Atoma Stones

[IH_784]

Good afternoon,

I’m going to buy a set of atoma Stones to sharpen M390. What grits do I need? I’ll not be flattening other Stones with these. I’ve read conflicting information about not needing to go as high grit wise with this steel. Can someone tell me what works definitively? 600 and 1200 or a 400 and 800? Or higher?

Thank you!

 

[Blues]

There is no definitive answer...it depends if you prefer a coarser or finer edge. Coarser excels at slicing...finer at push cutting as a very general rule.

Many folks like to put a coarse edge on and do a couple swipes with a fine hone to give a bit of the best of both worlds.

All four grits have have their uses.

 

[Blues]

Let's move this thread to the area where you'll be bombarded with all the information you could want...and more...

 

[IH_784]

I’d greatly appreciate it. I didn’t see another sub forum it fit in. Thank you for your replies!

 

[UncleBoots]

If we're talking about a pocketknife, the 400 Atoma will put a useful coarse toothy edge on it, and the 800 (didn't actually know there was an 800 Atoma) will produce a toothy, but somewhat refined edge. Either is nice, but the 800 edge seems more suited to the steel. If you want a fine edge, it will take that too. So there is no wrong answer to your question.

I've heard that the Spyderco CBN plate is 400 on one side and 800 on the other, and you may want to consider that as an option. It's a really nice plate, and cheaper than two Atomas, last I checked.

 

[shane45-1911]

Yup, Blues has it right. All grits have a purpose - we just don't know what yours is.

For me and my uses (typically field/camp/general usage), I don't usually sharpen any of my blades past 600 grit now. I used to like the mirror finish of 1200+ grit edge, but I found two reasons why I stopped sharpening beyond 600. And this applies to any steel for any knife I currently use - not just M390.

First, after I have spent an hour putting a mirror edge on a blade (sometimes as high as 8000 grit), I became obsessed with keeping it blemish-free, to the point I was hesitant to use it for anything beyond cutting an errant thread or opening a letter with it.

And second, I have found with the tasks I usually use a knife for, an edge beyond 600 grit doesn't stay that way very long - regardless of steel type or edge profile. A 1200 grit edge becomes a 600 grit edge very quickly when out out in the bush dressing game, or cutting kindling, or general camp use.

Again, these are just my experiences and opinions however. You may want/need a high grit edge, and may not mind the maintenance that goes along with keeping it that way.

 

[IH_784]

This sounds EXACTLY what I need to do because it sounds just like me. I completely understand having something nice and wanting to keep it that way. I’ll be looking at a 600 grit atoma.

 

[shane45-1911]

This sounds EXACTLY what I need to do because it sounds just like me. I completely understand having something nice and wanting to keep it that way. I’ll be looking at a 600 grit atoma.

600 is indeed the sweet spot (for me). And make no mistake - a properly sharpened 600 grit edge is plenty sharp, and will still shave hair off your arm. And it is quick to touch up and bring back to 600 again after some use.

 

[Blues]

Yup, Blues has it right. All grits have a purpose - we just don't know what yours is.

For me and my uses (typically field/camp/general usage), I don't usually sharpen any of my blades past 600 grit now. I used to like the mirror finish of 1200+ grit edge, but I found two reasons why I stopped sharpening beyond 600. And this applies to any steel for any knife I currently use - not just M390.

First, after I have spent an hour putting a mirror edge on a blade (sometimes as high as 8000 grit), I became obsessed with keeping it blemish-free, to the point I was hesitant to use it for anything beyond cutting an errant thread or opening a letter with it.

And second, I have found with the tasks I usually use a knife for, an edge beyond 600 grit doesn't stay that way very long - regardless of steel type or edge profile. A 1200 grit edge becomes a 600 grit edge very quickly when out out in the bush dressing game, or cutting kindling, or general camp use.

Again, these are just my experiences and opinions however. You may want/need a high grit edge, and may not mind the maintenance that goes along with keeping it that way.

600 is indeed the sweet spot (for me). And make no mistake - a properly sharpened 600 grit edge is plenty sharp, and will still shave hair off your arm. And it is quick to touch up and bring back to 600 again after some use.

This is especially true for shane45-1911 because he has poltergeists in his home that dull his blades when he is sleeping or not paying attention.

Imagine having invested all that work in a stunning, dazzling mirror edge bevel only to have some misanthropic creature or phantasm gleefully destroy it.

Yep...there's wisdom in extolling the joys of coarser edges.

(In case it's not clear, I agree with Shane. No need to chase the higher grit finish unless it serves a specific purpose, or you just enjoy them for any of a number of reasons, from aesthetic to utilitarian.)

 

[HeavyHanded]

Good afternoon,

I’m going to buy a set of atoma Stones to sharpen M390. What grits do I need? I’ll not be flattening other Stones with these. I’ve read conflicting information about not needing to go as high grit wise with this steel. Can someone tell me what works definitively? 600 and 1200 or a 400 and 800? Or higher?

Thank you!

Get the 140, 400, 1200. Generally speaking if there is a single one you could skip in my opinion it is the 600. The 400 is a good stone but not coarse enough to do a lot of reprofiling or repair. IMHO the 140 is the BEST extra coarse diamond plate on the market. The 400 can easily follow it and the 1200 is a good plate for microbevel after the 400 which allows you to customize the edge a bit. The 400 is also rough enough to do reset on a dull edge that is already at a good angle.

If determined to only get two plates pick up the 140 and get the PSA backed 600, make a combination plate out of it. The 600 makes a respectable edge on its own. You won't need the 140 very often, but it is incredibly useful to have around.