Archery/ Bow Hunting Help

tueller

Basic Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2012
Messages
1,295
Hi guys, once again I am reaching out to the community I trust for help.

I have been shotgun/muzzleloader deer hunting for about 3 years (2 bucks). I recently bought a used Hoyt Alphaburner from my friend who has been bow hunting all his life. I think I got a good deal. It has been serviced and came with sights, release, quiver, stabilizer, etc. He told me I pretty much just need to buy arrows and a target.

This is where you guys come in. What are your recommendations on arrows, arrow heads, and a good target for training. I am going to go to bass pro for fitting and to get started on what gear I need. The bow is presently set up with a 28” draw and 70 pound pull. My buddy told me that I will probably want to lower the pull to 60 pounds and go with 27” arrows.

Any help and recommendations will be greatly appreciated.

thanks.
 
I’ve always shot Carbon Express arrows, now they are set up with Blazer vanes.
A Morrell 6 shooter target is great most more experienced bow hunters end up with some kind of Block or throwable target, but the Morrell 6 shooter is very tough to beat for the size and price.
Broad heads are either fixed or mechanical. The few guys I know who shoot fixed shoot Montec. I’ve shot mechanical NAP and Rage.
 
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Thanks that gives me a great place to start researching. I am guessing a block or throwable target is more expensive and that is why you are recommending that I start with a morrel 6. Carbon express looks good I will have to research the blazer vanes part because I have no idea what that is. For a guy that has been shooting guns my whole life it is intimidating jumping into bows. So much info and so little I know. Thanks for the response.
 
I'm guessing that your arrows would come equipped for screw-in broadheads. For most practice you would want plain field points that screw in just like the broadheads do. Then when you get ready to hunt you switch to some practice with broadheads, then you either sharpen the broadheads, put in fresh blades, or hunt with brand new ones that haven't been shot before.

It would be good to lower your peak weight to 60 pounds, or even 50 pounds to start with. Pull the bow back to your anchor position- some people will have the tip of their first finger at the corner of their mouth for instance. Now pull the bow back as far as it will go and make note of how much farther back it will go past your anchor point, this is called "pulling into the stops". Some people like to have their bow adjusted so it hits the stops right at or just beyond their anchor point. Theoretically you are better off with your anchor point an inch or inch and a half short of hitting the stops. Anyway this would give you an idea of what the draw length of the bow should be adjusted to.

Now about arrow length- draw length is usually measured to the face of the bow, the part of the riser that is closest to you. If you are shooting broadheads you want the arrow to extend beyond the back of the riser by enough that you don't cut your fingers with the broadhead, so the arrows are several inches longer than your draw length. And the stiffness of the arrow shaft has to be matched to the arrow length and the maximum bow weight so you need someone very knowledgeable to do that for you.

(I hope I got all the terminology right.)
 
The most important characteristic of Carbon Express is that they are, in my experience, top notch quality. Their straightness tolerance from arrow to arrow is usually within 1/10,000th of an inch, and when you stop to think about that for a second, it's incredible.
 
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