Been eyeing a wicked edge for years, tax return coming

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Aug 31, 2017
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So needless to say I will be saving my tax return for car insurance but I figure that would get some posters in here. The deal is I should stop buying $200+ knives every so often and instead up my sharpening game to one of those professional systems (without the brace and motorized belts/rotors). I've been thinking about the Wicked Edge WE120 a while and wondering a few things. Maybe someone who has one can tell me if it's worth saving up for one, or just blow it a Spyderchief. Sure reviews on amazon and other sites tell me so much, but I know you guys have better input because of your sheer experience.

1. Is the 120 really worth $650~? Are you that satisfied with your edges it was worth that chunk of change.
2. Is it really as easy as videos show? You push the pallets down the blade and DONE? You don't round off the tips all the time?
3. Does it do recurves and hawkbills? I got to say that more than half my collection has either or, not even counting serrated, and I don't think it will be worth it if I can't do these. Why would I spend so much if I can only do half my knives?

I guess that's it. Is it worth it, it is easy (or will I have to learn all knew skills), and will it do blades that bend backerds. Thanks!
 
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The Wicked Edge isn't better than any of the other guided sharpeners imo. They all work on the same basic premise, albeit in slightly different configurations. Edge Pro, KME and Hapstone all have nice systems too and I wouldn't rule them out yet. Afaik, they can do all sorts of blades like tantos, recurves, etc. Usually they use a narrower stone for recurves.

They've all got a bit of a learning curve, so you can't just plop the blade down and start grinding away and expect to have a perfect mirror polished edge.

A lot of knives have a funky geometry from the factory just from the fact that they were sharpened by hand on a belt grinder. Often times with guided systems you'll find that 20 degrees works perfect on one side, but when you flip it over the stone only hits the back of the bevel on the other side. With some practice you develop an idea of how to approach each knife since they are all different. It's definitely best to practice on some old knives you don't care about.
 
I got my W.E. Go around Thanksgiving, and a digital angle gage. I added some finer grit ceramic stones as well. I would consider myself a novice, and all my prior sharpening was on a Sharpmaker. I literally had the hang of the W.E. after a couple knives. Did not ruin any knives. and the 4th knife I did was my prize Shirogorov F95T. Maybe I'm just stupid lucky, but it's really 'that easy.'

Having said that, a tight recurve is going to be a challenge on it. I just did an 8 1/2" bladed knife this weekend with a slight recurve - I wouldn't do anything tighter/shorter, but that's just my opinion. Maybe some guys do. That's the only recurve I own so this is not a consideration for me (and if I did own another I'd use the Sharpmaker).
 
Edge Pro Apex
Light, simple, inexpensive, . . . at least try one first.
When the Edge Pro fails to do anything I try to do I will start looking around . . . again.
I keep looking at other hand powered guided sharpeners because I love top shelf tools (think Proto, Knipex, Facom, Mitutoyo, Starrett . . . even those old Snap-On things ;) :rolleyes:) . . . but I have strong reservations about the other clamp sharpeners.
Call me crazy (but I'm a gear head).
 
a tight recurve is going to be a challenge on it.
Head's up Gritomatic offers round sharpening "Stones" for the Edge Pro.
Gets right in there.

Here is the description but the vendor doesn't support Blace Forums so I can't link you to them :
Ruby Extra-Fine Ceramic 6" x 0.5" Curved Sharpening Stone with Aluminum Mounting for Edge Pro 3,000 grit (For Recurve Blades)
 
You have one? A 130? Is it worth not getting 3 or 4 knives to spruce up ones I already have?

Head's up Gritomatic offers round sharpening "Stones" for the Edge Pro.
Gets right in there.

Here is the description but the vendor doesn't support Blace Forums so I can't link you to them :
Ruby Extra-Fine Ceramic 6" x 0.5" Curved Sharpening Stone with Aluminum Mounting for Edge Pro 3,000 grit (For Recurve Blades)
Let me link you to the level of recurve I'm dealing with on average. It's nothing radical, so maybe I can just do it lightly on the edge. There is only 400, 600, and the 3,000 you listed that are for curved blades.
NJNKZ1M.jpg

mkKWr4U.jpg

9TWW7sE.jpg
 
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It is the best guided system in my mind, I do not regret buying it at all. The biggest con about system is you need two of each new stone, strop, etc. If you want to add more it can add a good amount more cost.

It has so much going for it. It is repeatable using advance alignment guide to pretty precise if you want to touch up knife. I love the motion with two stones vs say KME using one and flipping knife around. It's almost a zen state for me sharpening a knife.
 
The biggest con about system is you need two of each new stone, strop, etc. If you want to add more it can add a good amount more cost.

You could of course use only one, swapping it right to left as needed. Alternating strokes are only needed for final deburring.
 
You could of course use only one, swapping it right to left as needed. Alternating strokes are only needed for final deburring.

Not sure how this is useful, considering W.E. only sells the stones and strops in pairs.
 
You could of course use only one, swapping it right to left as needed. Alternating strokes are only needed for final deburring.

It would add quite a bit of time I would think, and kinda ruins the signature motion of Wicked Edge. If this was the plan really Wicked Edge is not the right system to go for. If needing to save money I think best way would be get the Wicked Edge you want, and slowly add more stones, strops, etc.
 
You have one? A 130? Is it worth not getting 3 or 4 knives to spruce up ones I already have?


Let me link you to the level of recurve I'm dealing with on average. It's nothing radical, so maybe I can just do it lightly on the edge. There is only 400, 600, and the 3,000 you listed that are for curved blades.
NJNKZ1M.jpg

mkKWr4U.jpg

9TWW7sE.jpg
I cant speak for that model but I have the wicked edge go and its been completely worth it, once you have it you will be more confident with high end knife purchases because you will be able to maintain properly. It is easy to use but there is a learning curve as with any other sharpening system as well as limitations. I might get the upgraded model alter just so I can mount FFG blades easier. As far as the motion you use to sharpen you can do whatever you want you don't have to do the alternating stropping motion they advertise. I do scrubbing strokes one side at a time until I set the final shape of the bevel, then I do edge leading strokes one side at a time to align the teeth and get a consistent scratch pattern with each grit. I only do alternating strokes at the final stage of each grit to clan up the apex and remove any burr. Then I finish up with a couple strokes with a balsa strop. My tips come out very sharp on the WE, more then they did on the edge pro, however its possible to round them off if you don't use proper technique and you curve and drag the stone across the tip as you come off. What kind of knives you do have, size, grind type?
 
I have a F&S Pro for three years now and it has been doing a great job for what I need to sharpen. I don't think there is a sharpening system that will do everything everybody wants. You need to pick what you think is the best for you. Sharpeners are like TV networks there is not a single network that has everything you want to watch. If possible try to test them out before you buy one. Where I live the only sharpener that I could try was a Sharpmaker (nothing against them).
 
I almost forgot about this but check out Wicked Edges return policy - https://wickededgeusa.com/pages/return-policy . I did not have to test it as I loved mine but I think if you hated it for some reason they will take it back for a limited time with you paying return shipping.

Actually getting to use it will help a ton on deciding if you like it. You can get some cheap knives at Walmart if you don't have any laying around to test on and get familiar with it.
 
I bought my as-new Edge Pro Apex ~ four yrs ago and it's great. It works for everything I've ever tried. It is not expensive; new stones are not expensive. I have no need for something different or more expensive.
 
I cant speak for that model but I have the wicked edge go and its been completely worth it, once you have it you will be more confident with high end knife purchases because you will be able to maintain properly. It is easy to use but there is a learning curve as with any other sharpening system as well as limitations. I might get the upgraded model alter just so I can mount FFG blades easier. As far as the motion you use to sharpen you can do whatever you want you don't have to do the alternating stropping motion they advertise. I do scrubbing strokes one side at a time until I set the final shape of the bevel, then I do edge leading strokes one side at a time to align the teeth and get a consistent scratch pattern with each grit. I only do alternating strokes at the final stage of each grit to clan up the apex and remove any burr. Then I finish up with a couple strokes with a balsa strop. My tips come out very sharp on the WE, more then they did on the edge pro, however its possible to round them off if you don't use proper technique and you curve and drag the stone across the tip as you come off. What kind of knives you do have, size, grind type?

I have 99% pocket knives and I'd say all of them are either flat, hollow, or saber, with one serrated. My one kitchen knife is v and my fixed blade is that shempp rock and I guess that's saber too.
 
I have 99% pocket knives and I'd say all of them are either flat, hollow, or saber, with one serrated. My one kitchen knife is v and my fixed blade is that shempp rock and I guess that's saber too.
From my experience the wicked edge (depending on the model) is best for pocket knives 2.5-4 inch blade, with a hollow or saber ground so that clamping is foolproof, ffg blades require a bit more prep time to mount in the clamp. Sharpening serrated knives on any system requires special rods I believe. If someone had a bunch of long fixed blades, flexible kitchen knives, and FFG spydercos then I would recommend an edge pro style system. I really enjoy using the WE because the system requires the least amount of "stress" to operate, once a knife is clamped properly there is no strain of holding anything steady or worrying about it scratching up your blade. You can have a beer and watch netflix as you sharpen once you get used to it. If you're busy you don't have to commit to a full sharpening session, once you mount it you can leave it and come back later if you need to. Also from my experience their warranty is extremely good. The stones seem expensive at first at $80 a pair but they're really not considering that includes 4 diamond plates that are some of the highest quality and longest lasting. Feel free to ask me anything else about the system.
 
From my experience the wicked edge (depending on the model) is best for pocket knives 2.5-4 inch blade, with a hollow or saber ground so that clamping is foolproof, ffg blades require a bit more prep time to mount in the clamp. Sharpening serrated knives on any system requires special rods I believe. If someone had a bunch of long fixed blades, flexible kitchen knives, and FFG spydercos then I would recommend an edge pro style system. I really enjoy using the WE because the system requires the least amount of "stress" to operate, once a knife is clamped properly there is no strain of holding anything steady or worrying about it scratching up your blade. You can have a beer and watch netflix as you sharpen once you get used to it. If you're busy you don't have to commit to a full sharpening session, once you mount it you can leave it and come back later if you need to. Also from my experience their warranty is extremely good. The stones seem expensive at first at $80 a pair but they're really not considering that includes 4 diamond plates that are some of the highest quality and longest lasting. Feel free to ask me anything else about the system.
Ok I have one, now that you mention full flat grinds. Half my collection is spyderco and I'd say 1/3 of that is ffg. What's the trick? Glue it to a block of wood? Take it out of the handles and mount it by the radius?
 
Ok I have one, now that you mention full flat grinds. Half my collection is spyderco and I'd say 1/3 of that is ffg. What's the trick? Glue it to a block of wood? Take it out of the handles and mount it by the radius?
You might not have to do any of this with the WE130 but for the regular clamp I simply put several strips of duct tape on the part of the blade that will go into the clamp with an extra layer on the narrower part of the clamping surface. Then I have to adjust the two clamp screws for the proper tension so the blade is held solid and straight ( I tests if the blade is mounted perfectly straight using an angle cube), if I can't get the blade mounted both solidly and straight then I will just use the sharpie method and adjust the angle of each arm independently to account for if the blade is clamped slanted. Depending on the knife some can be mounted perfectly using the tape and others its simpler just to use the sharpie method. Other people use double sided tape, painters tape, chamois cloth, to mount ffg blades. Yes you can also take the knife apart and mount the blade by the flat portion but I have avoided doing this because its best to mount the blade somewhere in the middle to maintain an even angle across. Basically the hassle of ffg blades is simply a couple extra minutes of mounting and fidgeting around with the settings and then everything else is the same.
 
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