Beckerhead Knife Making and Modification Thread

[Xr6x]

Nice work!

Gorgeous BK-10, X!

THANKS Guys

 

[GeofS]

My modded 10 gave it another bit of a nose job, deepened etch, striped with coating left under scales,waddle removed, sanded grind lines, edge of spine removed, has stock KA-BAR micarta with wood stain on em, and with black oxide stainless hardware lightly wire wheeled and with excess threads removed
View attachment 1335239 View attachment 1335240 View attachment 1335241 View attachment 1335243
Yes, there is a slight low grind mark on the Becker side it’s staying now done and ready for a natural patina
Post for others to help give ideas in case someone wants to mess around

Gorgeously striking mods!

 

[Xr6x]

Gorgeously striking mods!

Thanks GeofS

 

[knoefz]

End result of my hatchet restoration and sheath building project:

Remember, this is how I found it:

 

[daizee]

Nice Job!
Now git 'er dirty again!

 

[GeofS]

End result of my hatchet restoration and sheath building project:

Remember, this is how I found it:

Awesome job!

 

[knoefz]

Thanks guys.
This thread was a big inspiration to get started for me.

Nice Job!
Now git 'er dirty again!

I need to find some courage to make it dirty again

 

[The Warrior]

Nice work man. I need to mod my cs trail hawk.

 

[Xr6x]

End result of my hatchet restoration and sheath building project:

Remember, this is how I found it:

Very NICE WORK knoefz

 

[daizee]

This weekend's ill-advised detour: a knife forged out of a piece of grade-60 rebar (purchased new and marked), just to see how hard it would get, and shoved into a Nicholson size-E file handle.
Verdict: 55Rc out of quench and after 350F temper. It will cut. But not for long.

 

[1066vik]

Cute. And keep in mind, there are a lot of companies that still aim for 52-54 RC

 

[daizee]

True enough, and it's far from useless. It might cut like a Condor, for instance. But I can make a better-cutting blade with salvaged coil springs.
However, if my forge was long enough (don't have a place for coal), I'd consider beating a section of this rebar into a narrow light brush sword that might handle a little better than my hardware store Colombian machete. Good hardness for that. Next time I'll flatten out a little section and do a break test or two to see how tough it feels and to look at the grain. Might be better for small digging tools and the like. Probably too much carbon for tongs, which end up getting dipped in water a lot to cool them off. But maybe not?

 

[hawkhead]

This puukko was completed 5/10/20. The blade is 100mm x 20mm, the black ash burl handle has nickel silver bolsters with ebony and redheart spacers.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2iZDQsD]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2iZD9hS] https://www.flickr.com/photos/158694019@N03/[/url][/url]

 

[GeofS]

This puukko was completed 5/10/20. The blade is 100mm x 20mm, the black ash burl handle has nickel silver bolsters with ebony and redheart spacers.

So incredibly clean! A perfect Mother’s Day gift!

 

[1066vik]

True enough, and it's far from useless. It might cut like a Condor, for instance. But I can make a better-cutting blade with salvaged coil springs.
However, if my forge was long enough (don't have a place for coal), I'd consider beating a section of this rebar into a narrow light brush sword that might handle a little better than my hardware store Colombian machete. Good hardness for that. Next time I'll flatten out a little section and do a break test or two to see how tough it feels and to look at the grain. Might be better for small digging tools and the like. Probably too much carbon for tongs, which end up getting dipped in water a lot to cool them off. But maybe not?

I bet it'd work fine for a machete. For tong handles, you could wild mild steel jaws to it.

 

[daizee]

Hawk, that burl is amazing! Where'd you get that one?

 

[hawkhead]

Thank you daizee. All the burl I use comes from Thompson's Scandinavian Knife Supply.

 

[Xr6x]

This puukko was completed 5/10/20. The blade is 100mm x 20mm, the black ash burl handle has nickel silver bolsters with ebony and redheart spacers.

Very NICE hawk

 

[hawkhead]

Thanks Xr6x.

 

[JJ_Colt45]

Hey, I am hoping to get some advice from some of you DIY strippers and mod guys.

I was going to strip a couple blades while I have some free time soon but I thought I might try to deepen the logo a bit first. I recall reading a simple method using a battery charger with q-tips and a water/vinegar/salt solution. But I don't remember the process that was used to darken the etched letters after deepening the logo.

Anyone have a simple home DIY method for this? And what I will need to accomplish darkening the logo after deepening it? And what is the ratio of the solution I should mix to use to deepen the etching if anyone has the specifics before I do a trial and error approach?

Any help is greatly appreciated! I think I'll try it out on an old BK16 first and hoping to eventually finish one of my 18s and another of my 15s when I have the process down.

Thank JJ