Best available POURABLE clear epoxy......

Russ Andrews

Russ Andrews

Knifemaker
Joined
Nov 27, 2002
Messages
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For more than a few years, i have used Brownells Acraglass for narrow tang handles. It used to set up
clear, but no more. Now it's an opaque yellow....which alone isn't a problem, but the clear resin
solidifies and becomes a milky opaque....So.....is there a POURABLE epoxy that remains clear and has good shelf life...?
 
Yup. Stupid acraglas. I have two gallons of it that are no good. Ugh.

Moved to West Systems. They have a clear hardener that works with their resin. I don't know if this is any help to you but I like the product for our use here.
 
I used West systems at John White's recommendation a while back. It worked quite well for full tang handles, but was a bit thick for what i wanted....
Which product do you use...?
 
West Systems looks clear and is very thin and pourable. However, I lightly soaked some tanto ito wraps. On the darker ito there were no issues, but on the white one, it is obvious that it turned yellow over time (couple weeks).
 
There are different West Systems epoxies. The West Systems G/Flex seems popular here but is probably not what you want. The 105 resin combined with the 207 special clear hardener is thin and pourable. The fast (205) and slow (206) West Systems hardeners will turn reddish brown over time. I use the 105 resin for everything and thicken it with colloidal silica and other thickeners when I don't want a runny epoxy.
 
West systems has a special clear 207 hardener. That's probably what you're looking for.
 
If it's turning yellow or darkening over time after curing then its likely from UV degradation or too much catalyst. All "epoxy" will degrade from UV light. The only real way to avoid this if it is exposed is to use a urethane, polyurea, polyaspartic or acrilic resin. Keep in mind that epoxy almost always has a better bond strength then the others mentioned. There are some water based epoxies that are much better at resisting yellowing but I have yet to see any that are 100% solids so won't shrink when curing

If it's darkening over time in the can before use then it is almost always the catalyst, often times part B, oxidizing.

Of course if it is not clear from the factory then nothing short of a different resin will help or not using a clear resin. Pigment in the resin can help to some degree by blocking the depth of UV penetration
 
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I use System Three Clear Coat. Very thin and pourable/brushable.
I haven't used it, but I read about others using pourable Bar Top Epoxy.

When doing ito, you only use a tiny amount brushed on. It should wick into the ito and look dry almost immediately. If the ito looks wet at all, wrap with a soft cotton cloth (old tee-shirt) and squeeze hard to suck up any excess. Even though it looks dry, once the epoxy cures the ito will be solidly held in place. What you don't want is a tsuka-maki that looks and feels like it has a hard coat of epoxy on it.
 
i put my gflex epoxy in a dixie cup, then float the dixie cup in a much larger cup of hot water for a minute. it gets thinner when its warm and the bubbles rise out of it faster.
 
Hubert S. said:
There are different West Systems epoxies. The West Systems G/Flex seems popular here but is probably not what you want. The 105 resin combined with the 207 special clear hardener is thin and pourable. The fast (205) and slow (206) West Systems hardeners will turn reddish brown over time. I use the 105 resin for everything and thicken it with colloidal silica and other thickeners when I don't want a runny epoxy.
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Good to know. I used the little "repair packs" which are 105/205. Looks like I should have got the 207 hardener to keep it clear.
 
I have a bunch of system three mirror coat and it's crystal clear - it's a bar top coating so not sure how it works on handles though, but I wouldn't hesitate to use it to fill voids on wood or something
 
The mirror coat is also excellent on wrapped handles. The Clear Coat comes in a 12oz. kit, which is much cheaper than the larger mirror coat packages. Shelf life is amazing on the System Three resins.


Paracord, ito, cloth, hemp, etc. .. all do well with an absorbed coat of resin. The effect should look like there is no resin there , but the wrap is a solid assembly that can't unravel.
 
razor-edge-knives said:
I have a bunch of system three mirror coat and it's crystal clear - it's a bar top coating so not sure how it works on handles though, but I wouldn't hesitate to use it to fill voids on wood or something
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Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
The mirror coat is also excellent on wrapped handles. The Clear Coat comes in a 12oz. kit, which is much cheaper than the larger mirror coat packages. Shelf life is amazing on the System Three resins.


Paracord, ito, cloth, hemp, etc. .. all do well with an absorbed coat of resin. The effect should look like there is no resin there , but the wrap is a solid assembly that can't unravel.
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First: Dammit, now you tell me! (thanks, good to know for the future).
Stacy, regarding the prices: Amazon has 1.5 pint sizes of both Clear Coat and Mirror Coat, and right now Mirror Coat is actually cheaper ($37 vs $45).
 
You want something stronger and clearer then all those already listed? Go to polymer composites http://www.polymercompositesinc.com/ and they will have what you need and probably for a better price.
Give them a call and ask for Gerald, he is the chemist and owner. Nice guy and very helpful
 
Yes, the mirror coat in the larger size is cheaper by the ounce. It is mostly a factor of how long it will take you to use up 24 ounces. I think the tinner mirror coat has more solvent (glycidyl either), which lowers the cost.
 
AVigil said:
You want something stronger and clearer then all those already listed? Go to polymer composites http://www.polymercompositesinc.com/ and they will have what you need and probably for a better price.
Give them a call and ask for Gerald, he is the chemist and owner. Nice guy and very helpful
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Thanks, they seem to have some products that they claim are crystal clear and even food safe.
 
Richard338 said:
Thanks, they seem to have some products that they claim are crystal clear and even food safe.
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I have been using them for years. The Max CLR I use for my wraps impact resistent and food safe. Their formulations are not just a boat epoxy for fiberglass being used for other things.

I have posted this before. Here I am beating it with a hammer
 
On a whim, after seeing another knife maker do it, I decided to try making my own scales with the MirrorCoat and an herb blend. Seemed to work really well, crystal clear and self leveling - voids don't seem to be an issue. I'm not sure on strength like the AVigil AVigil test above though. Also I don't think it's UV stable as they don't recommend to use it on outdoor furniture or stuff.

i-MMBMBWQ-X2.jpg
 
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