Bench Vise Restoration Help

M

MRpink

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Sep 17, 2007
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Since making my first knife at a friend's shop, I've ordered a Delta 1"x42" belt sander/grinder, 19 belts, and some A2 steel. I still need to pick up things like files and better light fixtures. My garage has a bunch of old tools and I've had this old bench vise as long as I could remember. Over the last few years, I've only used it a few times, other then that, it's been rusting away.

I plan on fully disassembling it and cleaning it up. Anybody have any tips to help remove some of the rust, like soaking it in something? After I get most the rust off, I was planning on hitting it with some sandpaper to smooth it out and make it look presentable.

Here are some pictures.

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Also can anybody identity what brand this is? It's weighs a ton and the jaw action is still very smooth after all these years. The second picture shows a date stamp I think, "11 12 19", and there seems to be something right below it but all I can make out is a "1".
 
You could pull it apart and get it sand blasted but not the screw bits or you could soak them in deoxidine mixed with water for a few hours but keep you eye on it.

Richard
 
I'd agree with Garrett

Dissassemble it and soak it down with in WD-40, and let it rest for a couple of three hours... Wire brush all the rust off each piece, and give a light coating of WD-40 for a few more hours. Wire brush again, and clean with acetone, mineral spirits, etc. Paind the parts you want permanently protected, and grease the moving bits. Reassemble.

I would reccomend a brass wire brush on a bench grinder, or something similarly soft. The stainless brush on an angle grinder works, but it's really harsh.
 
Wow, great method. I have a giant vise I cant use because of rust at threads at the backyard. I might use that method for it. You have to be very careful about that hydrogen gas though.
 
I have used the electrolysis method for a couple years now, and have used it on dozens of things.

It is hands down the best way to remove rust from a ferrous material that you don't want to damage with abrasives.

I've used it on everything from an old framers square to the parts of an old drill press. I have a 36" Starrett straight edge that had some surface rust on it, and I obviously didn't want to use coarse abrasives.... cuz it wouldn't be straight anymore ;) This process worked like magic :)

I use a piece of 4X4 ss angle for the anode.
 
You can use any conductive piece of material as an anode. I've seen set-ups where the user had taken short pieces of rebar, put them vertically around the perimeter of the tank, and then used chain to connect them all.

The reason I prefer stainless, is because I can take it out, scotchbrite all the nasty gunk off, and use it again. If you use a simple black iron/mild steel like rebar, it will get ruined after a few uses.

It's best to use a wide piece of material. A thin anode with a broad surface area is best. I left some numbers out on my post above... the stainless angle I use is 4" X 4" X 0.060" It's thin, but has a LOT of surface area for the crud to be deposited onto.

I've been meaning to do a tutorial on here about this process, because it's so useful.... just haven't had/made the time.

Make sure your tank is a non-conductive material!!! Mine is just a 20 gallon plastic tote from the hardware store.

The "cleaning solution" is simple!!! Water and baking soda.

You can dip the negative (black) lead into the tank, just don't touch the anode to your part once you have current running.

I forgot to mention, I've used this process on two Wilton vises that needed some TLC, and it worked perfectly.

I've also used this process on an old post vise. I ran it through something like 7 cycles (80min each). It was so clean you could see all the scarfed and forge welded joints in it!!!

Remember, the part will look like hell when you first take it out of the tank!!! But a little scrubbing with grey or red scotchbrite, and it will be all spiffy. :D

Please post pics of your vise when you get it all done!!!
 
Just put a wire wheel cup in your drill and brush it clean. Then get yourself some hammerite paint. Get as much of the rust as you can, but don't worry about getting it to be like shiny new steel.

Hammerite soaks through thin rust and eliminates it, leaving a very durable coating. It will probably be the last time it ever gets painted.
 
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i rather enjoy finding old tools and giv'en them a little love, but to be honest, i'd epoxy a couple leather or make micarta jaws , or pour lead ones, hit with a wire brush at most and get to work, you could finish at least one knife in the time it would take you to go through that whole anadode electro yadda yadda crap.

while nick sounds like he's got a pretty cool setup, and actually id be interested in his tutorial on the process, if your just building some of your first knives, the cleanliness of your vise is the least of your issues.

only my opinion, good luck bro,
andrew
 
there is a product called evapo rust.....u just soak stuff in it and the rust comes right off....i have no idea how it works but it does....ryan
 
atakach said:
while nick sounds like he's got a pretty cool setup, and actually id be interested in his tutorial on the process, if your just building some of your first knives, the cleanliness of your vise is the least of your issues.

only my opinion, good luck bro,
andrew
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I agree, but I just put in the order for the grinder, belts, and steel, so they won't get here for at least another weak and I need to convert my very mess garage (or a corner of it) to my little shop/work area so I thought I'd clean the vise in the mean time while I clean up and wait for things to arrive. I don't even have a workbench yet, I'll be building that sometime next week. Plus, it'd feel kind of good to restore the ancient vise and put it back to good use. They don't build vises like they used to.
 
MRpink said:
I agree, but I just put in the order for the grinder, belts, and steel, so they won't get here for at least another weak and I need to convert my very mess garage (or a corner of it) to my little shop/work area so I thought I'd clean the vise in the mean time while I clean up and wait for things to arrive. I don't even have a workbench yet, I'll be building that sometime next week. Plus, it'd feel kind of good to restore the ancient vise and put it back to good use. They don't build vises like they used to.
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agreed then, as far as im concerened they dont build much of anything the way they use........well maybe with the exception of women, some reason the ones of today seem so much better built than the pic's of the ones from back in the day when that vice was new...lol;)

andrew
 
If you take it apart and soak it in vinegar for a couple days, it'll loosen all the rust. Neutralize the vinegar with a baking soda solution and if there's any crud left it'll brush off easily. I also use this for forging scale and mill scale. Saves on grinding belts.
 
:Di heard that if you take it soak it in water for three weeks, (slack tub) preferably, then take it out rub it down with fish oil, open the back door, then hurl it as far as you can out into the woods, but not pines or hemlocks you may spook the turkeys. then go to flea market and get another for like $20..........got my wilton there for like 25, and was like brand new. (guy didn't realize what he had.


sorry i am ashamed for this post , but every now and again i feel compeled to be a smart a$$

:oandrew:o

in all seriousness, i'd probably bead blast with a fine glass media, then slap a good coat of oil on then giv'er hell and break out the files and get working.
 
Everybody is free to do however they please :)

I choose to take great pride in my shop, my tools, and my work. :)
 
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