just looked up the norton sharpening stone oil. It says, food safe and ultra refined mineral oil.
 
I just looked up the norton sharpening stone oil. It says, food safe and ultra refined mineral oil.
I think he was referring to Ballistol not being food safe. Ballistol does make a food safe formulation, "Ballistol H1", which meets the NSF H1 certification for use on products with incidental food contact. The regular stuff may or may not be safe, but it is not certified.

Norton Sharpening Stone Oil meets the USP standard (meaning, same as the stuff you drink on purpose as a laxative) but is not NSF rated.
 
I don't know if the fact oil gets rancid would impair its lubricant/protective behaviours. Anyway, since i don't use my knives to dress my salad it wouldn't matter so much.
I am not too concerned about "food grade" as well, the minimal layer on the blade, after i wiped it with a cotton rag won't cause any harm...maybe i should stop breathing in town if i would be actually concerned for my health. But i don't use my blades in a professional environment.
The best oil i have tryied and the one i use now is the "Singer" sewing machine oil. Just a drop and a rag's wipe every now and then and the babies walk & talk like nobody's business...above and beyond any generic mineral, food grade, "baby" oil i have tested.
 
It used to be easier to find in the US as well. For a while, one of the big hardware store chains carried both the Norton Economy 6" oil stone and the 4.5 oz Norton Honing Oil at about $6 and $5 each, respectively. I picked up two of each at the time. Somewhere along the line, they stopped carrying both, though I can still find the oil at one on-line dealer. I am still working my way through those two, but I tend to reserve the sharpening stone oil for knives and use other mineral oils for sharpening.

Seems like a common occurrence in recent years where products and brands that you took for granted would always be available just disappear. One reason to stock up while you can still get things, especially things that are a particularly good value for your money. Those are the ones that are more likely to vanish. Or maybe it's just because I am old enough now to where things I consider to be "recent memory" happened 20 years ago. :)

I know just what you mean John :) I can order it online, but the prices are through the roof! :eek:

The Norton Honing Oil is still available at my local Home Depot. It is highly refined mineral oil and FDA approved food safe. I use it on all of my knives. The only exception is when I run into a restoration project or a new folder with a gritty or sluggish action that’s when I reach for my 20+ year old can of 3 in 1 oil.

Yes, if I have to soak an old folder, I still use 3-in-1. I have tried "unscented" baby oil, but it still has a sickening perfume smell I really don't like.

Just google Norton sharpening oil, the big river has a 4-1/2 oz can for a tenner, the 16 oz size is a tenner and a sawbuck...

How many sawbucks to the shilling? :confused: ;) :D :thumbsup:

I don't know if the fact oil gets rancid would impair its lubricant/protective behaviours. Anyway, since i don't use my knives to dress my salad it wouldn't matter so much.
I am not too concerned about "food grade" as well, the minimal layer on the blade, after i wiped it with a cotton rag won't cause any harm...maybe i should stop breathing in town if i would be actually concerned for my health. But i don't use my blades in a professional environment.
The best oil i have tryied and the one i use now is the "Singer" sewing machine oil. Just a drop and a rag's wipe every now and then and the babies walk & talk like nobody's business...above and beyond any generic mineral, food grade, "baby" oil i have tested.

I'm yet to try Singer sewing machine oil, but for years I used a light machine oil my younger brother had originally bought as a kid, for oiling his toy train. It came with a wee brush in the bottle. I have asked in hobby shops, but they don't seem to make it anymore :(
 
I never experiment with oils I am not familiar with how they will effect my knives. My reasoning is that most all oils have a tendency to attract dust and therefore get gunky. I have been using the same system for many years with great results mineral oil for blades, liners and springs 3 in 1 for pivots Ren Wax for knives to be stored or displayed. I clean knives with Dawn and warm water polish blades with either Flitz or Mothers metal polish. If I buy an old knife that is rusty or seized up I soak it over night in mineral oil.
 
I thought about asking this question in a new thread, but since several have already commented about mineral oil not being safe for stag, please let me ask here:

What is safe to use around stag? And should I be concerned about using mineral oil on pivots of a stag knife if I am careful to wipe it down and not allow any excess to get on the covers?

I only have one knife with stag covers right now, but I just ordered another and would like to acquire more, so I want to know the right way to treat it.
 
mineral oil not being safe for stag
It's fine to get some mineral oil on stag during knife maintenance, assuming you wipe if off afterwards, but it's not good to soak stag in oil from what I have read here. I use a product called Renaissance Wax on bone and stag, even Delrin if I want to bring out the beauty and protect it. Doesn't take much.
 
It's fine to get some mineral oil on stag during knife maintenance, assuming you wipe if off afterwards, but it's not good to soak stag in oil from what I have read here. I use a product called Renaissance Wax on bone and stag, even Delrin if I want to bring out the beauty and protect it. Doesn't take much.
This is what I do too. Plain old mineral oil for blades and pivots, Renaissance Wax on stag, wood and bone. A little goes a long way.
 
I thought about asking this question in a new thread, but since several have already commented about mineral oil not being safe for stag, please let me ask here:

What is safe to use around stag? And should I be concerned about using mineral oil on pivots of a stag knife if I am careful to wipe it down and not allow any excess to get on the covers?

I only have one knife with stag covers right now, but I just ordered another and would like to acquire more, so I want to know the right way to treat it.

Mineral oil is OK to use on the joints of a Stag knife, or a light rub down with it. It's prolonged exposure you want to avoid, smothering it or soaking it can soften and cause other oddities. Don't panic, it's not like salt water on unprotected carbon steel:eek:

Waxes, beeswax, Ren Wax etc work nicely. Stag responds well to frequent handling, the acids and oils on your skin actually enhances the look of it over many years, so relax :thumbsup: You can try Coconut Oil too! Use a light coating from time to time, all this talk about oils going rancid nonplusses me. Maybe if you coat it with certain oils and then leave it for months, years untouched it would go rancid, but with users there no time for it. I consume about half a litre of Olive Oil a month, probably more, no time for that to go off. Maybe I should try half a litre of mineral oil (non food grade) :D:eek::poop::D:poop:
 
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