Awl recommendation

mccandmatt

mccandmatt

Joined
Oct 29, 2013
Messages
358
I picked up an awl from Tandy for like $17 due to getting tired of the thin drill bits going in right where I want them, but coming out somewhere else and pushing the leather out on the other side. So I decided to do it like in the handbook with an awl, the result was much better and to be honest did not take much longer at all. However, the diamond awl I picked up is far from decent, first it pushed in deeper to the handle, then it came out completely and I epoxied it back in to the wood, this happened going through 3 layers unglued 6/7 oz. so I am just looking for a recommendation on a good quality awl. I might just make one myself but getting the rhombus/diamond shape could be a little tricky, rather buy one to make sure it's right.

Advanced thanks for any advice!

Matt
 
Apparently new awls come a bit rough and you have to get them into shape yourself. Here are some videos of different ways of accomplishing this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvY9beqObiQ

this one is in french, but the videography is pretty good:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ni8a2Wi1z4w



mccandmatt said:
I might just make one myself but getting the rhombus/diamond shape could be a little tricky, rather buy one to make sure it's right.
Click to expand...


I made my own using a plywood jig:



Basically cut a piece of plywood into a diamond shape with a hole perfectly down the middle to hold the rod in place (wooden dowel used for picture purposes). You cover the rod with permanent marker and grind away material equally on each face of the rod until you get a tiny sliver of marker left on each corner. Then you finish the point with a file and wet/dry paper. And finally, you polish it on a buffing wheel.

I made mine from 1/8" music wire from the hobby shop (less than $2 for 36"). It is high carbon steel that can be easily annealed and heat treated.

I guessed the ratio of the narrow to wide width of the awl to be around 1:1.5 to 1:1.6.


Hope this helps
 
That does help a lot, thanks a ton for the advice I will have to get started on that. good idea with the jig
 
I had the same problem as you with awls, till I found a CS Osborne. Finally one that puts up with my abuse!

Mine is this one, http://www.csosborne.com/no143.htm but they offer a few different styles.

The blade itself always needs help to get it to where it slides through the leather. I do a lot of work on the stones and a lot more on the leather strop before I can use it. Keep it away from anything that can harm it or it from you because once its sharp it will slip in your thumb deep before you know whats happening. :p
 
Which awl blade is preferred for leather sheath stitching holes. Osborn lists two types, #43-52 (leather awl) or the #54-59 (stitching awl)? The leather awl looks a bit beefier then the stitching awl. I'm just starting out crafting sheaths and I found out you have to be careful on the sideways pressure, mine broke halfway threw my first sheath.
Thanks, John
 
Awl right, time for the stupid question part of the thread…

Are you tapping the awl thru the three layers of leather with a mallet or pushing it thru by hand?
 
When in doubt always go with the beefier blade, the leather awl blade looks like the one I use, its more inclined to rough use.

The handle I put the link up for is intended for both hand use and tapping with a soft mallet (rawhide or plastic) I like the multi-tasker. I've used it both ways, no one way more than the other.
 
Thanks, I'll get the beefier blade. I think I will enjoy making sheaths for myself, this forum is really helpful. When I create something to be proud of I will post a picture here.
John
 
post anything you make and get feedback on it, no one will insult you, they might be honest but that will only help you make your next one all that much better
 
Yes! Honesty is best when getting help with your craft. Everyone telling you it looks cool and nice feels good, but it does not teach a darn thing. But, always make it clear your looking for constructive criticism, some budding makers honestly dont want to hear about where to improve their work and thats fine and dandy. If you dont want to move ahead that is. :)
 
leatherman said:
Yes! Honesty is best when getting help with your craft. Everyone telling you it looks cool and nice feels good, but it does not teach a darn thing. But, always make it clear your looking for constructive criticism, some budding makers honestly dont want to hear about where to improve their work and thats fine and dandy. If you dont want to move ahead that is. :)
Click to expand...


I agree with you , but I for example don't feel I have the knowledge or experience to really comment on technical things in regards to other peoples sheath making .
There are quite a few here that do have that knowledge and I do take on board their comments and suggestions .
This is a great place to help further your skills if you take the time to research and ask questions .
It has really helped me over the last few months .

Ken
 
harronek said:
I agree with you , but I for example don't feel I have the knowledge or experience to really comment on technical things in regards to other peoples sheath making .
There are quite a few here that do have that knowledge and I do take on board their comments and suggestions .
This is a great place to help further your skills if you take the time to research and ask questions .
It has really helped me over the last few months .

Ken
Click to expand...

Ken I feel the same way in both making knives and sheaths, I feel that my knowledge is so minuscule that I do not have the right to really critique on peoples work yet. I will offer some advice from time to time but it is on trivial things like "How do I plug in my cordless drill??" thats more my level of expertise :D
 
I always thought that showing your work was in invitation to critique without having to ask deliberately for it.

As long as the critique is tactfully done, a mature adult should welcome them.


If you want a pat on the head, just show your mother.
 
Very good to see this trend. Way too many times I've seen advice offered and either ignored or outright questioned.

Got a rude response at a local knife show, the fellow's sheaths had what looked like mink oil buried in all the cuts and divots. I simply said that he could use a stiff toothbrush to get that residue out of it. The look of incredulous dismay I got was priceless. How dare I? He didn't even respond. I came back the next day and nothing, not very professional from a master smith.
 
Some people get a bad case of the big head syndrome and think there is only one way to do something and that's their way. That and some people cannot take criticism at all.
 
As mentioned above out of my testing when I still hand stitched items I used an Osborn Awl, I keep a Tandy cheapy around for poking through things and abusing but it's crap. I've been reprofiling on it on my belt sander over the time when I bend the tip(the Tandy). Keep in mind an Awl like a needle is a consumable, how long it lasts will depend on sharpening and amount of use.

A trick I did because I was never good enough at keeping my awl perfectly flat 90 degree's from my material and any deflection of course is amplified through thicker welts. I would chuck the awl in a drill press, DO NOT TURN IT ON, just use the press to keep the material in line with the tip, make sure it's angled properly then drive the awl using the press handle. You will wear the springs in the press out after a few years of constant use but they last pretty well. This was the best way I found to get very consistent hand stitching without wearing out my hands as much. Near the end of my hand stitching I'd just pull my thread from my machine running a large enough awl needle and stitch a holster without thread punching all the holes then go back and stitch it up worked well but was very hard to get consistency compared to doing it in a press. The press let's you work very slow and get every hole perfectly lined up.

Also for other guys reading this, an awl is the right tool for stitching, I know some guys drill holes and are happy with it but an awl does a better job. It doesn't remove material so it closes better, looks more consistent and makes a stronger stitch that will last longer. If your going to take the time to build something do it the best way and you'll always be happier with the end results. Just for instance, stitching takes the same amount of time basically to do it right vs. wrong, but the results will reflect which route you took. You can use cheap thread, but it takes the same amount of time and just doesn't hold up as well. Same goes for leather quality but that's another topic all together;) Generally get the right tool, and the best materials you can afford.

Luke
 
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