Are ball peen hammer heads symmetrical? (And maybe head ID)

[1215]

I'm about to hang this and have a few quesitons. ID/Vintage?? Was my dad's which means it could be something as new as from the '80s or could be as old as one of my grand father's tools from the 40's or 50's. All I know is that it's been sitting in the same pile for about 25 years.

Wondering if they are symmetrical of if there is a top/bottom to them? I sanded it lightly to clean out the eye and look for a stamp/logo. Couldn't find any markings. Should I worry or just hang the thing and start hitting stuff with it?

Photos:
I dumped it in a vinegar bath since the photos. Was curious to find any markings and didn't really want a ton of rust on it (for what I'll be using it for).

 

[Hickory n steel]

I'm about to hang this and have a few quesitons. ID/Vintage?? Was my dad's which means it could be something as new as from the '80s or could be as old as one of my grand father's tools from the 40's or 50's. All I know is that it's been sitting in the same pile for about 25 years.

Wondering if they are symmetrical of if there is a top/bottom to them? I sanded it lightly to clean out the eye and look for a stamp/logo. Couldn't find any markings. Should I worry or just hang the thing and start hitting stuff with it?

Photos:
I dumped it in a vinegar bath since the photos. Was curious to find any markings and didn't really want a ton of rust on it (for what I'll be using it for).

There can be an actual top and bottom on a ball peen hammer, so I'd take a ruler and measure it.
They can also have a waisted eye where it's wider at the ends then in the middle ( not a huge deal but can make hanging a little hard sometimes )
Chances are that only had a sticker, or stamp on the handle ( later Stanly stuff is like this but always have a bunch of forging seems left on them )

 

[halfaxe]

Looks like some age to it. I would measure the eye and put the larger diameter on top to seat the wedge. If they are the same size then it doesn't matter.

 

[1215]

I shouldn't have asked.... Now I'm really going to need help from the pro's...
This is the second picture in my first post.

^^ Regarding ^^ the photo ^^ above. ^^
Its got a weird casting mark, almost reminds me of the red-handled Plumb stuff with that funky glue. That side measures 17.3mm across (from cheek to cheek). It measures 25mm (24.992) from front to back INSIDE the smooth part of the eye --but opens up to 26.7mm above that lip in the eye. So call it either 17.3mm x25mm or 17.3mm x 26.7.


In the center of the eye it measures a hair over 25mm long (font to back) and 14.75mm wide (cheek to cheek).


On the other side of the eye: (first pic in original post)

It measures 28.17mm long (front to back) and 16.3mm wide (cheek to cheek).

Knowing that this hammer is going to get USED (hopefully VERY USED), do I risk a small front/back gap in the eye by putting the wider (cheek to cheek) part of the haft up top by the kerf wedge... or do I put the haft in the eye whatever way possible so there are no gaps but side to side (cheek to cheek) would get wider (good) but front-to-back would actually taper out from top to bottom of the eye (bad)...

Or do I just let the thing soak in vinegar for a few more hours/days, clean it, file/sand the front & back edges of the eye so they are parallel and be done with it? (I'm thinking this).

EDIT: Either way it is narrower in the center of the eye (maybe call it "at the waist of the eye") than at the ends (top/bottom). I'm OK with making the kerf slot a little bigger so I can pinch it together to fit into the eye, just confused about what to do with the front & back edges & taper. Thx.

EDIT#2: The variances are less than or equal to 1mm. Should I really worry about that? It's a 40oz head...

 

[Hacked]

I wouldn't worry about it too much. If you think you can get a cleaner hang oriented a certain way then I would go for it. Assuming that I understood that the only difference is that small shelf on the one end of the eye and it is otherwise the same diameter throughout.

Love ball peen hammers. I never owned one until recently and I've picked up 3 for a grand total of $4.25 handles and all over the last couple of years. Very useful tools, I'm sure you will put it to good use once fitted to a new handle.

 

[1215]

I wouldn't worry about it too much. If you think you can get a cleaner hang oriented a certain way then I would go for it. Assuming that I understood that the only difference is that small shelf on the one end of the eye and it is otherwise the same diameter throughout.

Love ball peen hammers. I never owned one until recently and I've picked up 3 for a grand total of $4.25 handles and all over the last couple of years. Very useful tools, I'm sure you will put it to good use once fitted to a new handle.

Yeah that's what I was thinking as well. This particular hang I'm just a little nervous about. I really want to get it right. I recently did a workshop/clinic with the local scout troop helping them sort through all of their old camping equipment, saws, lanterns, etc. --and teaching/helping them re-hang almost every hatchet and axe they had. I was asked to help on an upcoming Eagle Scout project and I'm going to need this (and other) hammers to be reliable.

 

[Lieblad]

You will find most hammer eyes are "hourglass or waisted" profile. It wont matter much either way on your specimen.
Just fit the haft to what orientation is easiest. You might use 2 wedges crossed if wood needs expanding both directions.

That ridge inside the eye is remain of the drift what shaped the eye at the forging press.
Its bespeaks of sloppiness of manufacture, but hurts nothing. These hammers were made to beat upon stuff, never intended to have guys over analyize or bestow loving care upon.