AUS8-Molybdenum/Vanadium

L

longbow

Joined
Jan 9, 1999
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Anyone have any idea what the performance of this steel is? Does all AUS8 contain vanadium? It is used in a Hattori hunting knife. Any info is appreciated. keepem sharp
 
I had a spanish Meula (???) fixed blade for about 18 years that was adverstised as Molybdenum/Vanadium steel and it was easy to sharpen and help it's edge very well. I actually beat the crap out of that knife, hacking tree limbs and cleaning small game and fish, chopping bone. When I cleaned out some old knives and sold them in a yard sale, that blade didn't have any surface left that wasn't scratched, but was still going strong.
 
Yes, all AUS8 contains vanadium.

Some are not pleased by it some are. Guess it depends on the manufacturer. There was a topic here about Benchmades AUS8 blades considering the advertised hardness. It seems like Benchmade runs their AUS8 at a "premium class" hardness HRC 59 - 60. Guess, others left it around 58 HRC.

Maybe the softer examples are the reason for the dissatisfaction. I never heard any good or bad about BMs AUS8 edge performance.

Don´t know which models are on your mind. If it is a Benchmade red line model, i think you can´t go wrong.

If you want to know better, buy two knifes. One from CRKT and the other from Benchmade and look if there is a remarkable difference in toughness and edge holding.

Most knives with that steel are affordable, so for a personal experience, why not.

But again, i don´t know, which knife you are after. My speech is based on prices around $50,00 for each.
 
Note that the percentage of vanadium is very small and is there to prevent grain growth during the soak than to actually form vanadium carbides in the secondary hardening temper as with steels like 10V. Thus don't expect it to have significantly enhanced wear resistance.

AUS-8A is usually regarded as a second class stainless in regards to cutting ability as it is softer and weaker than the ATS-34 class steels, and for similar reasons sometimes gets a nod as a better hard work steel for durability reasons. Benchmades upper level hardness would make an interesting comparison reference.

-Cliff
 
The Cold Steel stainless Master Hunter is made of AUS-8. That's been my primary hunting knife for some years now and I find it a very good steel , holding an edge well [to do a deer completely from dressing out to butchering without sharpening]
 
The Master Hunter is a great knife. I have one too. These are probably one of the better offerings from CS right now and certainly worthy of high praise.

I really like the little Pendleton Hunter also. I've also been thinking of buying the Ultimate Hunter folder. Looks like it would fit the hand like a glove to me.

As for the AUS8. It is a good steel for hard use I think. I've really seen it take a lot in my Vaquero Grande and Voyager beater user knives. We use the Vaquero Grande for yard work all the time for cutting back vines and branches and it has never failed to perform. Of course it is fully serrated which helps but the point is it is several years old now and showing signs that it has been beaten and used but still performs like it did when bought.
 
So I guess my question is that Hattori's AUS8 is the same as other manufactur'ers AUS8? Not enough vanadium really to form the carbides anyways. keepem sharp
 
AUS8 is a very good cutlery steel, IMHO, at least in my Voyagers. Highly stain resistant, tough, takes an excellent edge and holds it well, and is relatively easy to sharpen on diamond hones. Not as good edge holding as ATS-34 or VG-10, but overall a good compromise.
 
STR said:
As for the AUS8. It is a good steel for hard use I think. I've really seen it take a lot in my Vaquero Grande and Voyager beater user knives. We use the Vaquero Grande for yard work all the time for cutting back vines and branches and it has never failed to perform. Of course it is fully serrated which helps but the point is it is several years old now and showing signs that it has been beaten and used but still performs like it did when bought.
Click to expand...

STR, have you had to sharpen the serrations yet? I assume that you have. If so, what do you use? If not, that's quite impressive performance.
 
Actually on that particular Vaquero I have not ever once sharpened it. I probably need to. I have sharpened others though. The Nogales recurved blade makes this knife cut even if the edge is all dinge up. It just slices and slices and never stops.

As to what I use for sharpening: With my background in dental I have access to many small fine and super fine diamond burrs that are used to grind teeth in dental procedures. Mounting one of these in a hand held chuck and using it as a sharpener has worked better than anything else I've ever tried for sharpening serrations. Please note: I'm not using the motor to spin these when I use them. I just use the chuck of my Foredom dremmel to hold the burr for me and use it with the motor off. The best Premier Two Striper Super Fine diamond in a taper cone type shape does the trick. If you can't get a dental one just go to Lowes in the dremmel dept. and get the fine and med ones there and use those. They all work. I just prefer the super fine personally. These are small enough to fit nicely in the serrations to straighten up the edges and they cut fast and accurately so it isn't a lot of hassle at all.
 
Get your hands on the Lansky "Cold Steel" dog bone type ceramic (about $5) ... makes very quick work of the serrated Voyagers. Very fast, very easy. Work the scallops carefully, then one or two strokes on the back side ... extremely sharp and workable. Mine stay sharp forever ... have gone thru 2 cow Elk and a Mule deer buck and now, finally, have to sharpen mine again, lol.
 
I think that the japanese add occationally some elements to the makup of AUS-8. I remember Spyderco's AUS-8W which contained added Tungsten. As far as I remember it was used only Spyderco's "sushi" knife (japanese style but shorter). If I remember further correctly, the W reduced the wear resistance a bit but gave the steel an unsurpassed sharpenability. I recall that Sal once said that he was given a knife made from that steel with instructions to fold a piece of rice paper to lay it on the edge and blow it over the edge and it would be cut by the time it reached the tip of the blade....:eek:
 
Buy industry definition the steel is very similar in composition or it couldn't be called by a certain name. However the heat treatment, grind, etc. can vary greatly and are more important in making a good working knife that the type of steel in many cases.

Here is some info about steel. AUS10 is about like 440C which I like. AUS8 is just a bit down the list, less carbon, no great shakes!

http://www.ajh-knives.com/metals.html

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=368828
 
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