"Böker Plus Bushcraft Kormoran" has strange geometry ?

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What do you think about that budget knife with fixed blade ? I like its geometry , its micro bevel is so thick that it looks like a scandi, its like flat grind + scandi. I know that the thicker the micro bevel the less cutting efficiency but my logic tells me that there is point where thicker micro bevel becomes advantage since it becomes almost scandi. What do you think about that geometry ?

https://www.knifecenter.com/item/BO...shed-blade-black-g10-handles-and-kydex-sheath

 
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Looks like a full flat grind with secondary bevel. Scandie would not be full flat grind.

For that price i would want a better steel.

I do like Boker Plus line but sometimes they use a crappy steel when they could use better.

I like my Boker Plus Vox Rold in D2 but if it was made of a lesser steel i probably would not like it.
 
JamesofArc said:
Looks like a full flat grind with secondary bevel. Scandie would not be full flat grind.
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It seems you dont understand, its flat grind is under low angle, so low that secondary bevel is very thick thats why i said it looks like Scandi and flat grind combined together

JamesofArc said:
I do like Boker Plus line but sometimes they use a crappy steel when they could use better.
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I find Sendvik steel not as crappy but budget steel, the problem is that price is not budget ))) 100$ is too much for it , max 60$
 
No problems with the steel, properly heat treated it should be tough and easy to sharpen.
 
It’s not scandi, it’s just an obtuse edge. It looks the same as other “survival knives.” It will not benefit you whatsoever in Bushcraft. In fact, just based off the photos here, it would most likely benefit from some edge thinning.

That said it looks like a decent knife otherwise. It reminds me of a sissipuuko which is a good design. That’s also a very good stainless on a Bushcraft knife IMO. If the sheath is good it’s not a bad price.
 
Shotgun said:
If the sheath is good it’s not a bad price.
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Not bad price ? People are complaining about Mora bushcraft 14c28n knife costing 70$ and this one is almost the same and cost even more.

Shotgun said:
In fact, just based off the photos here, it would most likely benefit from some edge thinning.
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Thats what i ment , most flat grind knives got thinner edge, but this one got such a thick edge that it looks like half scandi, like flat grind mix with scandi . But why thinning edge , is it not enought to change angle of edge ?
 
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Ok there was promotion on amazon and i bought that knife for 52 Euros, too bad im not from USA and was charged extra 18 Euros fee for import+shipping. But still 70 Euros together is less than 90 - 100 Euros in European shops.

Will test it next year if it will come in time. I hope it wont be bad heat treated just because is made in China.
 
While browsing Amazon, the cormorant popped up again and again. As I said, Böker and so, besides 100€ for Made in China. I didn't really want to buy, although the knife is already a force. But now there was a warehouse sale, 70€, I became weak because it is also located in the regions of plastic knives such as the Mora Garberg.

And what can I say, I'm really baff. The materials (Sandvik 14C28N steel, G10, Kydex) read only well for the first time, whether you assemble the whole appealing, is a completely different story. Here it was properly assembled, and how. The workmanship is really very, very good. The grinding, both the actual flat grinding and the cutting chamfer are excellently executed, the blade is candle-straight. The transitions between handle shells and steel are extraordinarily clean, only in two small places the steel is minimal, and we are talking about a protruding of the thickness of a hair, if any.

Now one may think that this is only one of the many gimmick knives, which in particular also sells Boker, only appearance, no function and substance, see e.g. Schund like that the Boker Bushcraft. But you'd be wrong here. The designer, Sándor Hegyes (which I've never heard of before, but I don't buy knives because of the designers either), has really understood how to combine a great look with functional details, some of which can only be seen at second glance. Hidden at the end of the handle there is a lanyard hole and instead of a ribbed thumb rest, the sharp 90° knife back was rounded here, so as not to cut into the thumb when working. In addition, a nice finger guard and a really very comfortable grip. No, this knife is as functional as it is visually appealing. Nicties like an engraved serial number round off the whole thing. There is not much to say about the sheath, is made of Kydex, fits well, but could sit a bit tighter for my taste .

Overall rather simple kept, nothing special. For attaching to the belt, one of the Boker's own (I think at least) belt clips is included, which can be screwed to the sheath in different ways. But this thing is made of so thin plastic that I wouldn't trust this knife or any other knife.

Finally, I'm really happy with the cormorant, it should probably be my new go-to-outdoor knife.

Highly recommended.
 
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I would describe it as a tank mora, in summer i did lot of batoning with it , it did roll a little bit when batoning harder wood, but then i changed edge angle a bit and it was very nice. Its original 13 degree edge angle could be good for CPM3, D2 or other strong steels but not for Sandvik.
 
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fishface5 said:
"There is not much to say about the vagina, is made of Kydex"
Might want to check your dictionary again
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For some parts of review i used google translator since it was at night and i was tired, have no idea how could google use that word, im sure i did not type that word.

buckfynn said:
Add 'Sendvik' to that list to check.
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Yeah my mistake, as i said it was at night.

thank you . Both fixed.
 
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fielder said:
How sharp is it out of the box?
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From the box it could cut the paper , sharp enought. I would not say its the most slicey in the world but its slicery was good, maybe 8 from 10. Do not forget, it is scandi on the flat grind.
If you going to buy it and planning on batoning the wood i suggest to change edge angle from 13 to at least 15 to prevent rolling or chipping (depends on heat treat , mine did roll little bit)
 
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