Gary W. Graley
“Imagination is more important than knowledge"
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Mar 2, 1999
- Messages
- 26,358
I've made a couple along this line, where the clips you can buy end up having the handle pretty high above your belt. This uses a copper rivet belt loop so the sheath will swivel out of your way when you go to sit down. Now the bubble wrap packaging can be used to make a rough template to get close to what you want to cut your leather to start with, so hang onto those packaging 
The knife is a Bradford Guardian 5.5 model in CPM3V steel and natural micarta contoured scales, the kydex is also from them but it is an extra thing to buy as it comes with a leather sheath, but I like how they do their kydex, very good quality and I recommend it.
Using the bubble wrap material I get a rough form for the leather shape I'll need, I want to wrap around to the back and go up so I can fasten the belt loop to that upper piece of leather;
Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr
backside showing the piece that swoops upward
Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr
Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr
laid down on some 8/9 oz leather, you want it to be rugged size leather so it doesn't wobble much if any while wearing.
Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr
utilizing two holes in the sheath, also for stability and adds a little attractiveness to the whole setup
Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr
Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr
on the hole that the copper rivet goes through, I take my ball peen hammer end and set it over the hole (while you 'might be able to' hammer the ball peen down, I'm just not that accurate!) and use my mallet to drive that ball peen down into the leather, this serves two purposes, it concaves the area so the rivet will set flush and also the compression of the leather adds some strength to that area, any time you strike leather you compress it and it's a little stiffer/stronger in that spot.
Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr
Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr
THAT is a very very old jar of mink oil/paste, I apply that on the back of the adapter before sliding on the belt loop, this will lessen the friction between the two.
Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr
Copper rivet and setter, has a hole to drive the washer down over the rivet
Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr
a pair of channel lock cutters to trim off the rivet
Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr
I added a nickel concho to dress up the front a little bit
Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr
and here you can see the belt loop swivels, with the rivet tight, it isn't a loose type of thing but will loosen up more after some wear, but not a lot.
Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr
I hope that give you guys/gals some ideas on adapting leather to your kydex sheaths, now the handle is just a little above the belt line making it easily accessible.
G2
The knife is a Bradford Guardian 5.5 model in CPM3V steel and natural micarta contoured scales, the kydex is also from them but it is an extra thing to buy as it comes with a leather sheath, but I like how they do their kydex, very good quality and I recommend it.
Using the bubble wrap material I get a rough form for the leather shape I'll need, I want to wrap around to the back and go up so I can fasten the belt loop to that upper piece of leather;
Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickrbackside showing the piece that swoops upward
Untitled by GaryWGraley, on FlickrUntitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickrlaid down on some 8/9 oz leather, you want it to be rugged size leather so it doesn't wobble much if any while wearing.
Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickrutilizing two holes in the sheath, also for stability and adds a little attractiveness to the whole setup
Untitled by GaryWGraley, on FlickrUntitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickron the hole that the copper rivet goes through, I take my ball peen hammer end and set it over the hole (while you 'might be able to' hammer the ball peen down, I'm just not that accurate!) and use my mallet to drive that ball peen down into the leather, this serves two purposes, it concaves the area so the rivet will set flush and also the compression of the leather adds some strength to that area, any time you strike leather you compress it and it's a little stiffer/stronger in that spot.
Untitled by GaryWGraley, on FlickrUntitled by GaryWGraley, on FlickrTHAT is a very very old jar of mink oil/paste, I apply that on the back of the adapter before sliding on the belt loop, this will lessen the friction between the two.
Untitled by GaryWGraley, on FlickrCopper rivet and setter, has a hole to drive the washer down over the rivet
Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickra pair of channel lock cutters to trim off the rivet
Untitled by GaryWGraley, on FlickrI added a nickel concho to dress up the front a little bit
Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickrand here you can see the belt loop swivels, with the rivet tight, it isn't a loose type of thing but will loosen up more after some wear, but not a lot.
Untitled by GaryWGraley, on FlickrI hope that give you guys/gals some ideas on adapting leather to your kydex sheaths, now the handle is just a little above the belt line making it easily accessible.
G2
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