Axe steel supplier?

B

Ball

Joined
Mar 16, 2018
Messages
8
Hi, this is my first post on here, not sure if this is the correct place to post my question. I'm trying to make an axe for a fireman. It will be around 6lbs. I was wanting to make it out of 1080 but having a hard time finding a steel supplier. Does anyone have any recommendations where I can find steel. Also if anyone has any recommendations of a different steel that may be easier to find please let me know. Thanks!
 
Welcome to shop talk.
Fill out your profile information so we know a bit about you and where you live. This helps us give better answers.

Consider 5160, 1075, and 1084. They will all make a good axe. 5160 may be easier to find in thicker pieces.

To give a good answer about suppliers, how will you be doing the axe?
Milling from a block
Grinding from a block
Forging from bar stock



A fairly easy way of making an axe if you have the time is to find an old hatchet at a yard sale for $1. Condition doesn't matter. Take it out to a garden bed, dig a 6" deep hole about 10" wide. Put 1 cup of Miracle grow fertilizer over the bottom of the hole and stick the hatchet in head first ... so the handle sticks out about 6". Fill the hole with dirt and let it sit undisturbed all year. It may help to put a tag on the handle with the planting date and hatchet specs to help you keep track if you have other tools growing. When dug up the fall, the head should have grown to the size of a large axe. After re-grinding to the desired shape, it should make a nice tool.
TIPS:
It is best to do this right after the last frost so the axe has the entire growing season to increase in size.
Iron rich (red) soil is the best type. If you have clay or sandy soil, put some old nails and broken drill bits in the hole to add iron.

I have done this lots of times with onion sets and they end up about six to eight times larger by the next October.
 
Stacy you forgot to mention to add the charcoal to increase the carbon content if desired...Also, I suspect a a high clay content would give you a great differential heat treat of the axe.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Welcome to shop talk.
Fill out your profile information so we know a bit about you and where you live. This helps us give better answers.

Consider 5160, 1075, and 1084. They will all make a good axe. 5160 may be easier to find in thicker pieces.

To give a good answer about suppliers, how will you be doing the axe?
Milling from a block
Grinding from a block
Forging from bar stock



A fairly easy way of making an axe if you have the time is to find an old hatchet at a yard sale for $1. Condition doesn't matter. Take it out to a garden bed, dig a 6" deep hole about 10" wide. Put 1 cup of Miracle grow fertilizer over the bottom of the hole and stick the hatchet in head first ... so the handle sticks out about 6". Fill the hole with dirt and let it sit undisturbed all year. It may help to put a tag on the handle with the planting date and hatchet specs to help you keep track if you have other tools growing. When dug up the fall, the head should have grown to the size of a large axe. After re-grinding to the desired shape, it should make a nice tool.
TIPS:
It is best to do this right after the last frost so the axe has the entire growing season to increase in size.
Iron rich (red) soil is the best type. If you have clay or sandy soil, put some old nails and broken drill bits in the hole to add iron.

I have done this lots of times with onion sets and they end up about six to eight times larger by the next October.
Click to expand...

I'll be forging the head of the axe. I've made several in the 3-5lb range so I know how much work it is which is why I bought a press a while back. I used 4140 in the past but wanted to try something with a little more carbon in it this time. As for the miracle grow, I'll have to give that a shot when I have more time to grow an axe Haha. Thanks for the response, I've been creeping around on the forums for a while just finally created an account so I know your one of the people to listen to.
 
tr3yanderson said:
Stacy you forgot to mention to add the charcoal to increase the carbon content if desired...Also, I suspect a a high clay content would give you a great differential heat treat of the axe.
Click to expand...
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Welcome to shop talk.
Fill out your profile information so we know a bit about you and where you live. This helps us give better answers.

Consider 5160, 1075, and 1084. They will all make a good axe. 5160 may be easier to find in thicker pieces.

To give a good answer about suppliers, how will you be doing the axe?
Milling from a block
Grinding from a block
Forging from bar stock



A fairly easy way of making an axe if you have the time is to find an old hatchet at a yard sale for $1. Condition doesn't matter. Take it out to a garden bed, dig a 6" deep hole about 10" wide. Put 1 cup of Miracle grow fertilizer over the bottom of the hole and stick the hatchet in head first ... so the handle sticks out about 6". Fill the hole with dirt and let it sit undisturbed all year. It may help to put a tag on the handle with the planting date and hatchet specs to help you keep track if you have other tools growing. When dug up the fall, the head should have grown to the size of a large axe. After re-grinding to the desired shape, it should make a nice tool.
TIPS:
It is best to do this right after the last frost so the axe has the entire growing season to increase in size.
Iron rich (red) soil is the best type. If you have clay or sandy soil, put some old nails and broken drill bits in the hole to add iron.

I have done this lots of times with onion sets and they end up about six to eight times larger by the next October.
Click to expand...
Also I checked with several steel suppliers including the NJSB and they all led to dead ends in finding 5160 in large enough stock. 5160 was my first choice.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Welcome to shop talk.
Fill out your profile information so we know a bit about you and where you live. This helps us give better answers.

Consider 5160, 1075, and 1084. They will all make a good axe. 5160 may be easier to find in thicker pieces.

To give a good answer about suppliers, how will you be doing the axe?
Milling from a block
Grinding from a block
Forging from bar stock



A fairly easy way of making an axe if you have the time is to find an old hatchet at a yard sale for $1. Condition doesn't matter. Take it out to a garden bed, dig a 6" deep hole about 10" wide. Put 1 cup of Miracle grow fertilizer over the bottom of the hole and stick the hatchet in head first ... so the handle sticks out about 6". Fill the hole with dirt and let it sit undisturbed all year. It may help to put a tag on the handle with the planting date and hatchet specs to help you keep track if you have other tools growing. When dug up the fall, the head should have grown to the size of a large axe. After re-grinding to the desired shape, it should make a nice tool.
TIPS:
It is best to do this right after the last frost so the axe has the entire growing season to increase in size.
Iron rich (red) soil is the best type. If you have clay or sandy soil, put some old nails and broken drill bits in the hole to add iron.

I have done this lots of times with onion sets and they end up about six to eight times larger by the next October.
Click to expand...

Here are some pics of the last one I finished up, it was 5lb head. Not sure how to post the pics so here is the FB link...
https://www.facebook.com/1320691721393522/posts/1707111356084888/
 
Try Online metals for O-1 in 1X6" flat stock. That should make a nice size solid construction axe with a drifted eye.

One method that is both fun and makes a very high grade axe is welding in a bit. Use 4140 for the body and 1080/1095/W2 for the bit. After rough forging the shape down to about 1/2" thick on the cheek, cut a 1/2" deep slot in the edge. Open t up and set a piece of 1/4" high carbon steel in the slot and close it up. Slip out the bit and clean it and the slot up good, then reinsert and weld up solid. If you have a big piece of wrought iron it makes a really good looking poll with a hard steel bit.

If you have 1/4 to 3/8" flat stock, cut the bar into a "butterfly" and make the poll in the wrap style, then weld the bit between the two cheek pieces of the "U". This is the simplest type of hawk and axe construction. ( Experiment on paper to figure out the "butterfly shape needed. It is basically a left and right profile joined at the butt .. see below)

Aldo (NJSB) has 1075 in .375" thick stock. You can wrap that and set the weld so one cheek piece is 3/4" longer than the other, thus moving the weld way back from the edge when forged to shape. A 48" bar of 3" by .375" is $75. 4"X48" is $100. That will make a bunch of axes. Sell one and the bar is paid for.
Honestly, I would buy good grade commercial axe handles.

Now, for those reading all this and wondering about making it even cooler ....
Get a big billet of thick random pattern Alabama Damascus. You can call them and say you need a billet 4" wide, 10" long, and .375" thick.
You can also make your own, it doesn't need to be high carbon. A perfect blend would be 203E and 1075. That will show a bold layer pattern. High layer count isn't needed either, unless you want to.Anywhere over 100 layers will look great.
Cut it in a "butterfly" shape so when you wrap it it forms the base for the poll.
Make the bit piece from a 1.5X4" piece of 1075/1084/1095/ W-2 ... whatever you have on hand. I would use something around .375" thick stock for an axe.
Weld it up and start forging to shape and drift the eye to shape.

To draw the butterfly, draw two parallel 4" lines 8" apart. Draw an X from corner to corner. Place the ruler( normally about 1" wide)across thebtop corners and draw a line from one diagonal to the other. Repeat on the bottom. You now have a butterfly shape. Fora larger or smaller head, change the height and distance.

IMG_20180823_145106.jpg IMG_20180823_145227.jpg IMG_20180823_145252.jpg
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Try Online metals for O-1 in 1X6" flat stock. That should make a nice size solid construction axe with a drifted eye.

One method that is both fun and makes a very high grade axe is welding in a bit. Use 4140 for the body and 1080/1095/W2 for the bit. After rough forging the shape down to about 1/2" thick on the cheek, cut a 1/2" deep slot in the edge. Open t up and set a piece of 1/4" high carbon steel in the slot and close it up. Slip out the bit and clean it and the slot up good, then reinsert and weld up solid. If you have a big piece of wrought iron it makes a really good looking poll with a hard steel bit.

If you have 1/4 to 3/8" flat stock, cut the bar into a "butterfly" and make the poll in the wrap style, then weld the bit between the two cheek pieces of the "U". This is the simplest type of hawk and axe construction. ( Experiment on paper to figure out the "butterfly shape needed. It is basically a left and right profile joined at the butt .. see below)

Aldo (NJSB) has 1075 in .375" thick stock. You can wrap that and set the weld so one cheek piece is 3/4" longer than the other, thus moving the weld way back from the edge when forged to shape. A 48" bar of 3" by .375" is $75. 4"X48" is $100. That will make a bunch of axes. Sell one and the bar is paid for.
Honestly, I would buy good grade commercial axe handles.

Now, for those reading all this and wondering about making it even cooler ....
Get a big billet of thick random pattern Alabama Damascus. You can call them and say you need a billet 4" wide, 10" long, and .375" thick.
You can also make your own, it doesn't need to be high carbon. A perfect blend would be 203E and 1075. That will show a bold layer pattern. High layer count isn't needed either, unless you want to.Anywhere over 100 layers will look great.
Cut it in a "butterfly" shape so when you wrap it it forms the base for the poll.
Make the bit piece from a 1.5X4" piece of 1075/1084/1095/ W-2 ... whatever you have on hand. I would use something around .375" thick stock for an axe.
Weld it up and start forging to shape and drift the eye to shape.

To draw the butterfly, draw two parallel 4" lines 8" apart. Draw an X from corner to corner. Place the ruler( normally about 1" wide)across thebtop corners and draw a line from one diagonal to the other. Repeat on the bottom. You now have a butterfly shape. Fora larger or smaller head, change the height and distance.

View attachment 971452 View attachment 971453 View attachment 971454
Click to expand...
Thanks for the post. I've made a throwing axe using the wrap and weld method but that wont work for this design because I'm basically needing a sledge hammer on the back side of the axe, similar to a TNT tool. I've made a smaller 2.5lb camp axe with a welded 5160 bit in it, I was trying to avoid having to weld a bit into it but seems like that might be my best bet.... or just go with O1. Here is a quick sketch of what I'm going for. Hopefully this link works.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/156167398@N02/shares/b4SY8R
 
You can make that by welding up, too. Just make two profile pieces (a bit oversize) and place two more layers of the same steel in the head. Temporarily tack weld a piece of steel across the cheek pieces to keep them from twisting in the welding.

Tack weld the head up and forge weld it solid. A power hammer or press will make your arms say "thank you".

After the back head is welded solid, remove the temporary brace ( if it is still there) across the cheeks and weld in the bit.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
You can make that by welding up, too. Just make two profile pieces (a bit oversize) and place two more layers of the same steel in the head. Temporarily tack weld a piece of steel across the cheek pieces to keep them from twisting in the welding.

Tack weld the head up and forge weld it solid. A power hammer or press will make your arms say "thank you".

After the back head is welded solid, remove the temporary brace ( if it is still there) across the cheeks and weld in the bit.
Click to expand...
Hmmmm... that may be something to try. I've got a welder and a coal iron works press. The first few axes I made with my arm and a hammer, my arm wasnt happy so the press was a must. Thanks again Stacy for the help.
 
You are welcome. Try it out, you may be suprised at how a built up axe or other large tool comes out. Even with all the steel the same, the welds show as lines. If you stick a thin strip of 15N20 or pure nickel between the steel layers, it will make bright stripes.

This is also a good opportunity to learn hydrocarbon welding fluwell on the grindr/soak in kerosene, and start again.ssx techniques. The Cliff Notes version is to arc/mig/tig weld the corners solid while the billet is clamped tight. Then soak in a bucket of kerosene. Next, put in the forge and soak until at welding heat through and through. Put in the press and weld up. Put back in the forge before it gets below 1600F. Repeat the weld ( no more kerosene soaks) as needed. ... without letting it cool below red heat. Once it is solid, you can shape and forge as desired. If you have to let it cool to room temp durring the welding process, clean up on the grinder, soak again in kerosene, and start the weld again.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
You are welcome. Try it out, you may be suprised at how a built up axe or other large tool comes out. Even with all the steel the same, the welds show as lines. If you stick a thin strip of 15N20 or pure nickel between the steel layers, it will make bright stripes.

This is also a good opportunity to learn hydrocarbon welding fluwell on the grindr/soak in kerosene, and start again.ssx techniques. The Cliff Notes version is to arc/mig/tig weld the corners solid while the billet is clamped tight. Then soak in a bucket of kerosene. Next, put in the forge and soak until at welding heat through and through. Put in the press and weld up. Put back in the forge before it gets below 1600F. Repeat the weld ( no more kerosene soaks) as needed. ... without letting it cool below red heat. Once it is solid, you can shape and forge as desired. If you have to let it cool to room temp durring the welding process, clean up on the grinder, soak again in kerosene, and start the weld again.
Click to expand...
Awesome,thanks for the explanation and thank you again for the great advice. I buried a few tools earlier with some miracle grow, even buried my piggie bank, hopefully they grow haha.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
You are welcome. Try it out, you may be suprised at how a built up axe or other large tool comes out. Even with all the steel the same, the welds show as lines. If you stick a thin strip of 15N20 or pure nickel between the steel layers, it will make bright stripes.

This is also a good opportunity to learn hydrocarbon welding fluwell on the grindr/soak in kerosene, and start again.ssx techniques. The Cliff Notes version is to arc/mig/tig weld the corners solid while the billet is clamped tight. Then soak in a bucket of kerosene. Next, put in the forge and soak until at welding heat through and through. Put in the press and weld up. Put back in the forge before it gets below 1600F. Repeat the weld ( no more kerosene soaks) as needed. ... without letting it cool below red heat. Once it is solid, you can shape and forge as desired. If you have to let it cool to room temp durring the welding process, clean up on the grinder, soak again in kerosene, and start the weld again.
Click to expand...
You can avoid the weld lines by doing an autogenous tig weld on the entire visible perimeter of the weld. As long as you aren't doing damascus or similar, there is no need to grind out the weld metal and you will get clean, seamless forge welds between like material.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top