Beckerhead Knife Making and Modification Thread

Thanks for the compliment. I'm sorry though, it bugged me quite instantly so I didn't waste much time and removed it once I had some time, haha! No in hand pics or vids. It's quite inexpensive though and it's D2 so if you want a little project I can absolutely recommend it.

I've got over modifying other makers knives. I've talked to some "big trader" guys here, and they said it's very common, and acceptable. Not rude (as long as we are Honest during sale) and as long as we are making them better like You did. :)

Seems like lots of makers have little hands, haha. :/
 
This scrap of O1 forged blade has been kicking around the shop for nearly a year.
Paired it with Micarta, copper spacer, and a bit of long-dried apple limb from my GF's tree:

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This scrap of O1 forged blade has been kicking around the shop for nearly a year.
Paired it with Micarta, copper spacer, and a bit of long-dried apple limb from my GF's tree:

IMG_20210418_162253-small.jpg


IMG_20210418_165800-small.jpg


IMG_20210418_180252-small.jpg


IMG_20210418_180708-small.jpg


IMG_20210418_184932-small.jpg


IMG_20210418_184948-small.jpg

Everything.....but I love how elegant that blade shape is!
Nice contrasts in Color, too
 

*lol*

I was over at The Botanist's, "walking the estate", and I pulled a dead limb out of the apple tree. Looked at it with some confusion. We went back and looked at pictures and then her stashes of dried limbs. She confirmed for me that I grabbed limbs from the wrong pile. The handle material is Euonymus/Burning Bush, NOT apple! :p

I DO have some of her apple too, but this wasn't it. Still, a very smooth, tight-grained wood. I'll use it again for knife or tool handles.
 
spent a couple hours at the forge today - made a B&T and started on a cleaver.
the 5"+ tang was drawn out of the end of the spring with the corners beveled.
ran out of arm before I could start hammering in the primary bevels.
grain augur scrap B and T.jpgleaf spring cleaver squared and handle drawn out.jpg
 
finished up the cleaver today.
left hammer marks and HT black on the flats for a 2-tone look, pins are stainless spiral shank masonry nails, scales are walnut, the handle was wiped down with danish oil and the whole thing has a coat of paste wax for travel.leaf pring cleaver done.jpg
 
sweet!
Please tell us that hole in the blade is 0.5" :cool:
(new forum emjoi suck - lacking... emo)
 
alas, no - it's only 1/4".
think small scale test run -- the lamb splitter is a project for a different weekend, AFTER I build a treadle or davinci hammer.
 
Commissioned chef for a small hand in AEB-L wearing ironwood over roarange G10. FINALLY done. Pardon the low-light pix on the truck trunk. Delivery was to my shop landlord/lady, so it didn't come home for next day daylight pix:

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Wowsers. Nice work!
 
Thanks, fellas!
(client chose that ironwood - good taste, she has!)
 
Hadn't forged in almost a year, so last weekend I warmed up the ol' "power hammer" ๐Ÿ’ชand tried to remind myself how steel heats, cools, and moves. This is what happened to a piece of 1/2" rebar:

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Have you considered doing a slightly longer and wider tail on those to make them cap and tab friendly? Like the cap lifter on a tl-29 or sak?
 
Have you considered doing a slightly longer and wider tail on those to make them cap and tab friendly? Like the cap lifter on a tl-29 or sak?

Yes.
The challenge is that thinning out the prong on the cap-lifter would then make it *awful* on pockets, or dangerous in a fall or something. I originally wanted to make that prong like a flat-head screwdriver (which would have worked great for tabs too) and didn't for the same reason.

Another possibility is to take the tapered, rounded-end tab-lifter version and put the cap-lifter on the side - in one of the two middle holes. Until that's worked out, the tapered tab-lifter can be used in the lever/lighter cap-popping technique.

On the forged rebar thing above, there's no pretension that it's going to fit in a pocket, so I just went for it.
 
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