Bandsaws

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Nov 5, 2018
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Good evening: First post. My college-age son and I are building a shop bit by bit, and it is time for a band saw. Problem is I know squat about bandsaws, and the boy's off to college and cannot help me shop. So what do I need by way of specs or a specific machine? We are strictly newbie hobby knifemakers. I appreciate the help.
 
I don’t have a ton of experience with metal bandsaws, but a few more details might help others give some suggestions. What’s your price range, space available, and what kind of application will you be using it for? I had a 4x12 (I think?) vertical/horizontal of the harbor freight variety that I got used. It worked okay, but it drove me absolutely nuts when the blade would pop off frequently while cutting. I liked the option of cutting with the little table when upright as well as clamping stuff in and getting the horizontal cuts done on different projects.

I now have a portaband and got the SWAG Off-road table. I was limited on space and it’s definitely nice for that. It’s been working well so far for me.

I’d love to have a bigger, nicer one that I’ve seen at others’ shops, but that isn’t in the cards right now. There’s a lot of variety in metal bandsaws, I’m sure some more folks with more experience will be along to offer advice.

Jeremy
 
I had a vertical/horizontal metal cutting bandsaw that I recently got rid of when I purchased a portaband and a SWAG table. I'm much happier with the new setup, especially given that I have a small shop and the space freed up is really noticeable. I use it for cutting out knife blanks as well as for scales and breaking down wood for blocks to send out to K&G; I just swap out blades (takes about 1.5 minutes when it's mounted). It's big enough for most of the work I do, but the throat depth makes breaking down slabs a bit of a chore. If I was doing bigger slabs, I'd go to a friend's shop with a dedicated woodworking bandsaw. I love the ability to clamp down a piece of wood as a fence and rip scales from a block since the SWAG table is wildly more stable than the vertical/horizontal. Hope this helps!
 
I have a 64.5 inch saw that works good. It has a stand and can be used to cut barstock as well. Expect to pay 300 to 500 for one. I have also heard of a lot of guys using portabands. This is a cheaper option and there are companies that make stands for them. I would check YouTube to see what might suit you. Ekim knives has a lot of videos showing his affordable setup. Smock knives has a video showing his modified saw.
 
biggest thing to note is the speed. in order to cut metal you need to be able to run about 80-200 feet per minute. metal bandsaws can cut woods and plastics also. So if your only cutting scales, steel blanks, pins and the like then a metal bandsaw will do it all. I have a portable bandsaw and am in the works of making a worktable for it, or you can just buy a SWAG table..
 
I agree with Maineiac, unless you will be doing lots of wood cutting, a single metal cutting band saw will suffice. The Harbor Freight and similar 4X6" horizontal/vertical saws are the most popular. While the Wen shown in Kali4nia's post looks like a good deal, it is woefully underpowered. The HF saw cost about the same, but has a 1HP motor. https://www.harborfreight.com/horizontal-vertical-metal-cutting-bandsaw-93762.html

These saws come with a saw table that bolts on. Most knifemakers set the saw up in the vertical position and leave the table on all the time.

Get a good bi-metal metal cutting blade in 18 or 24 TPI (I prefer 24TPI). I like Lenox blades. They are more expensive, but worth it AFAIAC. Get a good wood cutting blade with either vari-tooth or 3TPI. Run the saw at 80 FPM for metal cutting and 200 FPM for wood. It will be a bit slow cutting wood, but knifemakers don't need to cut long or complex shapes. In 64.5" length and 1/2" width, Lenox Diemaster 24 TPI metal cutting blade runs about $25. A Lenox TriMaster wood blade in 1/2" 4TPI is $15.
Take my advise and get two of each so you will have a backup.

A nice home upgrade for these saws is cutting a piece of countertop scrap to fit (the sink cutout pieces are free from many places that do kitchen installations) and screwing it to the thin metal table that comes with the saw. Just cut a straight slot down it and slide it in place. Screw it from below with four 1" screws.

A good wood cutting bandsaw is nice, and if your hobby gets that large, you will know when it is needed. A good wood bandsaw runs between $800 and $1000. Lenox Tri-master blades ( In my opinion the best for wood cutting) are over $100 each
 
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https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/table-for-a-small-bandsaw-wip.1408644/

I did this a couple of years ago and couldn't be happier, this little machine is a beast and cuts anything, and having almost 5" of space between the arm and the blade is great. I have at least two bimetalic spares at any given time, and change them the same way as belts: like they were free. Also have a 3 tpi for cutting wood and its a real pleasure.

Pablo
 
Though I would like a nice big metal bandsaw. My portaband and swag table have been great
 

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These responses are incredibly helpful, and thank you to all of you. We will likely do little wood cutting for now but do need to cut out blanks for the blades and scales. I am exploring all of these options this evening. Thanks again.
 
Just remember. You can cut both with a metal bandsaw. You can't cut both with a wood saw
 
And, in the time it takes to put on the wood-cutting blade-you can have a set of scales cut out with the metal-cutting blade.
Unless you are doing a lot of wood cutting, your metal blade will work pretty well.
 
I have a Dewalt variable speed portaband on a SWAG table and a full size wood bandsaw. Here's the wife cutting out a couple of kitchen knives for me:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BjsdVAUBz7v/

Anyhoo I've not used the full size bandsaw in months and months and I do cut a lot of wood and other handle materials as well as blades.

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I use it to cut blades, handle materials, pin materials, bolster materials etc. I use the heck out of this set up. Cutting a lot of handle materials I will switch blades but on this outfit thats like a thirty second job. I have the room for a full size metal saw and could afford one. Simply haven't seen the need. I run 14 tpi for general use/steel blades and 10 tpi for wood.
 
I used a 4x6 harbor freight for a while. Until I got so frustrated with it I almost rolled it out into traffic.

I switched to a portaband and SWAG table and I'm a lot happier.

BTW if you're around the metro Detroit area you can come and get this harbor freight POS out of my garage.
 
I used a 4x6 harbor freight for a while. Until I got so frustrated with it I almost rolled it out into traffic.

I switched to a portaband and SWAG table and I'm a lot happier.

BTW if you're around the metro Detroit area you can come and get this harbor freight POS out of my garage.

I threw one away, felt foolish about it and tried again a few years later - Same problems.

Portabands do work.
 
The Portaband is the one tool I've said that I would replace that day if it ever died. I have, even though it was an hour drive each way. Replaced it that day.
 
Good evening: First post. My college-age son and I are building a shop bit by bit, and it is time for a band saw. Problem is I know squat about bandsaws, and the boy's off to college and cannot help me shop. So what do I need by way of specs or a specific machine? We are strictly newbie hobby knifemakers. I appreciate the help.

I bought a Grizzly portaband a few months back. I have it mounted on a SWAG table (http://www.swagoffroad.com). I had been using an angle grinder to profile my blades. The portaband and the SWAG table were a great choice. The angle grinder is my least favorite tool. It is too dangerous, IMO.

With the portaband, I can profile four or five blades in an hour. The cuts are much cleaner with fewer sharp edges and no steel splinters. There is less waste than with an angle grinder. There are no blinding sparks as with an angle grinder and the steel doesn't get as hot.

You were probably inquiring about the band saw as a wood-cutting device. You might be able to use the portaband for both wood and metal.

You may want to consider this option.
 
Good evening: First post. My college-age son and I are building a shop bit by bit, and it is time for a band saw. Problem is I know squat about bandsaws, and the boy's off to college and cannot help me shop. So what do I need by way of specs or a specific machine? We are strictly newbie hobby knifemakers. I appreciate the help.

We have a Grizzly bandsaw in the shop, and a Jet bandsaw (we had an old US made bandsaw for years that was super heavy duty, but it died some time ago). The Grizzly is meant for wood, it’s a vertical style saw with a work table and fence, etc. It can cut metal, but it’s not designed for it. I don’t actually know what the difference would be, but my guess is that a metal saw would have a more powerful motor, and a more rigid system for holding the blade above and under the work, and perhaps a slightly different pulley system. But in the end I don’t know.

(Note that I don’t know the real names of these bandsaw types)

The jet is a horizontal jaw-like bandsaw meant for metal. It has no work rest (our old one was like that, but you could stand the saw up and it had a table), you lift the saw and it cuts with its own weight, through material clamped onto a rest area.

Basically the Jet is more powerful. You can cut stainless steel with it. It’s slow, but it gets through. The issue is that you can only clamp something down that fits (shaft like objects, flat stock, key stock, etc... anything short, less than 4” or so is either hard or impossible to cut). It’s a non-messy way of cutting through stock, but it isn’t very versatile.

The table bandsaw is much more versatile, but it’s going to cost you a lot if you want one that can cut metal easily (as mentioned some people buy the portable ones and make stands, which is cheaper than a huge industrial saw). If you want to be able to profile a piece of stock with it so you don’t have to grind it out, which is great to be able to do, then you’ll need one meant for metal cutting. If you can afford it, they are great. But if you want one for shaping handles and stuff, something cheaper like mine for wood cutting will work very well. If you just want a chopper, the horizontal one will cut pretty much any material, and they leave a significantly smaller mess (no dust to inhale either really) than an abrasive chop saw/grinder.

You also could get a horizontal chop bandsaw that can have a table attached when vertical, like my old one. That can safely chop large pieces, and also be used for profiling. That is probably the best option imo, but I have no idea how common they are or the price range.

That’s all my experience with them. Personally I think having a saw that can profile a blade, on top of using it for handles and softer metal, is a good investment.
 
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