Axe, Crosscut, or Bull Saw?

M

M118LR

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Feb 23, 2018
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I've got two felled oak trees dropped in thirty foot pieces that I need to buck or crosscut into 24 inch lengths for use in the fireplace. Now once the slices are 24 inches long I figure either the 6lb swampers axe or the 4lb splitting axe can go to work. So would you buck up the 30 footers with an axe, crosscut, or Bull Saw? If so what type? ( IE Single bit Jersey or Michigan, Tuttle Tooth Crosscut, 4T or 9T Bull Saw) Note my longest bladed chain saw is 18 inches and the cross section of the 30 footers is roughly 34 inches. Awaiting y'all's input, Thank You in advance.
 
Saws are probably most efficient, but I still prefer an axe. I’m more inclined to sharpen an axe. Save the wood chips for kindling.
You don’t need anything fancy for splitting. Whatever axe you use for bucking will also probably split just fine. Any good 3 1/2 pounder will do. Heck, a boys axe could work in a pinch.
 
For safety's sake I prefer that the axe handle is longer than my inseam when bucking with an axe. YMMV.
 
It's easier to walk away from a self inflicted hickory handle to the nuts than an axe head stuck in my foot or leg. LOL. Even the "Mighty Casey" has swung and missed. Paul Bunyan I'm not.
 
M118LR said:
I've got two felled oak trees dropped in thirty foot pieces that I need to buck or crosscut into 24 inch lengths for use in the fireplace. Now once the slices are 24 inches long I figure either the 6lb swampers axe or the 4lb splitting axe can go to work. So would you buck up the 30 footers with an axe, crosscut, or Bull Saw? If so what type? ( IE Single bit Jersey or Michigan, Tuttle Tooth Crosscut, 4T or 9T Bull Saw) Note my longest bladed chain saw is 18 inches and the cross section of the 30 footers is roughly 34 inches. Awaiting y'all's input, Thank You in advance.
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I haven't used a bull saw. Looks like it could cut well and be an affordable option for those wanting a crosscut saw. It's notably lacking a hole for a supplementary handle in front of the D-handle. I wouldn't want to tackle 2 large oaks without a supplementary handle.

The drawback to impulse-hardened saws is that they are more difficult to maintain than crosscuts. They can't be filed and have to be sharpened with very small abrasive tools.

A Silky katana saw can at least be used with 2 hands.
 
Having a handle that can be positioned either on the D-handle or blade tip for 2 man use is probably more than a convince. I can't add photos, but I can add a couple of options from Forestry.

Links to non-supporting vendor removed per forum rules.

The thing about one man greenwood crosscut saws is that they are designed to cut just on the backstroke. That adds a bit more energy that needs to be expended. (At my age I'm not sure that I've still got more time than money? Not that I'm wealthy!) LOL. I'm just not sure that Southern Oak is as hard as Osage Orange? ( The charts show that Live Oak is just a bit harder than Osage Orange) So should I get a 2 tooth Tuttle tooth or a four tooth crosscut saw? About that 3 1/2 or lighter axe head, what is the percentage of bounce offs on Live Oak?( Try Florida Black Ironwood) That's why six pound swampers or double cuts dominate down here, when the trees are near as hard as the hickory handle, short handled light headed axes bounce more than bite. Not that they saw any easier. Guess y'all will have to search for 1 man greenwood crosscut saws on your own?
 
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I LOVE chopping with my axes, but I'm having a hard time comprehending that you own a chainsaw but are comtemplating using something else for this job. I would say in terms of efficiency, obvioiusly the chain saw is going to be the best tool for the job times about 50. then will be the crosscut and then the bull saw and then axe. if you have the time and energy to take on bucking a 36" oak log with an axe then more power to you and go for it. I've mostly used champion tooth crosscuts on oak and they work well. I've used a bull saw on smaller limbs and things and it worked fine, but I don't think they are great for big stuff. actually, now that I think about it, depending on how big your bull saw is an axe might be better. but still the crosscut and especially chainsaw are obviously going to be way superior for bucking logs. by a lot.
 
My biggest chain saw can't cut through a 34 inch cross section Live Oak with two opposite passes. It's not the 30 foot sections that are the problem, it's the cross section that my chainsaws fail on. A 36 inch crosscut saw barely handles the cross section. There is no cross section that any axe isn't capable of cutting through. But there will be chips along the way., especially while bucking. There is a reason why saws overtook axes for bucking? Usually it's the amount of waste that made the difference. When was the last time you stood on a log chopping below your feet?
 
34” diameter x 30’ long oak? An axe is totally out of the question IMO. Even hand sawing those is going to be a monumental task. You chainsaw has an 18” bar. With a little creativity twice that will get you through a 34” round. At the very least it will cut through 90% of the diameter, and you can saw the rest.
 
you can cut a notch with the chainsaw which will effectively reduce the diameter of the log and then you can cut all the way through it.
 
Sorry, I didn’t realize the chainsaw was an option here. Sure- you’d be crazy not to get clever with a chainsaw.

I’d still use the rare opportunity to chop.
 
Think I'm going to rule out any of my trusty axes. Don't see myself balancing on a log while bucking away between my legs. Guess it's a concession to Old Age. So step two is the 36 inch crosscut saw. I really like the price point on the 30 inch Bull Saw, but I just can't see how it would drag out all the cuttings without getting gummed up? Anyone used the American 4 tooth on Live Oak?
 
Here's what I think. I think you should use all of the above options on the logs. I think this could be an opportunity to try them all out. Chop on it with all of your axes until you tire. then you can saw some with the hand saws and then finish up whatever you have left to do with the chainsaw. That way you see how well each tool works. I will give you a warning about that bull saw though - that saw is going to want to bind so if you get the saw into a log good, I'd recommend putting a wedge into the top of the cut to keep the kerf open as much as possible. the same thing can be helpful with a crosscut if there is any top bind on the log. a properly set crosscut will creat a kerf slightly wider than the width of the blade, but it's still a really narrow cut and binds easily - but the bull saw is a bind master. at least in my experience.

and chopping below your feet is no problem. I've done it lots. seems like there was some mention above about the handle being close to your crotch when you do that - but if you stand and chop correctly that should never be an issue.

good luck and have fun and be safe.
 
The issue when bucking was the length of the handle. If the handle length is less than your inseam you can't stand up straight when bucking, if the length of the handle is greater than your inseam the axe head should still reach the ground before a body part when standing up straight. This is a safety thing in case of a miss or bounce. That's why I only use my miners axe while I'm kneeling. Once the log is cut into sections that fit my fireplace grate, I'll use either the splitting maul or swapper axe when splitting the sections into 1/8's. So it will most likely be which saw cross cuts most efficiently. I may even delay a little so that the Grand Kids gets some OJT. Thanks.
 
I'm going to take a moment to over emphasize bucking with an axe safety. (I have a 29 inch inseam) So stand up straight on a flat floor with a tape measure set at 27-28 inches and see what body parts are in the swing arc of your axe. Now extend the tape measure to 30-32 inches and repeat the process. Then extend to 34-36 inches. Just remember that standing atop a log is not as stable a platform as a flat floor. Placing body parts within the swing arc of a well sharpened ax is a recipe for disaster. Can you get away with it? Sure, maybe 999 times out of a thousand. The only time it becomes memorable is when your fatigued and it's that 1000th time. Perhaps you have exceptional luck and the steel toe on your work boot deflects the axe blade before it's stuck between your toes. Or, when bucking with an axe make sure the blade arc is long enough to keep the Earth between your body parts and the blade edge. JMHO, YMMV. Excuse the axe safety rant Please! Carry On.
 
M118LR said:
I really like the price point on the 30 inch Bull Saw, but I just can't see how it would drag out all the cuttings without getting gummed up?
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That's a legitimate concern. If you don't clear the gullets the saw will drag. The tip of the saw needs to clear on side or the other. But here's something you can do with the combination of the bull saw and you axe. Make a vertical (close to) cut with your saw on each side. Then chop to the kerf on each side. This will shorten the stroke of the saw and allow the gullets to clear.
 
On a long draw stroke most of the teeth should be exposed and then clear most of the chips? Or occasionally draw the saw completely free to clear everything. Slow, but the same idea when drilling a deep hole: pull the bit to clear the chips and keep drilling.

Square’s idea of two vertical cuts on two sides is a good one. If you lay it out to scale, two vertical cuts with a 30” saw in a 34” round should leave about a 20“ wide cut down the center. Three cuts and done, no need to chop.
 
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Now that's some food for thought 🤔 Could even get a little creative with the chainsaw and a bull saw. Think I'll pick up some fresh Ballistol oil for the E Garlick & Son Tuttle Tooth. What do y'all use to lubricate a hand saw when cutting green logs?
 
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