Best blow torch

Joined
Jan 5, 2012
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77
Hey I was just wondering if a blow torch is a viable option for heat treating a knife, and if so whats a good cheap one maybe from amazon?
 
Do you have a forge? Do you have any fire bricks? Hard to answer a question like that without knowing where you're starting at.
 
The only viable option torch wise is a oxyacetylene torch, and then even that isn't optimal by any stretch of the imagination. if you are willing to stick with smaller knives, then check this out: http://zoellerforge.com/miniforge.html
I have used one of the torches mentioned as the burner, and, while it isn't the best setup, it will work OK.
 
Can and should are different words.
An Oxy/acetylene torch with a rosebud tip CAN be used to do HT, but a forge or an oven is what SHOULD be used.
A small torch is not a good choice.
 
I have yet to harden a blade but I see Peters HT is referenced frequently here and his prices are very reasonable from what Ive read. That doesn't answer your question.

David Boyle "Step by step Knife Making- you can do it" and Wayne Goddards's "$50.00 Knife shop" books both reference a one brick kiln fueled with Benzomatic JTH7 propane torch setup that I am currently making but it does limit you to under 9" for length, more like 4" to 6". For bigger add more bricks and line the chamber with refractory cement. A brick is about $7.00

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My understanding is that the JTH7 allows more control of temp to minimize overheating..I'm just quoting... and will monitor how hot Im getting with a magnet and will remove the blade when it is no longer magnetic then quench. Its a first for me but everything Ive read sound like there are others using this rig successfully. It will be a week or so at least before I get it going so we'll see what happens. Im still getting the blade ready and I still have to mount the torch. It takes me a while compared to a lot of guys who seem to knock out blades incredibly fast!
 
Having done the research recently with most of the torches available, it is my finding that the MT245C from Magna is about the best torch out there. I've tested about 15 different torch heads for heat output and it is the best by about 10% over some of the swirling torches. Here is a link to the torch at Menards and Amazon if you don't have a Menards nearby. The torch is $14.99 at Menards, $17.99 from the manufacturer in lots of 10, and $26.31 on Amazon.
http://www.menards.com/main/tools-h...g/map-pro-propane-torch/p-1451149-c-10163.htm
http://www.amazon.com/Mag-Torch-MT2...6QRG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1326494291&sr=8-1

Tennessee: Please, for the love of all that's red hot, do no attempt to use that forge while it's sitting on a piece of wood. If I could make a suggestion, get a cinder block and use some metal cloth to attach it to the top of the block. The biggest problem with the 1BF is that it is light and moves around easily.
 
Having done the research recently with most of the torches available, it is my finding that the MT245C from Magna is about the best torch out there. I've tested about 15 different torch heads for heat output and it is the best by about 10% over some of the swirling torches. Here is a link to the torch at Menards and Amazon if you don't have a Menards nearby. The torch is $14.99 at Menards, $17.99 from the manufacturer in lots of 10, and $26.31 on Amazon.
http://www.menards.com/main/tools-h...g/map-pro-propane-torch/p-1451149-c-10163.htm
http://www.amazon.com/Mag-Torch-MT2...6QRG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1326494291&sr=8-1

Tennessee: Please, for the love of all that's red hot, do no attempt to use that forge while it's sitting on a piece of wood. If I could make a suggestion, get a cinder block and use some metal cloth to attach it to the top of the block. The biggest problem with the 1BF is that it is light and moves around easily.

No for sure. I've got it on a granite table and wrapped in brick on all sides, top and bottom included. Never thought about posting the pic on a piece of wood. No wood near it now. Actually out doors to top it off. Good reminder though, thanks
 
I am going to chime in on this because I have been doing research on this and then I have been taught recently about HT with an oxy/acetylene torch. I can't speak for the consistency yet because I only HT one knife this way.

You only really want to use a torch on high carbon steel.

If you go the torch direction you will be differentially HTing the knife and then edge quenching. Make sure you use a magnet so that you know that your steel has reach the critical temp.
 
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Weatherman-
Your figures for a propane torch are way too low!
And using a heat reflecting surface is paramount.
 
I routinely heat treat with a propane torch.
Propane/air torch temperature is over 3000 degrees F.
 
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A standard propane plumbers torch (propane/air) reaches a bit over 2000F.
A propane oxygen torch reaches 2900F.
 
I treat leaf springs made out of 1095. I use a heat-reflecting surface, and quench in canola oil.
 
A propane weed burner puts out a nice big flame. I use one for heat treating small blades with a refractory chamber (and a muffle), haven't tried it without.

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The wood splint in the intake creates a reducing atmosphere and shields the muffle from oxygen so it lasts longer.
 
Thanks for all the replies! but could you tell me if I wanted to do a nine inch blade bowie could I do it with a torch? maybe if I do it differentially tempered?
 
On your other thread about using a torch and one brick forge, I stated that it will work for a 3-4" blade. Bigger will not work well. I'm not saying that no one has ever done a bowie with a JTH7, but it is a poor choice.
 
Hmmm, what do you guys think about using my coal barbecue grill to get the knife as hot as I can. then using the blow torch to get it even hotter and even out the heat?
 
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