barrel spacers

I think you pm'd me - if yes, here's the dope I'm guessing you want. :D


Backspacer/Standoff - Tri-Ring Design - (.165) Stock# STD3R165

std3r_1_550.jpg


They are threaded, which is OK, but requires a little fiddling to get perfect fit of all the parts.
 
If you take a look at the knife ;) you'll see that the screws go all the way through the backspacer, rather than having screws on each side like the Millie. :D

Just for the record, changing these out requires partial disassembly of the knife, may void your warranty, and requires at least minimal mechanical abilities (a little more if you use threaded spacers).

I have done several of my 710s and 705s, but if you have doubts, have Benchmade do it. <-- the lawyers made me write this ;)

benyaM95 Ranger Knif said:
if they aren't threaded, how are they attached? and aren't the a bit too short?
Click to expand...
 
The hardest part of the change over was getting the plastic spacer out. It has tabs that fits into holes in the liners. Kind of a pain but I was able to get it out without fully removing the pivot screw.

And to answer Ranger Knif's question - they are .157 long, and when I measured the spacing using my dial calipers before I disassembled my knife, I measured about .160. After I got the plastic spacer out I measured it and it is .165. Don't know why I got the discrepancy, but at any rate, the .157 spacers still worked fine for me. To elaborate on JNewell's answer, the 710 uses a single long screw that goes through the spacer and goes into a threaded nut that is embedded in the scale on the opposite side.

If I get a chance later I'll post a picture.
 
Your note on the thickness of the spacers is right on. I think that you can use either the .157" or .165" spacers interchangeably. In particular, on the 710, the distance between the nearest spacer/screw and the pivot is pretty generous, so it's hard to imagine any issues either way.

I *think* but will not swear that when I did this the first time I measured the spacers on my 805 M4 LE and got .165" and ordered those. Again, given the distance to the pivot I don't see .007" being a big deal. YMMV, I guess, though.

Zuchus said:
The hardest part of the change over was getting the plastic spacer out. It has tabs that fits into holes in the liners. Kind of a pain but I was able to get it out without fully removing the pivot screw.

And to answer Ranger Knif's question - they are .157 long, and when I measured the spacing using my dial calipers before I disassembled my knife, I measured about .160. After I got the plastic spacer out I measured it and it is .165. Don't know why I got the discrepancy, but at any rate, the .157 spacers still worked fine for me. To elaborate on JNewell's answer, the 710 uses a single long screw that goes through the spacer and goes into a threaded nut that is embedded in the scale on the opposite side.

If I get a chance later I'll post a picture.
Click to expand...
 
As promised, here are some pics of my 710 D2 with the spacers I purchased from Jantz Supply, and a pic of the original plastic spacer:

710withstandoffs1.jpg


710withstandoffs2.jpg


710plasticspacer.jpg
 
The spacers are 4 mm or .158", but I think most places sell them in the 4 mm size, not the SAE equivalent.
 
For what it's worth, a video I did for my boys, who are away at college

[youtube]N0jdLD4N9bA[/youtube]
 
Thanks JNewell, nice video. It's cool to see both the before and after together.
 
Zuchus, I was looking at Jantz knife supply and could not find the spacers that you used. I was hoping that you could send me a link to them
 
Outpatient said:
Zuchus, I was looking at Jantz knife supply and could not find the spacers that you used. I was hoping that you could send me a link to them
Click to expand...

I sent benchmade support a email asking them to send me the barrel spacers they use on the 710 and they said okay, got them 11 days later free of charge and installed them myself.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top