Axe Restoration Tool Recommendations

dropkickkid · Jul 7, 2015

I am about to delve into a new hobby I can tell from a mile away will be a passion - axe restoration. It was one of those "why haven't I been doing this for the last 30 years of my life" moments. So I will start with what I have or will be getting, and ask a few questions, and I am totally open to any suggestions with what i should invest in. The only things that may limit me are the 2 things factoring into the fact that I am once again finding myself a student - 1) I will be on a student budget for the next year or so 2) I am currently stuck in the middle of Chicago, which means a studio apartment, and I don't think the wife would be cool with me whipping the work bench out of storage or getting a belt sander. As soon as I start my Grad program both problems should change, but here I am, sorely in need of the cathartic release of axe restoration. I am pretty comfortable with the techniques involved with axe restoration, having practiced most of them in one way or another in my lifetime (by no means an expert, just comfortable), but am really excited about learning to use them in something that seems more of an art almost.

My initial toolkit will definitely include the inexpensive basic hand working stuff such as various grades of silicon carbide paper, a file or 2, and the sharpening stuff i already have (stones, strops, etc.). I am planning on getting a cheap angle grinder and a wire cup brush. I have a few power tools as well but i am a bit timid about using them, dremel, dewalt drill/driver, etc.

I would really like to try mirror (or close to mirror) finishing an entire axe head and had a couple questions. should i attempt to just sand the entire head working through the grits to achieve a mirror finish? would it be worth attempting to polish with some sort of compound and a buffing wheel with a hand tool? or should i just stay away from power hand tools all together? and will i be able to see the hamon line with a polished head?

Are there any other tools in your experience that i should look into?

Most important question - a subjective one at that - which pairs better with axe restoration, Sour mash or Kentucky straight?

PS
I am not looking to put a handle on anything yet, I just wanna loose myself in finding a grubby flea market head and making it beautiful again.

Agent_H · Jul 7, 2015

Limited tools and space.
1. Someplace or something to hold your head steady while you work on it.
- a vice is first choice but that will require it to be attached to something immobile/difficult to move.

2. Machinist/bastard/hand files and a file and to clean them during and after use. Manually removing mushrooming with sandpaper isn't fun for me.

3. Cleaning? How clean do you want it? Some users soak a head in vinegar then use various methods to remove anything left over. If you soak a head and wipe it off then you should plan on not ever using your towel or whatever for anything ever again. If you are in a studio apartment then a wire wheel on an angle grinder is going to make a mess and send up a cloud of material. Buckets for soaking and adequate ventilation for soaking.

4. I've never hand sanded a head to polish finish so someone can definitely help there.

5. Sharpening the bit/reprofiling takes a little practice and a plan. Maybe several different coarsenesses of files?

Just a response off the top of my head.

Maintaining the original patina is a great option as well.

It is a very rewarding hobby, especially if you plan/get to use the axe you build.

Hopefully you get some input here- lots of threads to be found here on the forums as well as varying approaches.

Guitarist7.62 · Jul 7, 2015

To get a mirror polish, the head needs to meet a certain criteria. Deeps pits are a no no. You need a smooth glass like finish, hand sanding with wet or dry and WD40 will keep dust and Debra down. Hamon line will be gone, unless you soak it in vinegar again. That would darken the finish but leave the shine for the most part. Have plenty of shop rags, and do this in old clothes that you won't mind getting covered with dust, metal shavings, oil, etc. C clamps to hold everything down, their cheap, and come in handy for so many other things.

ETA: any power tools used will create a massive amount of dust. The head will have to be dipped in water to keep it cool so as not to ruin the temper. They can also be loud.

JonathanCharles · Jul 7, 2015

Hey dropkickkid where do you go to school? I'm at a college in the burbs of Chicago! Also: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/965060-Axe-Polishing-Finishing-Advice
Cheers

dropkickkid · Jul 7, 2015

JonathanCharles said:
Hey dropkickkid where do you go to school? I'm at a college in the burbs of Chicago! Also: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/965060-Axe-Polishing-Finishing-Advice
Cheers

I am a UIC student, but i am also attending Harry S Truman (one of the City colleges campuses) for any classes I can to save ca$hola. Yourself? Always glad to meet a fellow student/bladeforumer in my area!

And thanks for the link! I searched several restoration threads but missed that one! good find!

dropkickkid · Jul 7, 2015

Agent_H said:
Limited tools and space.
1. Someplace or something to hold your head steady while you work on it.
- a vice is first choice but that will require it to be attached to something immobile/difficult to move.

2. Machinist/bastard/hand files and a file and to clean them during and after use. Manually removing mushrooming with sandpaper isn't fun for me.

3. Cleaning? How clean do you want it? Some users soak a head in vinegar then use various methods to remove anything left over. If you soak a head and wipe it off then you should plan on not ever using your towel or whatever for anything ever again. If you are in a studio apartment then a wire wheel on an angle grinder is going to make a mess and send up a cloud of material. Buckets for soaking and adequate ventilation for soaking.

4. I've never hand sanded a head to polish finish so someone can definitely help there.

5. Sharpening the bit/reprofiling takes a little practice and a plan. Maybe several different coarsenesses of files?

Just a response off the top of my head.

Maintaining the original patina is a great option as well.

It is a very rewarding hobby, especially if you plan/get to use the axe you build.

Hopefully you get some input here- lots of threads to be found here on the forums as well as varying approaches.

Guitarist7.62 said:
To get a mirror polish, the head needs to meet a certain criteria. Deeps pits are a no no. You need a smooth glass like finish, hand sanding with wet or dry and WD40 will keep dust and Debra down. Hamon line will be gone, unless you soak it in vinegar again. That would darken the finish but leave the shine for the most part. Have plenty of shop rags, and do this in old clothes that you won't mind getting covered with dust, metal shavings, oil, etc. C clamps to hold everything down, their cheap, and come in handy for so many other things.

ETA: any power tools used will create a massive amount of dust. The head will have to be dipped in water to keep it cool so as not to ruin the temper. They can also be loud.

Good to know, thanks! What about power tools for buffing though? should i skip the idea of using a buffing wheel and some compound all together? I cant imagine that causing too much of a mess. or is buffing or polishing not even necessary? i was thinking of maybe adapting something for car polishing with my drill/driver, maybe that idea won't save me any time.

smith357 · Jul 7, 2015

dropkickkid said:
S
Most important question - a subjective one at that - which pairs better with axe restoration, Sour mash or Kentucky straight?

I find sour mash has too much bite, I prefer a good smooth Kentucky Bourbon like Basil Hayden or Woodford Reserve.

The only power tool you need is possibly a drill for drilling out old stuck and broken hafts, everything else is done with hand tools. A good selection of files and rasps, and a vise with soft jaws or clamps to keep your work firmly planted to your bench as you file. A copper or bronze gas workers hammer is handy for tapping the head off a haft without marring it, 3-10 bucks at the flea market.

dropkickkid said:
Good to know, thanks! What about power tools for buffing though? should i skip the idea of using a buffing wheel and some compound all together? I cant imagine that causing too much of a mess. or is buffing or polishing not even necessary? i was thinking of maybe adapting something for car polishing with my drill/driver, maybe that idea won't save me any time.

I use a hard 10" buffing wheel but it's really not needed, you could get one for you drill, and after using emery cloth to remove the file marks hit the edge with a cutting compound to remove the sanding marks polish it up a bit. With a buffer you only have to sand to 340-400 grit

Guitarist7.62 · Jul 7, 2015

Buffing doesn't create to much mess. I've never had a need to do it tho, after polishing to 2000 grit wet or dry. Guess it depends on what you want to do.

dropkickkid · Jul 7, 2015

smith357 said:
I find sour mash has too much bite, I prefer a good smooth Kentucky Bourbon like Basil Hayden or Woodford Reserve.

The only power tool you need is possibly a drill for drilling out old stuck and broken hafts, everything else is done with hand tools. A good selection of files and rasps, and a vise with soft jaws or clamps to keep your work firmly planted to your bench as you file. A copper or bronze gas workers hammer is handy for tapping the head off a haft without marring it, 3-10 bucks at the flea market.

I use a hard 10" buffing wheel but it's really not needed, you could get one for you drill, and after using emery cloth to remove the file marks hit the edge with a cutting compound to remove the sanding marks polish it up a bit. With a buffer you only have to sand to 340-400 grit

Any compound you recommend? after an axe or two being able to stop at 400 grit should save a little cash...

Guitarist7.62 · Jul 8, 2015

dropkickkid said:
Any compound you recommend? after an axe or two being able to stop at 400 grit should save a little cash...

Try a rouge of some kind. Can't remember the color to grit ratio off the top of my head but I'm sure you can find it with a google search. Jewelrs rouge is also good for stropping

smith357 · Jul 8, 2015

dropkickkid said:
Any compound you recommend? after an axe or two being able to stop at 400 grit should save a little cash...

I use the Black Emery Compound on a 10" hard buffing wheel.
http://www.knifemaking.com/product-p/lm1.htm
http://www.knifemaking.com/product-p/wp1034.htm

It does a fair job. Under the right conditions it looks like a mirror or you can see the scratches it leaves it depends on lighting and angle.

Twoinch · Jul 8, 2015

you can polish up a pitted head just the same, only some of the pits will show.

here is a mann double bit i polished up with sand paper up to 1500g and then with a bench top buffer with a couple different compounds.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1215739-Mann-Lewistown-PA-DB-and-WC-Kelly-Perfect

getting the lighting just right is tough with a cheap camera. the pic with the coke can reflection shows the polish best. the head has a coat of beeswax and oil so its not a bright as when its clean. shows the minor pitting in the shine tho.

just using sand paper up to 2000 will get you a nice shine also, but is a ton of time hand sanding. i have done many axes that way, but only the bit/grind though. i much prefer to leave most of the original darkness intact, with the bevels and bit shined up.

a polished bit makes an enormous difference in penetration by the way.

Square_peg · Jul 9, 2015

dropkickkid said:
Any compound you recommend? after an axe or two being able to stop at 400 grit should save a little cash...

You'll need to go well past 400 grit to get a mirror polish. Tripoli compound is a good all around compound. Emery compound is coarser and will clean up rough spots quicker. Jewelers rouge is good for final polish. It's best to keep a polishing wheel to just one grit of polish. Some of the coarsest grit you've used will always stay on the wheel.

rjdankert · Jul 10, 2015

Square_peg said:
. . .It's best to keep a polishing wheel to just one grit of polish. Some of the coarsest grit you've used will always stay on the wheel.

Yes, one grit per wheel, I keep mine separated in plastic bags.

dropkickkid: Grit from sanding or polishing can also stay on your project. Wipe off your project before going to the next finer grit.

Bob

Curt Hal · Jul 10, 2015

I don't have room in my workspace for a grinder for polishing wheels. I do use up to 2000 grit if I want to polish up an edge. Seems to work well.