benefits of scandi compared to full flat grind

S

s7brad

Joined
Jan 3, 2008
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Hey everybody, I am looking to score a blind horse model for the holidays, either bushcrafter or new brumby, and was wondering if you could help me with the grind. I like the looks of the scandi and have heard a lot about the grind as being good with woodwork but have no experience with one. Never had a problem with a flat on my Esee4 or Pasayten and ask for more info. Blade with be used for general bushcraft and food prep. Maybe even cleaning game. Any advice would be appreciated, thanks.
 
The scandi will be better for woodwork, the flat grind for slicing/food prep/game prep. Having said that, my RC-3 and Izula do just fine carving, and my Moras have gotten lots of kitchen use. Neither one is "bad" at anything.
 
IMO Scandi's will go through wood slightly better but are more prone to micro chipping. If you have always been happy with your flat ground blades they why change, BHK do really nice flat ground blades.
 
Thanks guys. That was kinda my feeling as well, just wondered if I was missing out on something and wanted to cover the grind spectrum. FFG bushcrafter is my frontrunner but still a lot of time before xmas.
 
I prefer a FFG. I think they cut much better, and sharpen up easier and quicker.
 
Carolina River Rat said:
The scandi will be better for woodwork
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+1 to this! I like my scandi edge to be completely flat right to the edge except for the slightest micro bevel put on by a strop. Just sharpening a few sticks I couldn't believe how much better the scandi was than any other grind.

I only have 2 Mora knives . . . well, until the 3 new ones arrive. If I had the money I'd get a nice custom knife with full tang and a scandi grind. If you are making tent pegs or traps or anything at all involving carving wood then the scandi grind really does work better. Even my Spyderco Endura has a scandi grind (I was a sabre grind before I took to it with an XXC DMT).
 
What sort of wood are you intending to work with the knife?

Remember, the Scandi grind originated in countries where soft woods dominate. So if you are only going to be working with softwoods then a zero grind Scandi will work fine :thumbup:

In my experience they do not cope well with seasoned harwoods without the addition of a more obtuse secondary bevel to strengthen the edge :D




Kind regards
Mick
 
SouthernCross said:
What sort of wood are you intending to work with the knife?

Remember, the Scandi grind originated in countries where soft woods dominate. So if you are only going to be working with softwoods then a zero grind Scandi will work fine :thumbup:

In my experience they do not cope well with seasoned harwoods without the addition of a more obtuse secondary bevel to strengthen the edge :D




Kind regards
Mick
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Excellent point, Mick, and one that I hadn't considered before. I live in mostly pines and the zero edge does fine. Never tried carving on some teak or ipe or similar before.
 
SouthernCross said:
What sort of wood are you intending to work with the knife?

Remember, the Scandi grind originated in countries where soft woods dominate. So if you are only going to be working with softwoods then a zero grind Scandi will work fine :thumbup:

In my experience they do not cope well with seasoned harwoods without the addition of a more obtuse secondary bevel to strengthen the edge :D




Kind regards
Mick
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I agree 100% :thumbup:
 
s7brad said:
Thanks guys. That was kinda my feeling as well, just wondered if I was missing out on something and wanted to cover the grind spectrum. FFG bushcrafter is my frontrunner but still a lot of time before xmas.
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I have the FFG Bushcrafter in O1. I think you will be very happy with it.
 
I have had a slight convex sharpening on all my GP knives for a long time, a flat grind tends to stick in some wood.

Really a matter of taste otherwise.

TLM
 
Mick makes an excellent point, and it is probably the reason why I haven't really gotten into Scandi's. Seems like after most uses, I have to spend quite a bit of time realigning the edge on mine.
 
The thinner the edge, scandi, convex, or full flat the more prone to damage but the better it cuts.

The steeper an edge is scandi, convex or full flat the less efficiently it cuts and but the less prone to damage the edge is.

Personally I've spent hours trying to thin out the edge on some of the blades I have that are flat ground with a steep secondary on them. With limited success.

However I've been much more successful at putting a bit thicker edge on one that is a bit too thin for my use.

It's a personal preference really.

In my opinion the main difference between a scandi and a flat ground is if they are the same thickness at the SPINE the scandi blade should be a bit less prone to snapping off since the blade is full thickness and the bevel does not run up as high as a flat ground.

But if you've never had one I'd say buy the scandi just so you know if you like them or not.
 
I know where I live Pines dominate, so I go either way. I do sometimes just go with scandi just because most of my scandis are Moras, but mainly FFG.
 
hollowdweller said:
The thinner the edge, scandi, convex, or full flat the more prone to damage but the better it cuts.

The steeper an edge is scandi, convex or full flat the less efficiently it cuts and but the less prone to damage the edge is.
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After using many FFG, Convex, and Scandi Grind knives; I find the above to be 100% fact.

In regards to what works better for me; I will choose Scandi Grind on a knife with a sub 5" blade any day of the week. Convex would be my 2nd choice.
 
tonym said:
After using many FFG, Convex, and Scandi Grind knives; I find the above to be 100% fact.

In regards to what works better for me; I will choose Scandi Grind on a knife with a sub 5" blade any day of the week. Convex would be my 2nd choice.
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Agree. I have a 3/32" convex that cuts like a scandi. I also tried a full flat grind with no secondary that Dan Koster made once and it cut excellent also.

The only blades I really don't care for that much are any blade that has a fairly steep secondary edge or any blade that is coated or has a big ass choil on it.
 
hollowdweller said:
Agree. I have a 3/32" convex that cuts like a scandi. I also tried a full flat grind with no secondary that Dan Koster made once and it cut excellent also.
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Yup, Dan has a great FFG, as well as NWA:thumbup:

Koyote has a sick Convex/Scandi grind that cuts amazing!!

But out of the production knives I handled;
FFG grinds have thicker edges and don't cut as well as a convex or Scandi. BHK has a great FFG but my Boat Tail Scandi by them cut better.

BRKT had some of the best convex grinds out of the box that I have handled.
 
tonym said:
Yup, Dan has a great FFG, as well as NWA:thumbup:

Koyote has a sick Convex/Scandi grind that cuts amazing!!

But out of the production knives I handled;
FFG grinds have thicker edges and don't cut as well as a convex or Scandi. BHK has a great FFG but my Boat Tail Scandi by them cut better.

BRKT had some of the best convex grinds out of the box that I have handled.
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Yeah true I think that's why the confusion. Most full flat ones have a steep secondary on them, where most scandis don't so people think the scandi cuts better when it's more just the way the maker did it.

BRKT comes close to your average scandi on cutting efficiency. Why they are so popular I think. However my only dislike on them is the spines on them are usually thicker than 1/8" so the slicing aspect suffers.
 
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