Benchmade 940 custom scale material question

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Apr 30, 2014
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Looking over the photos at Custom Scale Division I've noticed the nice wood scale replacements on the 556 like this one:

minigrip_imbuja_5-637x425.jpg


I was curious if wood scales like these would be possible on the 940. I know the 556 has almost full size metal liners while the liner/axis lock part is much narrower on the 940. Has anyone done this before? All the 940 custom scales I have seen seem to be G10, titanium or carbon fiber...
-Tim
 
I had stumbled upon the customized photos that deathofallthings and Keyman uploaded but never managed to find an example of 940 wood scales. I suppose I can message them directly and ask questions.
 
I have thought about the same thing but looking at my 940, the screws go through one scale and screw into the other scale. Threading in the scale itself by the looks of it. I don't see wood working too well for that.
I have Cuscadi wood on a Para 2, and would love some on my 940 or 943, but I just think it wouldn't be feasible.

Shame Euro's are so expensive or I would have more Cuscadi wood on my folders.
 
When I do custom scales for 940s, I put screws in from both sides that thread into the stainless barrel spacers, just like benchmade does with the 940-1. The problem with wood is just that it's not strong enough in 1/8 thickness. I don't even really trust micarta for my custom 940 scales. I've only been working in G10 and carbon fiber with those. I've considered maybe laminating 1/16th of wood on top of 1/16 Of G10... but even that I'm not sure of. I'll have to experiment a bit.
 
This is my take and no idea if it helps or not.

Not sure if this would be possible, but I think the final package would come out better if you did a custom aluminum, G10, CF, or ti scale that is designed for wood inlays in a fashion such as the standard inlay Sebenza with the two slim pieces of wood or the old Annual Sebenza with a wood inlay that covers the entire side of the handle. Something like 3M's VHB tape is what bonds the ti to wood. The Sebenza does this because it makes the knife slimmer and still allows the robust titanium to be on the handle.

A full wooden handle in this case may have some structural issues and present some challenges in terms of long-term wear if there arent supportive liners and the wood itself is made to stay thin. Staying thin would be difficult. Someone such as Ryan is making very high-quality handles out of a variety of materials. They look really good and work exceptionally well. One of these models with the front liner machines for a wooden inlay on the dominant side would look spectacular, and last forever. G10, ti, CF, and aluminum are all good candidates for this because of how strong and durable these materials are.

Another wood inlay look you may like is how the Benchmade 705BW does it (my favorite knife). It would be a little more tricky here given the handle is not flat, but not impossible. The interesting thing about this inlay is that it can be changed pretty easily. Benchmade later used this inlay fashion on multiple 707's, such as the 707 M390 blue with a CF inlay.

The other advantage I see to an inlay is that G10, aluminum, and titanium are very durable and can be cleaned up using a variety of methods (ex: sandblast titanium back to 100% cosmetic finish). Thinner wood such as what would need to be used on this handle would have more limited options for cosmetic finishing. If the wood is damaged or beaten up badly, replacement is much easier with an inlay versus having to have new liner/drill/lock fitting/spacer-standoff fitment/etc.

Ryan's CF 940 handle with a nice wood inlay like Walnut or Chestnut would me IMHO one of the prettiest mods in BM history. If you did that, I think your knife would become a Google celebrity as people would be sharing it like crazy.
 
When I do custom scales for 940s, I put screws in from both sides that thread into the stainless barrel spacers, just like benchmade does with the 940-1. The problem with wood is just that it's not strong enough in 1/8 thickness. I don't even really trust micarta for my custom 940 scales. I've only been working in G10 and carbon fiber with those. I've considered maybe laminating 1/16th of wood on top of 1/16 Of G10... but even that I'm not sure of. I'll have to experiment a bit.

Am I correct in assuming the most difficult part of an all wood scale would be the thin area where the relief is milled out for the Axis-Lock omega spring? If so would 1/16" G10 be enough to support the wood in that area?
 
I know to take your words to the bank, Dude. I've seen your work, and its awesome.
When I do custom scales for 940s, I put screws in from both sides that thread into the stainless barrel spacers, just like benchmade does with the 940-1. The problem with wood is just that it's not strong enough in 1/8 thickness. I don't even really trust micarta for my custom 940 scales. I've only been working in G10 and carbon fiber with those. I've considered maybe laminating 1/16th of wood on top of 1/16 Of G10... but even that I'm not sure of. I'll have to experiment a bit.
 
Am I correct in assuming the most difficult part of an all wood scale would be the thin area where the relief is milled out for the Axis-Lock omega spring? If so would 1/16" G10 be enough to support the wood in that area?

Well, I was looking at it from the point of view of what is safe. That area is supported by the steel liners and the screws. So while it could crack through the wood into the spring pocket area the theory was that the liners would still keep it strong structurally. With solid wood, I worry about the whole back half of the knife breaking off. Not only that but wood that thin, no matter how stable could warp. I don't know, like I said, I don't like the wood idea for 940s at all. I don't think my laminated idea is all that great either. Like stated above... and inlay might be the best we can do for wood on a 940. Only other options would be to go thicker... or machine full sized liners which would be a ton of extra work.
 
Well, I was looking at it from the point of view of what is safe. That area is supported by the steel liners and the screws. So while it could crack through the wood into the spring pocket area the theory was that the liners would still keep it strong structurally. With solid wood, I worry about the whole back half of the knife breaking off. Not only that but wood that thin, no matter how stable could warp. I don't know, like I said, I don't like the wood idea for 940s at all. I don't think my laminated idea is all that great either. Like stated above... and inlay might be the best we can do for wood on a 940. Only other options would be to go thicker... or machine full sized liners which would be a ton of extra work.
Another option would be Dymondwood...
 
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