Axe Wax

A

AbLonewolf

Joined
Jan 30, 2020
Messages
75
Who uses this product on knife handles and your opinions, in particular using this on Micarta...Thanx...
 
Quite a few of us use it. There are several past treads on it. Use the custom search engine in the stickys and search Axe Wax.
 
I use this product and love it. I find it useful for many things, but specifically, a pic below where I used in on OD green/black canvas micarta. Wet sand to 1200 and then applied.

IMG_2907[1].JPG
 
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I use Axe Wax and really like it for some purposes (disclaimer, I also sell it, lol).

I really like it for most wood, and Micartas/phenolics/composites. It’s really great for most materials. Keep in mind that it will darken your material a bit though. It’s advertised for use on blades too, but I don’t like it for that.

It’s a true hardening wax, so there’s also a bit more of a process compared to other waxes. This is what works best for me:

Heat the Micarta/wood until it is warm to the touch with a heat gun or hair dryer (not hot, but warm enough to melt wax fairly easily). Apply the Axe Wax to the Micarta/wood. Warm up the coating of wax until it's all just a liquid puddle. Let it sit for 15 minutes. Wipe off ALL the excess. Keep wiping/buffing until the cloth comes back free of wax. Done. It’ll be a fairly permanent finish/change to the color.

Here is an example on some vintage, Westinghouse natural linen Micarta.

The first is raw off the bandsaw, the second has been finished to a fairly high grit and buffed, the third has been finished to a fairly high grit and then had Axe Wax applied. Look at how dark it is!

 
I know this isn't what the OP asked........
But I will often apply Watco Danish Oil finish to my micarta scales. It fills in, colors some, but Not too much. and hardens slightly.
I really like the warm feel.
feels almost like wood. Hard to explain.

*And Easy to do. Wipe on......
 
Over the years I've tried just about all of it.

White wax heated in with flame or heat gun.

Johnson's paste wax.

Vasoline.

Hand creme.

Boiled linseed with months in between coats.

French polish. Rubbed on for months.

Thinned out polyurethane. Doing 5 plus coats. Color sanding between each one.

Silicone liquids.

Car wax. Carnauba. Best smell out of all it.

Clear lacquer spray paint.

Shoe polish...
 
Crag the Brewer said:
I know this isn't what the OP asked........
But I will often apply Watco Danish Oil finish to my micarta scales. It fills in, colors some, but Not too much. and hardens slightly.
I really like the warm feel.
feels almost like wood. Hard to explain.

*And Easy to do. Wipe on......
Click to expand...
can you post any pictures of the finished micarta after Danish oil? I just got some for some wood scales, but haven't considered it or tried on micarta.
 
used it on lightning strike cf to help fill some of the divots left from breaking the wires out
 
I use Axe Wax all the time. Just sent out a hunter, firestorm dammy with Axe Wax on the steel (looks great, protects better than oil) axe wax and a light buff on top of a Tru Oil finish on aussie red mallee burl, and even some axe wax on the sheath, then a light buff (my giant bottle of acrylic resolene gelled up finally, gotta get more). Looks good on all surfaces, and while it does darken things a little... it's not as bad as say, an oil finish applied to ironwood for premature darkening. I put it on the hammered herculoy bronze guard too. I really like how it applies easily, looks good, and decently protects most materials we use.
 
Salem Straub said:
I use Axe Wax all the time. Just sent out a hunter, firestorm dammy with Axe Wax on the steel (looks great, protects better than oil) axe wax and a light buff on top of a Tru Oil finish on aussie red mallee burl, and even some axe wax on the sheath, then a light buff (my giant bottle of acrylic resolene gelled up finally, gotta get more). Looks good on all surfaces, and while it does darken things a little... it's not as bad as say, an oil finish applied to ironwood for premature darkening. I put it on the hammered herculoy bronze guard too. I really like how it applies easily, looks good, and decently protects most materials we use.
Click to expand...
Salem!! Great to see you stop by. I've got to get around to trying the Axe Wax sample I got.
I picked up a couple pieces of your damascus a few months ago and need to plan something with that also.
 
the stuff is more or less food safe as well, so I always use it as the final layer on any wood kitchen knives I make
 
Not necessarily good knife pictures, but ones with closer shots of scales with Danish oil
ashwinearl ashwinearl

All different types of micarta










 
Fixall said:
Now that I think of it, I still have a sample or two left here. Send me your mailing info and I’ll send one to you. :)
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I would accept your generous offer my friend but I already have some. But Thanx anyway! Besides, I live in Canada and shipping is expensive...lol

And to the others that have contributed, that is exactly what I was looking for.

One mentioned up to 1200 grit sanding...can you get away with 400-600 grit, to make it more grippy? I got a build with dark green canvas Micarta/orange G10 liners patiently waiting to get finished.

Thanx!
 
AbLonewolf said:
I would accept your generous offer my friend but I already have some. But Thanx anyway! Besides, I live in Canada and shipping is expensive...lol

And to the others that have contributed, that is exactly what I was looking for.

One mentioned up to 1200 grit sanding...can you get away with 400-600 grit, to make it more grippy? I got a build with dark green canvas Micarta/orange G10 liners patiently waiting to get finished.

Thanx!
Click to expand...
Definitely...I just struggle with trying to keep micarta from looking "dry" or "ashy" at lower grits. The choice to go higher is mainly just aesthetics for me. The wet sanding is also very important, even starting lower grit than normal. I think it kind of makes the fibers stand up more or something...it makes a difference for me more than the top coating honestly.

Good luck :)

John
 
AbLonewolf said:
I would accept your generous offer my friend but I already have some. But Thanx anyway! Besides, I live in Canada and shipping is expensive...lol

And to the others that have contributed, that is exactly what I was looking for.

One mentioned up to 1200 grit sanding...can you get away with 400-600 grit, to make it more grippy? I got a build with dark green canvas Micarta/orange G10 liners patiently waiting to get finished.

Thanx!
Click to expand...

Copy!

I have some Spyderco Mule Team scales that were left raw from the CNC so they’ll be super grippy. I treated them with Axe Wax a couple weeks ago. I’ll get you a pic later today so you can see how it looks on a rougher finish. :)

For a longer lasting, more permanent finish, you really need to warm the wax up until it liquifies. It’s a hardening wax, and a bit different then the waxes a lot of knifemakers are used to using.
 
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Here ya go! This is a Mule Team with scales made from vintage, Current Composites canvas phenolic (Micarta). The scales were left unfinished, fresh off the CNC so they are nice and grippy. The first pic is untreated. The second pic is one I took just now. The scales were treated with Axe Wax two or three weeks ago. If you follow the warm up process, it'll hold off that dry look much longer. :)

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A AbLonewolf So I happened to be working on some burlap and canvas micarta called Inferno pattern. I did a little before and after.

This is wet hand sanded and wiped clean at 1200
IMG_2930.jpeg

And this is after axe wax. I wipe it on and rub it in a bit with a rag. Wait 5 mins. Wipe it down and polish for a minute or 2 with a microfiber towel. Then , I do all that again (2 coats total). Result below:
IMG_2931.jpeg
 
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Ive been using it as well just recently....love it....i like how it quickly dries hard. and its food safe and smells good.
 
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