Anyone use epoxy for a tough, clear handle finish?

G

GrizzlyBear

Joined
Dec 5, 2009
Messages
1,528
I know lots of folks use CA as a fine finish. I'm curious if anyone uses epoxy in much the same manner. Build up a nice coat, let it cure then sand to maybe 2000 (or higher) and buff. I would think that it would create some 'depth' to the finish much like a clear coat does to automotive paint.

What do you guys think?
 
Ariel Salaverria- he did this crazy knife. Very creative. It was a canister-welded cable blade, you could see the cable in the ricasso, unwelded surface like a rope. So he continued the twist back into the handle by using a piece of large rope for the handle. He soaked the rope in epoxy and pressed it, making sort of rope-carta, and then after drilling it etc. for the handle fitup, finished it by painting with a coat of epoxy. It looks almost lightly encased in lucite. I don't think he buffed it or anything. So cool. I don't know why I explained it fully when here's the link:
http://www.aescustomknives.com/docs/knifemaking7.htm
 
Rustin's 2 part plastic will give you a high gloss very deep looking finish. Just brush or airbrush on 6-8 coats waiting 2 hrs between coats then rub back with 2000-2500g wet n dry and then hand buff with Brasso. I used it for a couple of years, David Brodziak has been using it for years.
Cheers Bruce
 
I rehandled a friend's kitchen parring knife and gave it a coating of epoxy. I confess I didn't do a very good job and after the glue had set it had not leveled itself off the way a liquid finish can do. I didn't try sanding it, I just put a single coat on. I don't recommend doing it the way I did.

LonePine
AKA Paul Meske, Wisconsin
 
I have had difficulty getting epoxy thin enough to coat evenly, but multiple coats with sanding in between would probably solve that. I guess I am lazy. Ariel Salaverria is one clever bloke. I find his work absolutely compelling and imaginative.
 
I have done that with stabilized wood. The color was a tad light when I got it sanded down real fine, so i just used a little too much epoxy putting the handle on and the little bit that oozed out i just rubbed it into the handle and then wiped off as much as I could. Darkened the wood up a tad like I wanted. I did not have a buffer at the time, so I couldn't really polish and darken it that way.
 
off-topic a bit... I've seen where makers have built up a handle on a narrow tang by wrapping with their material (cotton, canvas, whatever) and liberally applying epoxy between layers. Seems to work OK but you couldn't be sure there was no voids.

The problem with using epoxies to fill small voids on a finished handle is, it's quite viscous and very likely to have tiny air bubbles in it. I suspect those dang bubbles would stick out like a sore thumb. The pro's use high-end CA (not dime-store super-glue) for a reason.

EDIT: jdm61, if the wood was truly stabilized, putting any kind of finish on it shouldn't matter much. No offense to you or your vendor, just saying that I've have similar experiences with "stabilized" wood and I've gotten a bit cynical about it.
 
Last edited:
using epoxy as a finish is very common in the marine industry. I use west systems on my boats but they have a special catalyst just for it. The nice thing about West Systems is the resin is the same, but you can buy different catalysts for different applications. Part A is called "105" and I believe their clear top coat part B is called "207." It isn't cheap, but it is some of the best epoxy out there. I buy mine a gallon at a time, at over a hundred bucks but then I just buy the different catalysts for different projects. They also sell pre calibrated pumps for their containers which makes mixing very user friendly. Most epoxies can be thinned with acetone but I wouldn't go more than maybe 20%. Gougeon Brothers is the maker if you want to look up some tech info, but it is readily available through most chandleries. Oh if you want to experiment they sell little repair kits with just an ounce or so.


-Xander
 
I have used it a lot as a finish on wood - for knife grips and other things. The only thing to worry about is the lack of UV resistance unless you put something over the top of it. Not a problem with knives but for stuff that will be stored outdoors it is a consideration.

To apply I mix up a small quantity and dab a bit on the knife grip then smear it around with my finger (wear disposable gloves). The epoxy doesn't adhere to the plastic glove but does to the wood. Spread it real thin and let it soak in then do another coat when its tacky until the wood doesn't absorb it any more. Keep building it up if you want a thick glossy coat or leave it at 2 or 3 thin coats and have a matte finish which I prefer.Don't be tempted to put too much on at once.
 
2many- your method of wet on wet application of the epoxy is what I've seen to be the best way to do this. Helps the layers of epoxy adhere to themselves in more of a chemical bond. I think I may do a practice piece with some scrap I have and see how well it turns out.

This may be somewhat of an adequate solution for finishing softer wood handles that aren't stabalized. (other than CA)
 
You can use Brownell's Acra Glass, add at least an equal among to Brownell's Acra Glass thinner and rub it in well, wipe off the excess, let it cure and sand.
 
It's funny - some of my first knives had 'ropecarta' handles! I used jute twine soaked in Devcon wood repair epoxy. Wet the stuff as you go, and wrap it (very tightly) over the tang of a knife. It didn't look all that great the way I did it, but it felt pretty good in hand, and the guy who bought it has reported that it works well and holds up. It feels halfway between micarta and stabilized wood. Really rather lightweight the way I used it. I did not like it when it first cured - it had a clear, smooth, shiny finish. Looked like part of a cheap fiberglass tree. I think you could get better results with a different epoxy though...maybe something thinner?

Something I have thought about was coating a handle with a layer of epoxy and hitting it with black aquarium sand -- something like the abrasive from skateboard tape. If it held in the epoxy well enough I think that might make an interesting looking and high traction finish. Rough never bothered my hands much, but if that's a concern I think a finer grit might make it more agreeable to more people...
 
I haven't done it in a number of years but I used to use AcraGlas on exceptionally porous handles with success. My method was to apply a very heavy coat of it and then to heat it with a propane torch to thin it for better penetration. You will need to be careful not to overheat it however. If you do then it will bubble as well as set prematurely. The excess can be sanded off & buffed to a high gloss if desired.
 
Just to mention a caution, do not heat the Acra Glass with a torch if you have diluted it with the thinner, the thinner is highly flammable. Once the Acra Glass has set up this danger is over.
 
james terrio said:
off-topic a bit... I've seen where makers have built up a handle on a narrow tang by wrapping with their material (cotton, canvas, whatever) and liberally applying epoxy between layers. Seems to work OK but you couldn't be sure there was no voids.

The problem with using epoxies to fill small voids on a finished handle is, it's quite viscous and very likely to have tiny air bubbles in it. I suspect those dang bubbles would stick out like a sore thumb. The pro's use high-end CA (not dime-store super-glue) for a reason.

EDIT: jdm61, if the wood was truly stabilized, putting any kind of finish on it shouldn't matter much. No offense to you or your vendor, just saying that I've have similar experiences with "stabilized" wood and I've gotten a bit cynical about it.
Click to expand...
I wanted it darker.:D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top