AUSA-8 pros/cons?

B

Brooks Brown

Joined
Feb 12, 2003
Messages
13
I don't own too many knives yrt but they consist mainly of two steels. 154cm amd AUSA 8. I read a lot of traffic on high end steels but wonder where does AUSA 8 fit in? Is it a decent steel? How does it compare to the "sexier" steels out there? What are its pros / cons? Is it field / self defense worthy?
 
i've had several knives made of aus8 and it is probably my favorite steel. It takes a good edge and holds it well, of course it depends on the hardness used by the maker. personally i can't think of any problems, as far as self defense worthy no problem. as you can tell i like it. later, ahgar
 
The only problem I have had with this steel, is that sometimes it can be hard to get rid of the burr/wire edge. I have only had this problem with a couple of the knives that I own so it might be just the knives that I have.

Other than that I think that it is a very good steel, I have never had any corrosion issues with it and it seems to keep an edge reasonably long.

Bruceter
 
My experience with AUS-8A has been pretty good. It's often compared to 440C, but I would give the nod to 440C overall. But 8A seems a better steel than 440A or 440B.

Here's a review of AUS-8A vs. VG-10 and D2:

http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/knives/deerhunters.html

Note the 8A blade is only hardened to 57/59 RC, the VG-10 and D2 60/62. Factoring that in the 8A does pretty well, IMO, especially for a steel that's often available in very reasonably priced knives.
 
I've found AUS 8 to be a good compromise on everything, all things considered. For a good knife blade, you want a blade that's:

= 1. Easy to sharpen

= 2. Holds an edge

= 3. Is tough and not brittle

= 4. Resists corrosion

AUS 8A isn't the best in any of these areas, but it's very good in all of these areas, where other stainless steels may be very good to excellent in some areas and only good or poor in other areas.

420HC, for example, resists corrosion and is easy to sharpen; it's also tough; however, it has inferior in edge retention, which is a big factor with a lot of people.

440A-C is, as expected, somewhere between 420 and AUS 8. The latter will likely hold an edge better and is about as tough. A really good 440C will be on a par with good AUS 8, I think. Even so, I believe it's more probable that you'll find a good AUS 8 when knife shopping than a good 440C.

ATS-34/154CM are clearly premium steels, but are not as rust resistant as AUS 8A and can be more brittle. AUS 8 is probably easier to sharpen in the field and will likely take a sharper edge. Quite often a fine serrated edge on an AUS 8 blade will negate the edge retention characteristics of the ATS-34. If you use your knife to pry or do rough work with, the AUS 8 may hold up a bit better; however, the ATS-34 is clearly a better steel, albeit more expensive.

Again, all things considered, AUS 8 is probably a "very good" steel in all the above respects. It won't be the best steel in any category, but you'll get some strength in all areas.

If anyone disagrees, have at it.
 
My experience with AUS-8 is years using Cold Steel Master Hunter as primary hunting knife. The knife is excellent ,well designed ,very practical ,recommended by many.The blade is easy to sharpen, holds an edge well , not brittle , doesn't corrode. Not a fancy steel but very good !!!
 
I have a Kabar Dozier in aus8a. It is one of my favorite knives. Like they said above : easy to sharpen, holds an edge well, and Doesn't easly rust. For the price I spent on mine; it was a win in my book.
 
I get the 440C comparison, fully.

Like 440C, its quality is highly heat treat dependent (like all steels, really).

Me, I'm tired of dealing with the burring, dulling, etc. No longer on my "will consider" list for either steel.
 
orthogonal1 said:
I'm tired of dealing with the burring, dulling, etc. No longer on my "will consider" list for either steel.
Click to expand...
Just out of curiosity, what do you use your knives for that would make AUS 8 or 440C dull quickly or burr?

Also, does anyone know how good the quality of 440C in Colt knives is? I've read some pretty good things about 440C, yet very few knife companies use it anymore. Is it that 440A has gotten better or is it just a fact that it's cheaper?

AUS 8 in some Cold Steel knives is morphing into VG-1 steel. But is VG-1 a better steel, really, or is it a marketing gimmack?
 
My Kershaw Echo is AUS 8A & takes a wicked edge. It's my fave small blade.
My Timberline Zambezi 6" is 440C & about as sweet a knife as I've ever owned.
They are very close in hardness/sharpness etc..you cannot lose with either grade!!
 
Confederate - I should have stated the suspect heat treatment (something I'm beginning to question more and more in knives, but how do you tell before use). I did cut the usual stuff found about an industrial/constuction enviroment (I recently became "white collar"). Various plastics, synthetic hoses, gasket materials, etc. Plus scraping, wires, tubing.

It seems to me, that the 440C knives of the 80's and early 90's were better. Similiarly, AUS8 seems to have been better in the late 90's, early 00's. (feel free to play a bit with the numbers, as most of the knives I've dealt with moved on (or I was sharpening for someone with even less of a clue than me) and I don't record exact data on them)

Similiarly, one of the best ATS 34 knives I've dealt with was a Gerber Gator (as well as a 440C knife from Gerber was a rememberably pleasant sharpener with good retention).

Sometimes a great steel is let down by heat treat, and the more popular the steel, the more this is likely to occur (so I hypothesize, though I suspect intended treatment variations play a big part - how certain makers want to do it).
 
Yeah, I've noticed the same thing. Most modern 440Cs don't seem to live up to 440C reputation; however, I've used a lot of CRKT and Cold Steel AUS 8s and they seem to do okay.

I've said this on other threads, but I've found a good testing material is that heavy plastic packaging that seems to engulf products these days. Everything's sealed in and there's a hole for the peg. I've seen some lightweight "junk" blades from Gerber's Paraframe slip 'n slide over that packaging and only put a few scratches in it, while higher grade steels have no problem slicing through it. Using light 400-series and 420j2 blades can get you hurt, but AUS 8 will cut it asunder, both left and right.
 
Yea, that heavy plastic packaging can test a blade.

The last few CS knives I've dealt with in AUS8 were good (except one that had really been sharpened - guess-timate at least a 1/4 in from new). But they still had a tendency to build up a good sized burr.

Me, for my own purchases, am no longer interested in dealing with steels that need that bit of finesse a strong burr requires to sharpen properly. I just want to hit the stones, develope the edge, and be done. No stropping, changing the angle to knock the burr off, etc. Paper cutting/shaving sharp is sufficient. And let it last through a few boxes.
 
I dont mind AUS-8 at all, i have 2-3 knives with it.

Holds up well for me, touches up great.



It was asked why the steel is not up to par, and you have said it dulls and aquires a burr during sharpening as an answer to that statement you made that the steel is not worthy for you.

So i wonder, what steels you found that don't dull, and get a burr from being sharpened?

I guess i dont own that steel yet myself.


WR
 
I like 8A. Among the group of steels that's less expensive and a touch softer than ATS-34 & the like, 8A is among my faves.
 
WarRaven - its a comparison thing. All steels dull in use, as we all know. And its the noticeability of a burr I refer to. As has been noted here, forming a burr is generally part of the sharpening process, but how noticeable? How tenacious?

Some steels, depending on heat treat (apparently, as I've owned knives of the purported same steel that sharpened differently), seem to form a more prominent burr than others.

My current faves are a couple of BM M2 (I've got one that seems a bit "softer" than the others and does form a rather more solid burr), an Ingam D2, a Spyderco S30V Military, and a Boye BDS. I even like an AUS8 (San Mai from the 80's is reportedly AUS8) CS Shinobo, as a recent thread reminded me to use it a bit.

A noticeable slight burr can form when I sharpen them, but the next opposite side sharpening stroke generally removes it. None of the back and forth "flopping" that I've experienced on some knives.

I also wonder if the sharpeners I'm using these days has an affect. I used natural stones years ago, but have switched to ceramics now. I wouldn't think it would make a big difference, but my time here makes realize that all things are not equal. Maybe my technique hasn't changed enough, as I adapt with time to new info.

It's not a matter of "worthy," it's a matter of what I'm willing to spend the money to get. Some individuals spend based upon looks, based upon steel, based upon whatever arbitrary thing they choose. I look at the metal of a blade as a major consideration. I don't need any new pocket knives unless I have a new nitch to fill (office wear now).

I'm fully cognizant that even some of todays less expensive steels are great in comparison to what was available a few decades ago. Similiarly, I realize that 1095 can still be used to create a great knife.
 
Its not the perfect steel but, is pretty darn good! I have two knives made with AUS8 & would buy more again over the 420HC crapola! JMHO.:thumbup:
 
Joe Talmadge said:
I like 8A. Among the group of steels that's less expensive and a touch softer than ATS-34 & the like, 8A is among my faves.
Click to expand...

Have you worked with Benchmade's?

-Cliff
 
Right on, thanks for the clarification on that.

Stung by the lust for fine grain steels, totally allowed.

Still Aus8, is decent.


Cliff, why, Did you ask JoeT that, Curious more then anything?
Is thiers(Benchmades) heat treat Vs Kabars/Doziers heat treats different big time or something?

Tis

WR
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top