Benchmade 810 Contego - Nice blade

Joined
Mar 26, 2011
Messages
647
Howdy all,
I've been asking a lot of questions on the forums lately about this blade. I watched CrimesonTideShooter's Youtube vids, read all the posts about this blade and have been asking about M4 steel. I finally pulled the trigger, bought one and put the knife through some work. I've had it less than a week, but I used it to cut up cardboard, sharpened it and cut up more cardboard. I've been carrying it most of this week and now had some time to put this review together. I hope it answers some folks' questions about this blade. I'll update this post if more information becomes available.

Design: A-
I love a lot about this knife. It is big. The ergos fit my hands very well (I have med/large hands). It will probably be fine in large and/or gloved hands as well since I think it just fits my hands. The large choil offers an excellent grip with my fore and index fingers. The deep carry clip allows for a very hidden blade that is comfortable to carry and the carbide glass breaker is a nice touch. I feel that the Reverse tantos provide lots of cutting edge while allowing for a strong blade (most of the thickness remains throughout the blade, almost to the tip). Additionally, this blade allows for a thin cutting edge due to the high grind (further creating an efficient cutter). The G10 has aggressive texturing to allow for maximum grip and the axis lock is one of my favorites (behind the compression lock on the PM2). My only complaints are the jimping and the stainless backspacer. The jimping is just a bit to aggressive for me. If the goal was to create maximum traction/grip, then mission accomplished! For my bare hands, the jimping could have been toned down a bit. I am however, ok with the G10 texturing. I'm not sure why the backspacer is a solid chunk of stainless. The design could have simply gotten way with barrel spacers...but perhaps some mass was desirable to maximize the functionality of the glass breaker. These are small complaints IMO.

Closed: http://www.flickr.com/photos/64190874@N08/6951082756/
Centering: http://www.flickr.com/photos/64190874@N08/6951082680/in/photostream/
Opened: http://www.flickr.com/photos/64190874@N08/7097439857/
Deep Carry: http://www.flickr.com/photos/64190874@N08/6951082428/in/photostream

Fit and Finish: B+
It seems the Black Class knives (which this is) is function over form and Blue class is form over function. Both classes are highly functional and attractive...don't get me wrong. It just seems the different classes prioritize different things. Although the bushings in the blade are smooth, the finish of the axis bar and back of the blade were a bit rougher than I'm use to. This will smooth out over time, but I was a bit surprised by what I received. The blade still easily flicked out with minimal effort and was smooth so this is a footnote more than anything else. Grinds are even and blade coating is attractive (black). Lockup is solid with ZERO blade play and for such a long blade, this is an accomplishment. I have no complaints about F&F, but I expect BM to be flawless...so it gets a B+ for being a little rough.

Blade Steel: A
Let’s face it…the blade defines the knife, and the steel defines much of the blade. CPM M4 is a great steel. In the few days I’ve had this blade, I have not been able to get it to the same level of sharpness as my PM2/M390 or Endura4/ZDP189…but that may change once I learn M4’s secrets (I can still get it hair whittling sharp…but it takes more effort). It seems BM runs this harder in the Contego than in previous models at RC 62-64 (although this is my first blade in M4). In a qualitative test, I cut a lot of cardboard (maybe 3 boxes worth) against the grain and the blade could still cut telephone book paper…but just barely. Before the test, the blade was hair whittling sharp and the bevel was set at 15 deg/side. After cleaning up the blade it cut the phone book paper a little easier, but the edge had clearly been affected. As a comparison, I have cut much less cardboard with M390 and ZDP189 than what I did in this test and have seen more MICRO chipping in those two steels than I saw in this M4. I am not calling M390 or ZDP189 “chippy” or saying that M4 is more wear resistant than M390 or ZDP189…I’m just saying that M4 is more chip resistant in my test than the other 2 steels.

Pile of cardboard: http://www.flickr.com/photos/64190874@N08/7097152155/in/photostream/

Cerakote: B-
I’ve always liked the look of uncoated blades. I’d prefer that a blade get a nice patina than have a worn, blackened blade. I did however want to test out the Cerakote so I got the black vs. the clear (which is not yet available anyway) so I could see if the Cerakote was wearing. After cutting the cardboard, I definitely saw wear just above the bevel of each side of the blade. The Cerakote held up ok…but it is not the uber-coating I was hoping for. I have not deliberately cut this much cardboard with my DLC blade (Combative Edge M1), but I feel that the DLC will wear better than the Cerakote…or at least will look better when it does wear. I will say that the Cerakote is better than the black Teflon coating that BM has previously used…so it is an improvement over what I feel is a cheap black coating (BT coating).

After cutting, right side:http://www.flickr.com/photos/64190874@N08/7097192139/
After cutting, left side:http://www.flickr.com/photos/64190874@N08/6951122606/in/photostream/
After cleaning blade right side:http://www.flickr.com/photos/64190874@N08/7097192017/in/photostream/
After cleaning blade left side:http://www.flickr.com/photos/64190874@N08/6951122294/in/photostream/

Overall: A-
I feel the Contego is a complete package that offers a tough blade with maximum possible grip/purchase to the user. If I had to go to places unknown with only 1 folder (why I don’t know…but IF), this would be amongst my top contenders for toughness, edge retention and ease of sharpening (it is easy to sharpen to functional sharpness…I personally just have difficulty getting it hair whittling sharp). The blade shape and steel provide a very tough package that begs to be used…and used hard. However, the geometry of the blade still provides a nice slicer and the deep pocket clip makes it a discreet EDC (albeit LARGE and somewhat intimidating to some). If you are thinking about getting this blade, I recommend it and think that you will not be disappointed. I would however opt for the clear Cerakote…so when it wears it still looks pretty.
 
I found the handle to be a disaster in ergonomics. Otherwise (materials of construction etc...)
 
Just a quick update after more cleaning and edge repair:

Resharping:
The edge dulling from the above test was largely/solely rolling...no chipping that I could detect at all. After stropping for less than 5 minutes, the edge was again smoothly cutting phone book paper and I could not feel any rolls/chips when I dragged my finger nail across the cutting edge. After 10 minutes of stropping on Chromium Oxide then bare leather, the edge was again shaving sharp. No stones required! More time was required to gain hair whittling sharp...but I think I'm still learning how to effectively strop on this blade shape.

Cerakote Update:
Even though there was more wear than I would have liked on the coating, the Cerakote that did remain was relatively undamaged. I was expecting lots of scratching and damage on the coating...but after more cleaning with 409 and soap, I could only detect faint wear in the coating. I think I'll adjust my above grade to a B up from a B-.

I am very impressed with this version of BM's M4. I seems to be giving my favorite steels a run for their money...and doing it at a great price and in a production model.
 
Gunsnknives, my experience with it has been identical to yours. I too found the jimping too rough, and I have mine at 30 inclusive and found that it doesn't quite get as sharp as the sharpest knives I own. I will have to do some more tweaking, and see if I can change that.
 
Mine is on the way this week - can't wait. This will be the first "super" steel blade I've gotten since back in the day when s30v was so regarded. :)
 
Got mine yesterday and used it today - couldn't be more pleased. I used it to clear out some branches and saplings around some trees and couldn't be more impressed or surprised. Why surprised? Because it cut much better than I thought it would. You see while it felt sharp out-of-the-box and would shave, it didn't really shave all that well. It went through those branches and saplings though as if they were butter - and some of them were nearly half an inch in diameter. I don't know if it was because of the edge profile or what, but snap cuts were effortless. I know I lightly dinged the edge on a rock at least once but there is absolutely no damage and I looked under magnification. This puppy is definitely a keeper!
 
Hiking Update:

So I took this blade out hiking with the family. Nothing major. I just took down some branches and whittled the bark off. Then I smoother out the branches so they didn't hurt the kiddies' fingers. Then I whittle more...for the sake of whittling and playing. Here's a small update:

Cerakote:
I don't like coated blades. It is wearing off and I'll probably end up stripping the darn think. I don't see a strong need to get the "Clear" Cerakote since it sounds like it is actually gray...not clear. Or maybe the clear comes off as gray. Either way, I would have prefered a bare blade version if it existed.

CPM M4:
Great steel - tough...rolls instead of chips...easy to resharpen. Having said that, I think I prefer the edge that M390 and ZDP189 takes over M4. I don't know if M390 and ZDP189 are just more aggressive cutters...but I like the edge of those 2 steels better. I've figured out how to effectively strop M4 now...it's just not taking as great an edge as the other 2 steels.

Fit & Finish:
The opening of the blade is buttery smooth now. No blade play whatsoever and I don't baby my knife at all. Honestly, I beat on this thing more than I would my Millie or PM2. It just feels (and so far behaves) that beefy/robust.

Design:
The jimping, although more aggressive than I'd like, has yet to be and issue or cause hotspots. That includes the cardboard cutting test done in the initial review. Also the blade shape lends itself well to slicing while maintaining a robust tip. I've done some light prying with the tip...no damage or bending yet...and that's with a fine, 15 deg/side tip.

Glass Breaker:
If anyone has any experience using this thing, please update us so we know if this thing is legit or just a marketing tool. I'm not claiming one or the other...but I haven't tested it.
 
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I agree with you on the Cerakote... it definitely isn't what it is cracked up to be. With light use it has plenty of scratches already. As to the glassbreaker, I had a scanner that was old and needed to be thrown out. I decided to test the glassbreaker on the glass screen at about 50% strength. I hit it maybe 20 times, but didn't want to go harder without some cut-resistant gloves. It spiderwebs but never went through. I wonder if it was special reinforced glass or something. From my VEHEXT classes, I remember car windows being pretty easy to break (not the windshield though)
 
Well...I cannot leave well enough alone. Since this is a production blade, and not some "rare as frog hair" sprint run, I don't feel bad tinkering with it. Anyway, I wanted to apply a patina to the blade where the coating wore off to see if I could mask the wear. So I soaked it in some mustard. The blade got a little darker, but not really what I wanted. So I soaked the blade in some 300 grain vinegar (30% acetic acid - most consumer vinegar is 5% vinegar). After a few hours, there was no real darkening of the blade so I let it sit overnight. :eek:...The Cerakote got all bubbly and started to flake off. So I learned 2 things:
1. CPM M4 takes some time and patience to patina. I've seen it done, but it is not as easy as my Cold Steel Carbon V hunter (I don't know what Carbon V is...maybe it's close to 1095?)
2. Cerakote is tolerant, but not impervious to chemicals.

Point #2 above is great...since I really wanted a bare blade to start with! Again, I'm glad I got black so I could easily see the coating. So...after some pealing, scraping and sanding, here is where I am today:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/64190874@N08/7213040604/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64190874@N08/7213044072/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64190874@N08/7213038334/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64190874@N08/7213037040/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64190874@N08/7213041780/in/photostream/

You probably can't tell in my pics (since I don't have a cool camera like a lot of you), but the butterfly logo, Osbourne logo and "CPM M4" are actually etched/engraved in the blade, so that all stayed after I stripped the blade. I think that's cool since it is tastefully done.

Anyway, I have to go back and sharpen the blade. I'll probably go convex and put a zero edge on it for fun.
 
Nice job stripping the blade. However, you will have to be vigilant about rust now. I find DLC to be the best coating, however proper DLC is hard to come by.
 
Man...I really wanted to like this knife. The design, construction, and materials all were a winner for me but when I went to handle one in the store, the ergos didn't match my hand at all. I still definitely want this knife, especially after your review.

Glad to hear you're liking the blade.
 
Mine should be here next week. I'll definitely convex the edge, but probably won't strip it.

Sounds like M4 prefers a toothy edge similar to D2.
 
Gunsnknives- I have been looking for pics (or anything) regarding a stripped Contego for some time. I'm super excited to hear that the markings remain after the Cerakote since that's what has kept me from experimenting.

Can you please tell me more about how to remove the coating? I have access to ferric chloride acid and regular strength vinegar, oh and plenty of sandpaper. ;)

Basically, if you were me how would you go about it? I'd just use straight sandpaper but I'm worried about removing the markings. I also have access to a cabinet blaster with glass media, but again, the markings.

Thanks for posting the pics and info. I want to strip mine as soon as possible. :)
 
Strigamort,

The markings remained because I chemically removed the cerakote. I'd stay away from sandpaper or blasting else markings would be removed. I recommend soaking in vinegar overnight.

Good luck and show us pics when you're done :)
 
That's interesting because I've read about people trying a huge number of different things, chemical wise, and have never seen a report with success.

I'm going to disassemble my 810 and start right now. I'll report back on my progress. I really hope this works. ;)
 
Well, if I'm honest, if I didn't see your blade stripped, I never would have believed that vinegar would remove Cerakote.

I soaked my blade for around 30 hours in 5% vinegar. After some scraping with a cheap s&w blade here's where I stand.

IMAG1853_zpsaca8629c.jpg


I believe it is possible because the blade is being etched under the coating which breaks the bond.

Going with 5%, there is an obvious difference between yours and mine. While I'm far from done, the lack of chromium (which is what makes stripping possible) will pit and slightly corrode the m4. The markings are easily seen, but I'm not sure that this will be the case by the time I'm done.

Overall I like it. The coating was the one thing that drove me crazy and I may be able to clean it up to the point that I love it.

I'll keep ya posted. :)
 
I found the handle to be a disaster in ergonomics. Otherwise (materials of construction etc...)

lol what? How could a handle be an "ergonomic disaster"?

Might be blowing it a little bit out of proportion my friend.
 
lol what? How could a handle be an "ergonomic disaster"?

Might be blowing it a little bit out of proportion my friend.

While I enjoy the ergos, I can see why someone might describe it as such. This is a knife that either seems to work for a person or really not work at all. It's probably the most aggressively designed handle I've ever had outside of cheap swap meet marvels from when I was a kid.

Anyway, a little progress after about an hour of sanding. Thankfully those markings are pretty deep, unfortunately so is the pitting. :o

IMAG1857_zps097594cb.jpg
 
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