Atoma 140 Question

Trout Hound

Trout Hound

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Sep 28, 2014
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Would the Atoma 140 be too coarse to use for rebeveling simple steels, such as 1095, CV, 420HC, etc? I think I remember discussions here in the past about how extra coarse diamond stones can be counter-productive on these types of steel, because they leave the edge too ragged. Was just wondering because I hear so much great stuff about the Atoma, but I don't own any high carbide blades.

Thanks!
 
Trout Hound said:
Would the Atoma 140 be too coarse to use for rebeveling simple steels, such as 1095, CV, 420HC, etc? I think I remember discussions here in the past about how extra coarse diamond stones can be counter-productive on these types of steel, because they leave the edge too ragged. Was just wondering because I hear so much great stuff about the Atoma, but I don't own any high carbide blades.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

No :) Too coarse begins under 100-80 grit :)

As with all coarse stones, as you begin to reach apex (raise burr)
you have to reduce force
also have to use very light force when cutting off burr (double angle)
and microbeveling (in between angle)
light force as in under 100 grams (0.22 lb, 3.5oz)

Its a coarse stone, you can get shaving sharp with it, but its still coarse

Also its diamond so you can't use too much force with it, so if you have a lot of rebeveling to do (thick) ... might take a while :) ...
how much is too much?
I guess everything above 1lb-3lb depending on surface area touching the stone
needle point, 1lb is too much
...
lube helps :)
 
The Atoma 140 eats metal very fast and unless the edge of the knives you need to sharpen is badly damaged then it might be a bit aggressive.

What stones are you using now?
 
Thanks Jason, I figured as much. I've been using a Crystolon for that purpose, and it works just fine. I was thinking about asking Santa for some type of coarse diamond stone, though, and just wanted to check about the Atoma. Lately I've been gravitating towards diamond and ceramic stones, just because they're so darn convenient. They're always ready to go at a moment's notice; no water, oil, or lapping required. Seems to work a little easier for what I need. I'll probably just pick up a DMT Coarse and call it a day.
 
Use the coarse Crystolon for reprofiling, you can really put a lot of force into it without damaging the stone. Use the 140x Atoma for resetting or reapexing the edge, basically this is just coarse grinding until you've reached an apex…. at which point you can begin to consider yourself to be 'sharpening' the edge.
 
Trout Hound said:
Thanks Jason, I figured as much. I've been using a Crystolon for that purpose, and it works just fine. I was thinking about asking Santa for some type of coarse diamond stone, though, and just wanted to check about the Atoma. Lately I've been gravitating towards diamond and ceramic stones, just because they're so darn convenient. They're always ready to go at a moment's notice; no water, oil, or lapping required. Seems to work a little easier for what I need. I'll probably just pick up a DMT Coarse and call it a day.
Click to expand...

I don't know what you have for plates so far but I use the extra coarse more than the coarse. It is my coarsest plate and I have set bevels with it without too much hassle.
I think it is a bit more cash than the coarse so you better be good if Santa is involved. Russ
 
The Atoma 140 is OK for bevel setting. I wouldn't apex with that stone. The 400, sure, but not the 140. However, MaggotBrain is giving great advice. When lots of pressure is required, and bevel setting can demand some pressure....diamond stones are not the best choice. You'll likely damage diamond stones when using high pressure. They're meant to allow the diamonds to do the work. Cheapo SiC or Crystolons.....check!

I used to think the same thing....get a low grit diamond plate to do serious geometry setting and corrections. Not really the best choice for that. I can say the Sigma Power 120 is an awesome stone for that chore, but that stone requires some care during use. Loads pretty easy. Bought a Naniwa Eco 120, using it with oil. Fast cutter, but dishes very easily.

I find myself going to used sanding belts at 80 grit to do many bevel sets. Cut 'em, spread it out on flat surface, lock it in place with clamps, and go to town! 4"x36" of 80 grit abrasive....makes bevel setting trivial.
 
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Depends on what you do with them, I wore one out in 6 months using it for lapping and sharpening. I used it on some 150 and 220 stones that I shouldn't have and I'm fairly sure that killed it. It's one of the reasons I no longer recommend using a diamond plate on waterstones below 320 grit. I've heard of other professionals wearing them out in about a year but I have yet to purchase a replacement, I use my Shapton Glass Lapping Plate now and usually prefer coarse stones for setting bevels. For the average knife user I'm sure this plate could have an easy 5-10 year life with proper use.
 
samuraistuart said:
The Atoma 140 is OK for bevel setting. I wouldn't apex with that stone. The 400, sure, but not the 140. However, MaggotBrain is giving great advice. When lots of pressure is required, and bevel setting can demand some pressure....diamond stones are not the best choice. You'll likely damage diamond stones when using high pressure. They're meant to allow the diamonds to do the work. Cheapo SiC or Crystolons.....check!

I used to think the same thing....get a low grit diamond plate to do serious geometry setting and corrections. Not really the best choice for that. I can say the Sigma Power 120 is an awesome stone for that chore, but that stone requires some care during use. Loads pretty easy. Bought a Naniwa Eco 120, using it with oil. Fast cutter, but dishes very easily.

I find myself going to used sanding belts at 80 grit to do many bevel sets. Cut 'em, spread it out on flat surface, lock it in place with clamps, and go to town! 4"x36" of 80 grit abrasive....makes bevel setting trivial.
Click to expand...

I think Luong (bluntcut) does the same thing. I believe blaze belts are what he used, pretty quick work... Russ
 
Trout Hound said:
I'll probably just pick up a DMT Coarse and call it a day.
Click to expand...

Someone else already said it, but it's worth repeating: The DMT C is "coarse", but it's not super coarse. It's around 325 grit compared to around 100 grit for the coarse Crystolon you have. You'd be going backwards if you were looking for something more aggressive than the Crystolon.

Don't get me wrong: I really like the DMT C. It's just not a stone I'd use for big bevel setting or reprofiling tasks. I'd reach for the DMT XXC. Or power tools.

Brian.
 
Jason B. said:
Depends on what you do with them, I wore one out in 6 months using it for lapping and sharpening. I used it on some 150 and 220 stones that I shouldn't have and I'm fairly sure that killed it. It's one of the reasons I no longer recommend using a diamond plate on waterstones below 320 grit. I've heard of other professionals wearing them out in about a year but I have yet to purchase a replacement, I use my Shapton Glass Lapping Plate now and usually prefer coarse stones for setting bevels. For the average knife user I'm sure this plate could have an easy 5-10 year life with proper use.
Click to expand...
Thanks. What's your go to bevel setter? It sounds like your atoma doesn't see much action any more.
 
If I need something really coarse I have my Shapton Glass 120 that's getting used currently, or a no-name 140 grit diamond plate that I've about worn out. My big brick Imanishi 220 or Nubatama 150 only see duty on wide bevels such as Japanese traditional knives, it's where they work best so I leave them to that task. Harder and less muddy stones are my preference.

Truthfully, I don't use a very coarse stone all that much my SG500 or SP320 see the most use. If bevels are real bad I usually take them to the belts first for some bulk removal.
 
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