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AX SHARPENING WITH POWER TOOLS

R

Ripshin Lumberjack

Joined
Sep 17, 2014
Messages
120
Hello everyone

I've posted on BladeForums in the past about sharpening axes with power tools. I have found a video on YouTube that will probably interest lots and lots of axemen.

Please go to YouTube and watch axe sharpening with power tools Hoffman Black Smithing.

I have used a cheap, cheap Harbor Freight 1" belt grinder for years and have never got a blade hot to the point of ruining the heat treat on the cutting edge. Mr. Hoffman has a professional grinder that I sure do wish that I could justify purchasing for my axe hobby. I am a insurance agent.

Many people who first read my post were, I believe, upset with the idea of power tools. Maybe this video will help.

ripshin
 
Hi Square_peg

I again watched the video and Mr. Hoffman is grinding after heat treat. I love this video and just wish that I could justify buying the professional belt sander he has in his shop. I have a hobby and he has a business.

ripshin
 
The logical labour-saving extension of promoting/encouraging power tools to quickly/effortlessly sharpen axes is merely to invest in a chainsaw. My local small engine shop offers a saw chain sharpening service. For $10-15 you get an automated rotary tool sharpened uniformly ground chain back within 15 minutes. Three or four of these 'make-overs' and it becomes time to invest in a new chain. Me, on the other hand, judiciously using hand files get sharper edges and many more years out of a chain. I would think the same goes for an axe.
 
Too many otherwise clueless people just repeat something they read online what they percieved as "voice of authority".

Understand the process & Nothing wrong with using powertools.

Said that, only time I use powered grinding, I am changing profile or recovering a badly neglected or damaged tool.
I use powered polish & stropping always.
 
Once someone completely understands how to sharpen an axe the proper way, and becomes proficient at the task, I see nothing wrong with skilled, and understanding hands using power tools to properly sharpen an axe.

I think, Mr Hoffman does a great job describing the power tool sharpening process, and the things to watch for. But again, don't put the cart before the horse..
 
well, unless it doesnt need it, i always use an angle grinder, after that i file it because it doesnt need work after that. "grinder-sharping' as i call it only ruins the blade if you're inexperienced, obviously use the right grit for the right job. the only power tools i'd use for an edge are my palm sander and my sandstone wheel, either work fantastic without taking out too much metal, certainly less than filing. bottom line, dont sharpen with a grinder. either a file or something really fine-gritted
 
Fresh belts and a light touch with rapid passes are the key. And it's best to only use power grinding when the damage/blunting is bad enough to warrant it, simply as a best management practice. Exposing the axe to fewer incidences of risk just helps ensure that the chances of something going awry are as low as feasibly possible.

Personally I tend to cringe at the use of angle grinders, even with flap discs, on hardened steel because the rate of wear that most angle grinder abrasives are made for is much too slow and causes rapid heat buildup, and then if you're not bearing down hard you're not exposing fresh grit. If an angle grinder is used, non-woven fiber discs and PSA sanding discs tend to do pretty well at keeping the metal as cool as possible, but using a belt grinder tends to be best for high-speed dry grinding as there's a greater variety of belts available that allows you to choose the right kind of abrasive for the work you're doing.

I usually set my bevels on the grinder and blend in the cheeks on the contact wheel, but after that edge wears I'll just take a puck or file to it unless I get a real bad ding.
 
quinton said:
It's hard to make angles starting with 800 grit.
Click to expand...

Sure, but you can't even make much of an edge at all if you don't understand the shape you're trying to make. If 800 grit was all you had, as long as you knew geometry you could still end up getting it where it needed to be even if it took you a year. ;) I'm not saying it's unimportant to understand grit progression (and at it's basest level it's really kind of obvious--what feels rougher?) but sharpening is shaping and if you don't understand the shape you're trying to make, you can't make that shape. :)
 
I agree with 42blades. First of all, you should have a working knowledge of what you are trying to accomplish. Not as in "get this thing sharp", but as in "get rid of damage, have these two planes intersect...they do when you feel a burr; now go to the oher side and repeat. Deburr." It is only at this point that I care about the next grit :), my edge may already shave off of a very coarse, first abrasive.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
Personally I tend to cringe at the use of angle grinders, even with flap discs, on hardened steel because the rate of wear that most angle grinder abrasives are made for is much too slow and causes rapid heat buildup, and then if you're not bearing down hard you're not exposing fresh grit. If an angle grinder is used, non-woven fiber discs and PSA sanding discs tend to do pretty well at keeping the metal as cool as possible, but using a belt grinder tends to be best for high-speed dry grinding as there's a greater variety of belts available that allows you to choose the right kind of abrasive for the work you're doing.
Click to expand...
well im kinda limited to the "$40 and under" section in harbor freight. i disagree with your statement about flap disks, a cheap, fine grit flap disk will do grit progression for you ;) but i get why you cringe, an angle grinder is a sign of an amatuer. well, amatuer i am but i now enough to make a fine tool. secondly, i use flap disks because it makes a smooth convex instead of several tiny hollows that need to be stoned out. lastly, heat management is something you learn quick when your first grinder was a bench grinder so thats never been much of a problem for me, normally i just fill a 2 liter and cool off the head when i think its too hot
 
phantomknives said:
well im kinda limited to the "$40 and under" section in harbor freight. i disagree with your statement about flap disks, a cheap, fine grit flap disk will do grit progression for you ;) but i get why you cringe, an angle grinder is a sign of an amatuer. well, amatuer i am but i now enough to make a fine tool. secondly, i use flap disks because it makes a smooth convex instead of several tiny hollows that need to be stoned out. lastly, heat management is something you learn quick when your first grinder was a bench grinder so thats never been much of a problem for me, normally i just fill a 2 liter and cool off the head when i think its too hot
Click to expand...

I didn't say anything about grit progression as far as flap discs are concerned. I said that they wear in a way that induces a lot of friction heat instead of cutting cool. If going with the "$40 and under Harbor Freight" route then get a foam backing pad and some PSA sanding discs. They generally cut cooler than flap discs and you get even better contour-hugging ability. Flap discs work best on unhardened steel (like mild steel) or non-ferrous metals where you don't need to worry about overheating. PSA sanding discs are still cheap (and I just checked Harbor Freight--they have tons of them and the backing pads to go with 'em) and you can just peel them off and slap a new one on whenever the abrasive wears out/off.
 
I use a 2x72 for all sorts of beveling work, but I ALWAYS put the final edge on by hand.
 
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