Bandsaw Blade Recommendation

Jonathans

Jonathans

Joined
Jan 9, 2008
Messages
588
I am going to convert my HF 64.5" blade bandsaw to vertical only. I've been using bi metal .5" blades which are great for cutoff and straight cuts but not so great for curves. I want to go with a .375 blade who's teeth are offset enough that they widen the kerf so there's more room for tighter curves.
Any recommendations?
 
I found a vendor who will custom make Lennox Diemaster blades. 1/4, 3/8 etc. I ordered a few at 64.5" and will post how well they work here once I get them.
 
Jonathans said:
I found a vendor who will custom make Lennox Diemaster blades. 1/4, 3/8 etc. I ordered a few at 64.5" and will post how well they work here once I get them.
Click to expand...

I will look forward to learning about these, and who you get them from. Thanks for posting.
 
I placed the order for these blades through bandsaw blades direct. I won't be able to try the blades for a week or so as I am out of the country right now.
 
Hey Jonathans,

I had this thought when I first started out, seemed logical at the time. I can't speak for a HF saw but mine is also a horizontal/vertical and when I put the thinner blade on I noticed it wasn't tracking properly and by that I mean it was unusable. After some inspection I noticed the blade was riding funny in the bearings. Mine has eight bearings in the guide four double stacked and the blade was riding in between them. I tried tinkering with it a bit and finally gave up and put the old one on.

I am fortunate in that the folks that make my saw are a small shop here in the states owned by two self described "tool nuts". When I called one of the owners answered and he explained to me the blade had to be .5" wide for horizontal operation.

Yours may work out different but I thought I would share my experience.

-Clint
 
Jonathans said:
I am going to convert my HF 64.5" blade bandsaw to vertical only. I've been using bi metal .5" blades which are great for cutoff and straight cuts but not so great for curves. I want to go with a .375 blade who's teeth are offset enough that they widen the kerf so there's more room for tighter curves.
Any recommendations?
Click to expand...

Not unless you modify the saw to take it.

Open the saw and look at how the blade sits on the wheel.


The spine of the blade butts up against the shoulder of the wheel.


The teeth have set - they are offset left and right for clearance.

The teeth overhang the edge of the wheel, so the blade sits flat on the wheel.


If you put a narrower blade on, it will not sit flat and the blade tension will be flattening out the set.

I suppose you could make a set of wheels to accommodate a narrower blade with.




But I just cut in like sun rays from the outside
 
Well, sounds like there is a reason I had such a hard time finding narrow blades for this saw!to make a mod t
Hopefully when I get home I can see a relatively simple way to modify it.
By the way, I am thrilled with the Jet HBS 56S miter bandsaw. Real nice quality and performance at that price polnt.
 
Cut straight lines ... grind in curves. A metal cutting band saw will cut a very slight curve at best. Use Lenox Diemaster blades and make multiple cuts if needed to accommodate curved areas in the profile. Make them into curves with the belt grinder.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Cut straight lines ... grind in curves. A metal cutting band saw will cut a very slight curve at best. Use Lenox Diemaster blades and make multiple cuts if needed to accommodate curved areas in the profile. Make them into curves with the belt grinder.
Click to expand...

Thanks Stacy. Thats what I have been doing. I just thought I could save a few belts by cutting the blade closer to shape first with the bandsaw. I guess I could still eliminate a heck of a lot of steel with straight cuts. Are you shaping your guards soley by forging and grinding, or do you cut them closer to shape with the bandsaw?
 
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