Axe, Tomahawk & Hatchet Photo Thread

I think those small hatchets look better on curved hafts. But the straight haft might be more useful and practical.
 
VpLxqUg.jpg

This is that lineman's flint edge, apparently it has a hardened poll, thought it was a stamp for the longest time because it's slightly recessed
 
That looks great Cteve!
A few questions, those tool marks that are visible are they from a spoon knife or gouge or something similar, and is that wood green or dry?
Thanks! The marks are from 2 different gouges a 20mm for the sides and a 35mm to do the bottom (makes it more flat) the wood is very green, I cut the tree down 2 weeks ago. The only tools used to carve was the axe a couple gouges and knife. As well as alot of time ;)
 
Thanks! The marks are from 2 different gouges a 20mm for the sides and a 35mm to do the bottom (makes it more flat) the wood is very green, I cut the tree down 2 weeks ago. The only tools used to carve was the axe a couple gouges and knife. As well as alot of time ;)
Time well spent I would say! One other question, is there a special way you dry it so it doesn’t crack?
 
Time well spent I would say! One other question, is there a special way you dry it so it doesn’t crack?
There sure is, I have been using two different ways, the first one is to keep the wood chips from carving the bowl and place them into a paper bag and then i cover up the bag with some old furs, this is to act sort of like a kiln, you want it to dry slow as possible. I have had a lot of success with this way and a few that didn't work.
The second way is called "water displacement" this is where in theory, you replace the water in the wood with oil (i use 100% pure Tung oil) this way seems to get better results but there is still a chance of cracks developing, however i noticed many of the cracks close up as it fully dries/cures.
 
There sure is, I have been using two different ways, the first one is to keep the wood chips from carving the bowl and place them into a paper bag and then i cover up the bag with some old furs, this is to act sort of like a kiln, you want it to dry slow as possible. I have had a lot of success with this way and a few that didn't work.
The second way is called "water displacement" this is where in theory, you replace the water in the wood with oil (i use 100% pure Tung oil) this way seems to get better results but there is still a chance of cracks developing, however i noticed many of the cracks close up as it fully dries/cures.
Thanks for sharing, I’d like to give it a try myself.
 
Here's a Plumb BSA hatchet and original sheath, plus a BSA sharpening puck and original case. The puck didn't come with the hatchet, I think I found it at an estate sale.

I cleaned up the head. After I removed a few nails from the wedge, I added a new wedge and I was able to reuse the original handle.

The leather sheath was very dry, but in decent shape, and it looks nice now that I added a copious amount of mink oil to it. The puck had several bad grooves worn in it, but I ground those out using a dollar store whetstone. Now it looks almost like brand new. I'm not a fan of the plastic holder, but that's the one that was made for it.

I thought about doing a shadow box display for a wall mount in my office. But lately, I've been leaning towards gifting it to a scout, or donating the set for a BSA fund raiser, I just haven't gotten around to looking into it.

Since these Plumbs are a little thick, if I sharpen it, should I thin the cheeks and go for the half moon effect, or just refine the factory edge?


Before
BSA%20ax_zps2zn815jq.jpg


After
BSA.after_zpsuef3il5l.jpg
 
I'd file it back a bit into a half banana or whatever the shape of the cheeks dictate when you file it to the axe gauge.

Love the little puck! What a great pair!
 
I spent too much on a Kelly Perfect Jersey on the bay. It was garishly polished, and I wasn't about to hang it like that. I'm not one for the grey on grey of a straight vinegar soak, so I finessed a strange patina with hot vinegar, Gunzilla CLP, and improvised technique. Looks like a movie prop, but I dig it. I had done up the edge before, and used nail polish as a resist on the edge and back a bit. Wanted something like the glowing edge the swedes have made so popular. I like it, but I think it'll be a love it or hate it thing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jawjhe17nwyb4f0/20181009_013834.jpg?dl=0

I'll have to figure out how to properly post images here. For whatever reason an image url from a Dropbox generated url (as above) doesn't work so far as I can tell.

ETA: I forgot to mention, the CLP rubbed in with the hot vinegar as red iron oxide was forming for some reason resulted in that bronze hue.
 
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I spent too much on a Kelly Perfect Jersey on the bay. It was garishly polished, and I wasn't about to hang it like that. I'm not one for the grey on grey of a straight vinegar soak, so I finessed a strange patina with hot vinegar, Gunzilla CLP, and improvised technique. Looks like a movie prop, but I dig it. I had done up the edge before, and used nail polish as a resist on the edge and back a bit. Wanted something like the glowing edge the swedes have made so popular. I like it, but I think it'll be a love it or hate it thing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jawjhe17nwyb4f0/20181009_013834.jpg?dl=0

I'll have to figure out how to properly post images here. For whatever reason an image url from a Dropbox generated url (as above) doesn't work so far as I can tell.

ETA: I forgot to mention, the CLP rubbed in with the hot vinegar as red iron oxide was forming for some reason resulted in that bronze hue.

p.jpeg
 
I spent too much on a Kelly Perfect Jersey on the bay. It was garishly polished, and I wasn't about to hang it like that. I'm not one for the grey on grey of a straight vinegar soak, so I finessed a strange patina with hot vinegar, Gunzilla CLP, and improvised technique. Looks like a movie prop, but I dig it. I had done up the edge before, and used nail polish as a resist on the edge and back a bit. Wanted something like the glowing edge the swedes have made so popular. I like it, but I think it'll be a love it or hate it thing.

The vinegar soak is SUCH an easy way to remove rust though. I like it better than almost anything else I have tried, including Navel Jelly. I found Cleaning Vinegar has a 6% concentration, verses general vinegar at 5%. Lowes has a jug for less than $2. 1% More doesn't sound like much, but it is 20% more of the "Good Stuff" in the solution.

The gray on gray pattern goes away if you polish it with a buffing wheel, SOS pad or Scotch Bright. Norton makes an awesome pad that might be of interest to folks on this site.

They are called the Norton Bear Tex Hand Pads. I use the maroon colored one for axe heads. They are like Scotch Bright pads on steroids. Not recommended for stainless. The pads seem to last forever and the don't rust or splinter like steel wool. I even use them like a strop for heavy duty tools like my machetes. If they get dusty, you can rinse them out since they don't rust.

Amazon has them 20 in a box. The site below, which I randomly found, has them in sets of 5 per box. The pads last a really long time. I'm still using the first two i started with about 9 months ago. If you have any round metal that you can spin in a drill chuck, they also polish round items like nobody's business. I even cleaned up some stainless bolts that way. Note: I think they might leave marks on flat, sooth stainless.

https://www.theruststore.com/Norton...EMmWr3ea_5Yp2snpDuIiock5Yd79OgrhoCgZMQAvD_BwE
 
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View attachment 1015435 hi everyone, anybody know this stamp? Im trying to upload a pic of the whole head but am having trouble. I got this from my uncle and know nothing about it just wanted to get some info on it
 
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