Bearded Axe...

J

John79

Joined
Feb 24, 2007
Messages
225
Ive been looking around for a Bearded Axe. There are several criteria I want it to meet. It need to be fully functional, able to withstand the rigors of chopping hardwood if called upon, it can be cast, as long as its done well, and must be heat treated. All for under $120ish if possible. Thank you.

EDIT- I've been looking at the Nordland Axe by Arms and Armor.
http://www.armor.com/pole213.html

And the Bearded Axe by Hanwei.
http://www.hanweishop.com/proddetail.php?prod=XH1073N

I know the Hanwei axes are known for having poor quality handles, but its really the quality of the head that I'm interested in.
 
Last edited:
I had the Hanwei and absolutely hated it. I gave it away.

Thing to remember with most of the "Battle axes" out there is that they have a very thick, obtuse bevel on them -- at least the ones I've handled. Whereas an historically correct battle axe will have a very thin head and edge, and often won't hold up to felling a hardwood.

You might want to contact Steve Lilley at Coal Creek Forge (he's a member here as CoalCreekForge, IIRC), and ask how much it'd be for him to make you exactly what you want.

His email: ccfms@sbcglobal.net
 
Cpl Punishment said:
I had the Hanwei and absolutely hated it. I gave it away.

Thing to remember with most of the "Battle axes" out there is that they have a very thick, obtuse bevel on them -- at least the ones I've handled. Whereas an historically correct battle axe will have a very thin head and edge, and often won't hold up to felling a hardwood.

You might want to contact Steve Lilley at Coal Creek Forge (he's a member here as CoalCreekForge, IIRC), and ask how much it'd be for him to make you exactly what you want.

His email: ccfms@sbcglobal.net
Click to expand...


I'm pretty sure I've seen photos of period axes just like that.
 
I know it may not be historically accurate, but I would prefer one with a thicker bevel. I was more wondering about the heat treat and steel, the over all quality, not its accuracy.
 
Avery did a review of the hanwei, I think he liked it besides the terrible handle it came with, I think he broke it on a throw and it's oval shaped.

That arms and armor axe looks nice though, no experience with it and I haven't read any reviews of it.

Ragweed forge sells the Allan foundry bearded axe, it has a shorter handle but it's a nice axe none the less.
 
Cpl Punishment said:
Thing to remember with most of the "Battle axes" out there is that they have a very thick, obtuse bevel on them -- at least the ones I've handled. Whereas an historically correct battle axe will have a very thin head and edge, and often won't hold up to felling a hardwood.
Click to expand...

That's kind of a debatable point. There have been examples of boat building axes found at battlefield sites. You're right in the fact that an axe made just for war has a thinner profile and narrower edge, but often times a regular axe was used for fighting.

The Hanwei is actually pretty accurate for an axe that would've been used in the 700's and on. Aside from the crappy handle that is. I will say that the Nordland is all around a better axe. I had one and like a danged fool I traded it. Haven't picked up a replacement yet.

As for what Kenny said, I did do a review of the full beard, here's a link for the OP with a short vid of throwing and cutting bottles.

http://sbgswordforum.proboards.com/...ponreviews&action=display&thread=13361&page=1
 
Last edited:
John79 said:
What did you hate about your Hanwei?
Click to expand...

Like others have said, the handle was horrible. Not because it broke on me, but because it was very thin (at least to me) and difficult to control that heavy of a head with such a thin handle. It certainly did not feel like a good hardwood like hickory. It felt like it flexed when swung, and really shocked the hell out of my arms when I hit something.

The head itself came with a bevel that was 45 degrees on each side. Yes, it was nice and polished, but it wouldn't stick into anything harder than a haybale when thrown.

After putting a rather obtuse convex edge on it with a file :eek: (so I didn't change the heat treat any -- but my hands sure hated me), it would stick great in wood, but the edge rolled if I looked at it hard.

Maybe i just got one made by The New Guy, and went straight from casting to hafting and missed the heat treat stage.

For something to look cool on the wall, it's great (they come with a really good pseudo antique finish). For a functional axe, I can't recommend it.
 
Here's regarding the diamond shaped bevel I'm assuming this is what you're talking about

axe_with_thicker_edge.jpg


Typically, axeheads had a wedge-shaped cross section. The cross section of the head near the edge was sometimes diamond shape, which provided for greater strength for a given weight of iron. (A modern reproduction is shown in the near left photo, while a photo of a historic axe head with that diamond edge profile is shown to the right.)
Click to expand...

http://www.hurstwic.org/history/articles/manufacturing/text/viking_axe.htm

Is this what you're talking about CPL?
 
No, that's what I was expecting to get.

Instead, the sides of the axe just abruptly ended in a very obtuse bevel. I'm sure it would cut skin, but any real use against a person would end in a lot of crushing damage, and not much cutting.
 
Oh I see what you mean. I wonder what steel and heat treatment they give those things, Hanwei's katana have always been top notch when it comes to solid durability and edge retention.
 
Cpl, it is a bit odd that the edge rolls like that on the one you had, the heat treat on mine is fairly good. Either I got lucky or you got a lemon.
 
John79 said:
Absilits, tell me about your experience with the Hanwei?
Click to expand...

Sorryfor the late reply, John, I don't get by this forum too often. There's really not much more I can add to what I said in the review I linked above. For myself, the axe has grown on me. I take it down to the target whenever I throw just for the fun of throwing it. I didn't have to reshape the edge like Cpl did, and haven't had any issues with the edge rolling or chipping.
I do think that tells us that the QC on these may be a bit spotty.
 
Cpl Punishment said:
Like others have said, the handle was horrible. Not because it broke on me, but because it was very thin (at least to me) and difficult to control that heavy of a head with such a thin handle. It certainly did not feel like a good hardwood like hickory. It felt like it flexed when swung, and really shocked the hell out of my arms when I hit something.

The head itself came with a bevel that was 45 degrees on each side. Yes, it was nice and polished, but it wouldn't stick into anything harder than a haybale when thrown.

After putting a rather obtuse convex edge on it with a file :eek: (so I didn't change the heat treat any -- but my hands sure hated me), it would stick great in wood, but the edge rolled if I looked at it hard.

Maybe i just got one made by The New Guy, and went straight from casting to hafting and missed the heat treat stage.

For something to look cool on the wall, it's great (they come with a really good pseudo antique finish). For a functional axe, I can't recommend it.
Click to expand...

You say the handle is pretty thin? Well before I buy something that makes my hands feel like giants about how "thin" is it width and depth wise if you dont mind my asking :cool:
 
Cpl Punishment said:
It was a bit thinner front to back, and felt a lot thinner side to side, compared to a Cold Steel haft.
Click to expand...

Oh no youre kidding right? damn.. and my CS trails handle is just right maybe even a little thicker would do but damn, sucks to hear that but i do appreciate the response and so quick too! thank ya much :cool:

Im probably wrong but the Hanwei Short Viking Axe's handle looks a bit thicker than the Short Bearded Axe but then again... I AM basing that off the magazine pictures lol.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top