Best Ball Peen Hammer?

bobbywett

bobbywett

Joined
Jul 23, 2006
Messages
1,231
Hi Everyone,

I am looking at purchasing a hammer or two for the dedicated purpose of peening my handle pins. I've communicated with one or two really talented smiths directly here on the forums about this very subject. They have given me great information on their hammer preferences and how to make the best use of them. I'd like to get a really nice 2 to 4 oz ball peen. Any recommendations or personal preferences on hammer brands and best practices from you guys? Is there a specific way and or technique that works well?

I am currently using my lightest ball peen, an 8 oz. On full tangs, I glue the blade to the handle, insert the pin material in a slightly over-sized hole in the handle material. (I take the next size drill bit to my grinder and make an inverted cone shape out of the tip and drill into the handle). This over-sizes the hole a bit.....allowing for the pin material to be "Peened" into the handle. My current peening is done on the cone end of my anvil, alternating between both sides of handle as I hammer...just flipping it back and forth so to speak.

How does everyone else do it?


Any Techniques and or Hammer prefernces?

Thanks for any h:)lp,

Bobby,

Hershey, PA
 
Jewelers supply companies, like Rio Grande, sell quality ball peens in many weights.
Don't overlook places like Harbor freight, either. They sell a variety of sizes.

For a small ball face with a little more mass, you can re-grind the ball on an 8oz. hammer down to a smaller diameter size.

Sand and polish the faces often, as they get dinged easily. The smoother the face, the smoother the mark it leaves.
 
Thanks Stacy,

I knew you'd have some words of wisdom...I never thought about the Jewelers perspective, but I know you've got it!
 
I bought my tiny bp hammer off eBay. Polishing the peen is key. Bring it up to a mirror finish. I haven't peened knives, but in 1/16 brass and NiAg rod for straight razors a 2 and a 4 oz both have their place. Polishing the peen is very very important.
 
bladsmth said:
Jewelers supply companies, like Rio Grande, sell quality ball peens in many weights.
Don't overlook places like Harbor freight, either. They sell a variety of sizes.

For a small ball face with a little more mass, you can re-grind the ball on an 8oz. hammer down to a smaller diameter size.

Sand and polish the faces often, as they get dinged easily. The smoother the face, the smoother the mark it leaves.
Click to expand...

I would bypass Harbor Freight ballpeen hammers. The first time I did a peened tang I grabbed a HF hammer. Nothing was happening to the end of the tang and I knew I was hitting it. I then looked at the ball of the hammer. Right away I knew the hammer was to soft.
 
I just use an 8 ounce Vaughan I got from the flea market, but it has a long flat face that I am thinking about cutting down and reshaping to a half round. Yes, polishing the ball face is very important.

Here is mine and you can see where I am hinking of cutting it down to reduce the weight by and ounce or maybe two

2011-10-23084619.jpg



-Xander
 
You should be happy with the Vaughn hammers. I have one I have used hard for almost 20 years.
 
Agreed, Raymond, when working steel use a properly hardened hammer.
But for a 4oz. peen for brass and nickel pins, HF hammers will work fine.
 
medicevans said:
I bought my tiny bp hammer off eBay. Polishing the peen is key. Bring it up to a mirror finish. I haven't peened knives, but in 1/16 brass and NiAg rod for straight razors a 2 and a 4 oz both have their place. Polishing the peen is very very important.
Click to expand...

Hi, I realize this is an old thread, but I ran across it trying to choose what order to buy my hammers in (since I can't afford to buy them all at once). You say polishing is key... Can you please explain how to polish, and does this need to be done for all hammers (that are made of material that would allow it, of course)? Can you also briefly explain why it's important... What do I gain by doing it or lose by not doing it?
 
The face of a hammer will leave its image in the metal it strikes. If the face is rough, it leaves a rough mark....smooth leaves a smooth mark.

Sand the face or ball with fine paper (400 grit) and then polish on the buffer to a bright shine. If you don't have a buffer, sand to 1000 grit.

The face should be touched up from time to time to keep it smooth.
 
I have also heard that the smooth face helps the material being peened "flow" better.
 
You are correct, by reducing the friction between the two metals, you increase the amount of movement. Some old time chasers oiled their hammers as they shaped the object.
 
Sorry for the high jack but I wonder if I understand this right.
On a 2oz hammer, google gives me:
2 Ounces in Grams = 56.7 Grams
An apple is app. 200 grams
Are we talking realy small hammers or am I mistaken?
 
Yes, for fine peening in jewelry work, a 2oz/50g hammer is all we need sometimes. Few knifemakers will need a hammer that light.
For peening pins and such on knives, 4oz/100g to 8oz/200g works well.
For putting a hammer finish on steel, a 12oz/300g to 16oz/400g ball peen works nicely.
For larger work, ball peen hammers come in weights to two pounds ( 1kg).
 
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