Bead blast finish -pros/cons-

[AugustChief]

My knife (1095 High Carbon Alloy RC-58) will soon be bead blasted after being reshaped, re-profiled and reground.

The bead blast is going to remove the traction coating and eliminate any reflective surfaces on the regrind.

Concern:
The increased susceptibility to rust due to the collection and holding of moisture. I've invested a lot of money into this knife thus far, and want to protect my investment/outdoor companion.

Questions:
Do you have any recommendations post bead blasting? Treatment, preventive maintenance or recommended applications?

Options:
1. I was told several applications of massaged mustard into the blade would eventually permanently fill the pores and prevent moisture from collecting and give a finish that would blend well in desert environment.

2. Allow a patina finish to develop to bolster corrosion resistance.

3. I'm considering a desert digital camouflage duracoat pattern finish ($100) from Up-Armored Combat Ready Protective Coatings at http://uparmored.tripod.com/id22.html.

Thanks

R/
Jonathan

 

[changeofseasons]

First, start by looking into forced patinas. The mustard method is only one of several methods to do this. If you bead blast your knife and then put a patina on it, the bead blasted surface may or may not show through the patina depending on what kind of patina you have.

No matter what you choose, bead blasting, forced patina, painted surface, or combo thereof, your knife will still need to be protected from corrosion. The primary bevels are on your knife are big and the whole bevel will probably be sharpened every time you sharpen the knife. I protect my knives with a food grade mineral oil that I picked up for a couple bucks from walmart. That or some other lube should probably be in your field kit. Gun oils work well if you carry in the field, but I personally prefer to keep everything food safe.

 

[FlaMtnBkr]

Option 1 IS forcing a patina. Did the person tell you that you would build up a layer of mustard in the crevices to protect it? A patina is an acquired look. Some people force them with things like mustard and some just like to let it happen naturally. A patina will help but the knife will still rust if you leave it sitting in a wet sheath.

I would also find out what the process is that the coating is put on. Carbon steel is tempered at low temperatures so you could potentially make your blade softer if it gets put in a 300-400 degree oven to cure whatever is put on it. Some powder coats are put into an oven at high enough temperatures to soften the blade.

Many people have carbon blades and use them a lot. Look around and you will find a ton of information. But it is a carbon blade and it will rust as it is not a stainless steel. 1095 actually is one of the easier rusting steels and will rust easier than other carbon steel like A2, D2, and I'm sure plenty of others.

 

[lukus]

Glass beading leaves rounded dimples. Blasting with other media, especially silicon carbide leaves sharp sided pits. I don't think glass beading will make the knife any easier to rust than any other satin finish.

There are different grits to glass bead blasting. The fine is very fine and will leave a satin finish that will just barely start to blend 600 grit sandpaper scratches. Anyway, a hard car wax will protect from rust and be pretty durable.

 

[AugustChief]

First, start by looking into forced patinas. The mustard method is only one of several methods to do this. If you bead blast your knife and then put a patina on it, the bead blasted surface may or may not show through the patina depending on what kind of patina you have.

No matter what you choose, bead blasting, forced patina, painted surface, or combo thereof, your knife will still need to be protected from corrosion. The primary bevels are on your knife are big and the whole bevel will probably be sharpened every time you sharpen the knife. I protect my knives with a food grade mineral oil that I picked up for a couple bucks from walmart. That or some other lube should probably be in your field kit. Gun oils work well if you carry in the field, but I personally prefer to keep everything food safe.

Thanks Joel,

Much appreciated. Check this video out by knifeandstuff, incredible patina finish http://www.youtube.com/watch#!v=IFYEj2dRVBY&feature=related

 

[AugustChief]

Glass beading leaves rounded dimples. Blasting with other media, especially silicon carbide leaves sharp sided pits. I don't think glass beading will make the knife any easier to rust than any other satin finish.

There are different grits to glass bead blasting. The fine is very fine and will leave a satin finish that will just barely start to blend 600 grit sandpaper scratches. Anyway, a hard car wax will protect from rust and be pretty durable.

Thanks Lukus,

I didn't think of using car wax. I don't want to place anything toxic on the blade, I plan on using it on food in addition to bushcraft.

 

[AugustChief]

Did the person tell you that you would build up a layer of mustard in the crevices to protect it?

Thanks for your detailed response,

No, he stated the onset of rust would take a little longer only, however; I still need to do routine preventive maintenance.

I'm in the military and we frequently do Preventive Maintenance System (PMS) on all of our weapons, but I just wanted to bolster its ability to combat the onset of rust. Especially when backpacking for 30 days in the AT or outdoors in general.