Best axe ever made

[Aj35]

Hello all,
My name is Aidan I am a new member but have bean on this forum many times in the last year. I enjoy collecting and restoring vintage axes I have restored a plumb victory boys axe (created just after ww2), a Collins homestead hatchet (unsure of when it was made), and a warren double bit axe from the warren line (says warren in cursive letters, I believe it was made in 1942 as it has a stamp saying W 42). I have saved up a bit of money and am interested in finding one of the best vintage axe's ever made to restore and use. I have done A LOT of research and have found little information on this topic, although Collins legitimus line and the warren sager chemical axes have bean mentioned as very high quality. I am looking for a brand as well as a specific line. Any help or advice is appreciated, thank you all in advance.

P.S. if I break any forum rules or have posted this incorrectly please tell me it is not my intention to do anything that would cause any issues.

 

[Steve Tall]

I think that we can narrow it down to the best brands or lines of axes for each manufacturer. (To reduce it further, to THE best manufacturer, would largely be a matter of opinion, IMHO. )

You mentioned Sager Chemical axes,which was the top brand from Warren.
And you mentioned Legitimus, which might have been the very highest quality brand from Collins, I'm not sure.

For Kelly, the top-of-the-line brand was their Registered axe, judging from their price list. The Kelly Registered axe cost 1/3 more than the Kelly Perfect, and over 40% more than the Black Raven or Flint Edge.

The top brands for the American Axe & Tool Co. were "Mountaineer" and "A.A.&T. Co.", both costing the same as Kelly's Registered axe.

For Plumb, etc., I don't recall the top brands off the top of my head.

...
...

The Woodslasher is on this list from 1913, at $6.25 per dozen heads, compared to $7.00 for Flint Edge or Black Raven, and $7.50 for Kelly Perfect (for example).

from National Hardware Bulletin, September, 1913

Here's the 1913 wholesale price list for American Axe & Tool Co. (which can be compared with the previously posted 1913 price list from Kelly).

The Hardware Reporter, April 3, 1913, page 60


Note that the A.A.&T.Co. and Mountaineer brands were the highest priced (at $10 per dozen heads, the same as the competing Kelly Registered) and the only ones with a warranty (similar to the Kelly Registered).

 

[Aj35]

Thank you for the information, you mentioned that overall best was a personal preference, what is your favorite brand?

 

[Steve Tall]

I'm a fan of the Sager Chemical axes, mostly based on what I've read in their catalog about how they're made (not based on extensive testing and comparisons with other brands). That Kelly Registered that Operator has sure is nice, too, probably the most attractive axe I've ever "seen", but I know axes like that can cost more now than I paid for my first car (which was only 7 years old in 1980 when I bought it).

 

[jblyttle]

Sorry to cut this thread short, but I have the actual answer.
Sargent (New Haven CT) VBM, "Very Best Made". Haha.

 

[Aj35]

Jblyttle is that actually your recommendation for best axe ever produced or were you simply posting it to make the "very best made" pun?

Edit: I had know idea v.b.m. Actually stood for that until I started researching it .

 

[Aj35]

Also I have heard a lot about Swedish axes, does anyone have good brand recommendations or specific models of Swedish axes that are high quality.

 

[gben]

I like that Steve Tall is a fan of the Chemical Axe because of what went into it's manufacture.

The original and especially current price of an axe is not going to always have something to do with it being a good axe.

An axe head may have originally been priced high not because of it's quality, but because of extra labor costs in making it decorative or "registered".

I have never bought an axe outside the town I live in because to me the best axes are those 50+ year-old ones from local garage and yard sales for a dollar or whatever is in your pocket. They have nothing to apologize for and are the equal of anything made today.

My users are a pair of Kelly Flint edges, a DB and a SB that needed an initial investment of $6.50, and then a few enjoyable hours spent cleaning and repairing them a little. The loser's in the axe game or in any game are those who participate in fashion-trends.

 

[Aj35]

I agree with you that fashion trends are stupid (although cool is one of those kelly raven axes really worth 1300$+) I also agree with your point about local axes (I bought 1 of mine from a garage sale, one from an antique store, and the other from a swap meet), however I do believe that some axes were made with superior steel and with more craftsmenship than others and as I saved some money I figured I would go ahead and get the best one I could afford.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

Best axe for what, though? Context dictates the criteria by which "best" is judged.

 

[Aj35]

FortyTwoBlades I'm looking for a felling axe, any suggestions?

 

[Curt Hal]

I have restored 40+ axes and hatchets now. Without a doubt, my very favorite - I may never sell it - is a Collins Connie. I just has a design that I really like. Is it the best axe? Probably not even close to the Sager or the Legitimus, but it would be my pick. (Oh yes, and the GB that my wife gave me for my birthday!!!)

 

[Aj35]

Curt thank you for the input are you familiar with any of the higher quality Swedish brands if so what brands and how do they compare to the sager chemical and Collins legitimus? Also does anyone know anything about the plumb champion or plumb Au-To-Graf axes?

 

[Chignecto Woodsman]

The chapters "The "Right" Ax", "The Efficient Ax", and "The Double-Bitted Ax" in Dudley Cook's "The Ax Book: The Lore and Science of the Woodcutter" are worth reading. His conclusion is a locally produced, Maine, 3-1/4 lb. axe. This was also an axe he used for many years, and an axe recommended to him as a youngster by an experienced axeman. If I remember correctly anyway, it was the axe he learned on.

The image of "The Efficient Ax" gives exact dimensions. The Gransfors felling axe is fairly close to this design, as it was based on old Maine axes, but has a longer bit and too small of a poll - it does not balance nearly as well as the old Maine axes I have. It is a good axe though.

Maine axes have some loyal followers, but they may not be best for you given your location. I don't know anything about Arizona, but what should work best for you would be one of the axes that men used to carry in your region. What are the dominant trees you will be cutting? What is their size? It is very difficult to cut hard woods and resinous/flexible softwoods with a small and thin axe. It is also difficult to cut large diameter trees with a narrow edge. And a waste of energy to cut small trees with too wide an edge.

Maybe something like the California Yankee pattern:

But perhaps someone knows what axes were used in your region and surrounding states.

The overall dimensions, weight, and grind on the axe will be determined by what you intend to cut. And it takes some time to figure out what axes will chop well in each wood.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

I'm curious as to what you mean by the GB not balancing well? Where does the axis of rotational balance fall on the head? You can find the center of gravity by dropping a plumb line from a couple different grip points (one at either end of the handle recommended to amplify the difference between the two) and seeing where they would intersect. With most American axes a majority of the handle length should lie along that axis, but if it intersects the head in front of the eye then the hang needs to be closed to compensate.

 

[Operator1975]

This question can never truly be answered as there are just too many variables, and way too many opinions on it.

Above there are many good points made, some on price, "top of the line" etc.

Knot Klipper comes to mind, along with Kelly Registered, Legitimus, Sager Chemical, etc. Lincoln axe perhaps? Rumor is that it came from the same die as a Keen Kutter.

I would bet that an old Spiller or Emerson and Stevens would hold their own against a Kelly Registered.

I have a few users, a BMC felling, a Kelly Flint Edge Connie, and a local blacksmith made axe. Any of those will do whatever I want it to do, and at a high level. So how could any other axe best that?

The best axe is what makes it the best to you, not anyone else. Great question to ask, but I am not sure if there is an answer.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

Over the centuries the idea of "best" has been answered by countless users all over the globe, which is why we see so many patterns. Not only were there different environments and applications that dictated the necessary characteristics for peak performance, but often there are multiple ways to achieve the same end result.

 

[rjdankert]

. . . The Gransfors felling axe is fairly close to this design, as it was based on old Maine axes, but has a longer bit and too small of a poll - it does not balance nearly as well as the old Maine axes I have. . .

I'm curious as to what you mean by the GB not balancing well?. . .

I'd be curious to know how most users describe a balanced axe. Can axe balance be described mathematically or is it how it feels to the user?

. . . Where does the axis of rotational balance fall on the head? . . .

Not sure what is meant by that question.

. . .You can find the center of gravity by dropping a plumb line from a couple different grip points . . ..

Just to add, to locate the points on the handle first hang the handle on a string. Then hang the plumb at the point on the handle where the string is attached. Suspend the handle on the other end to get your second point.

An easier way is to just balance the axe on your finger. The center of gravity is where your finger is when the axe is balanced (doesn't slide off of your finger).

Bob

 

[cityofthesouth]

I'd bet that you could potentially find a handful of axes and if you could really test the metallurgy you'd find that they were equal in "quality". If you could find an axe like Operator's Kelly Registered .... holly cow that would be just about as sweet as it could possibly get. I also think there are a couple other factors that could or should be figured into "best". Since materially/compositionally it might be pretty tough to figure out best or to even define best, you'd have to consider popularity, or possibly "lore" or simply how attractive it is to you, or how functionally "best" it is to another axe. I mean Operator's Kelly is amazing for a number of reasons. It is essentially NOS, it has it's original handle, it is a Kelly Registered axe, it is amazing looking, it has a sort of "lore" value. And you have to consider that the Black Ravens are money right now, and yet, not Kelly's top of the line product. Or at least, not their most expensive. So that means the stamp is amazing and people like the way they look, and they have a sense of lore that is unique to them. I think there are lots of bests out there so that means you've got options.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

I'd be curious to know how most users describe a balanced axe. Can axe balance be described mathematically or is it how it feels to the user?


Not sure what is meant by that question.

The axis of rotational balance is defined by a straight line from the grip point through the center of gravity. It's that line that the tool will want to rotate around and it's what gives you your true reference for the hang. Most American, German, and modern Swedish axes have the handle running along the axis of rotational balance (balancing like a "T") but axes in many other nations have the axis of rotational balance passing through the bit rather than the eye (balancing like a "7".) The handle runs at an angle to the axis of rotational balance so a change in hand position along the handle likewise changes the axis, which affects the presentation of the bit for a given hang.

This all sounds more complicated that it actually is because it's a little difficult to clearly describe. Imagine, if you will, a flying saucer-shaped object; a disc with a bulge in the middle. Pinch it anywhere

Just to add, to locate the points on the handle first hang the handle on a string. Then hang the plumb at the point on the handle where the string is attached. Suspend the handle on the other end to get your second point.

An easier way is to just balance the axe on your finger. The center of gravity is where your finger is when the axe is balanced (doesn't slide off of your finger).

Bob

No, not what I mean. The center of gravity on a tool like an axe is usually external to the body of the object. The reason why it's important to have an idea of where the actual center of gravity is is because on axes that have the handle lying off-axis it allows you to see by how much and how the hang is affected by different grip points etc.