Best compound bow for the price?

Ulf Krogstad

Ulf Krogstad

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Nov 19, 2013
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Im really wanting to try bow hunting for white tail this year. I havent shot a bow since I was a teenager and have very little knowledge about what im doing or what makes a descent bow. Need to buy one soon so can get a descent amount of practice in before I attempt this. Hoping there are some bow hunters here that can give me some advice on what to look for, name dropping brands and overall the best bow for the $.Would appreciate it. Thanks
 
A lot of it depends on what your budget is going to be. A few brands to look at are Mathews, Hoyt, Bear Archery, Bowtech, Mission Archery, PSE (the list goes on and on). One thing to do is get your draw length measured at an archery shop and then figure out what draw weight you're comfortable with pulling. Once you know these things you can also look at possibly buying a used bow and saving a few bucks (possibly even having it all set up with sights and other accessories).
 
Whoops. Id say around $350-400 tops. Would prefer cheaper than that though. I dont need anything fancy, just looking for accuracy and able to take down some deer.

I will go down to a shop within the next couple days and check some out and get a draw length and weight.

Definately going to check and see if they got any used ones. Out of the brands you mentioned which do you like best for price and have tried?
What improvements do you get out of bows buy going up in price?
 
Join archerytalk. Lots of info there. I shoot an older Hoyt and an Athens Recluse. The Recluse is my main bow.. I can recommend them both. That said both are used bows that I picked up for much less than retail
 
Thanks. Did join a bow forum today and got alot of advice. Others also said Hoyts are good and cheap. I think im going with a Bear though. Not sure what model. Looked on craigslist and used ones fairly close to me. Otherwise looking in shops near me for used bows or fleabay.

Athens look killer! Thanks for bringing those to my attention. Look out of my price range though at the moment but gonna be on the lookout for them.

I think im gonna go with Bear just cause their price and had lots of recommendations for them. I still am gonna do aome more research for another week or two ( since aint got the money on hand til then anyways) so can take a look at most of whats out there.

Is there a brand or type of arrows you recommend? Im sure their is still so much other stuff too Im missing that I got to get. I gotta go to a shop and look around.

One thing i know for sure is im getting a bow and making this happen. Im pumped.:)
 
one of the things to look out for when buying used bows is that not all bows have easily adjustable draw length, so if you are not sure how you are going to end up, it might get expensive if you have to buy cams or inserts to adjust your length. Also look very closely for limb cracks on any used bow, if you can't handle it, and preferably get it checked out at a pro-shop, don't hand over cash.

I run a PSE stinger, really decent setup package. one of the things I really like is that its got one of the widest draw length adjustments, and a very wide poundage range (40-70) where there are a lot of bows that are much narrower. Getting the strength up is important, and blowing your shoulder apart on a 70lb bow would suck.
 
I'm a USA archery certified instructor and love all bows, compounds are wicked and fun to shoot, but don't rule out recurves. See if there's a range near you that will let you rent bows and try some out. I use a 50lb recurve and love it (Hoyt buffalo) but you can get a starter recurve, nice arrows and some other accessories way under your 300-400 dollar mark. Take a look at the samik red stag or sage they both shoot really well. With the sage you can get higher draw weight limbs as you get more comfortable, I like 35 lb for long shooting sessions to blow off steam and heavy 50 or 55lb limbs for hunting. You can find blemished gold tip arrows on eBay for a lot cheaper than retail, do some reading and make sure you get the right spine arrows for your bow weight. If you can learn to shoot a recurve or long bow with no sights, you will be able to shoot any bow you get your hands on.
 
You should also cruise the local pawn shops, tons of compound bows for dirt cheap.
 
Another suggestion to join Archerytalk.com their classified section is unreal. I also shoot an Athens bow. They are a smaller company with a great product.

Send me a PM when you find out your specs....I will check with a friend that has some 'connections'- save you a few bucks.
 
Look at the sights, release and rest when you're buying used. Or new for that matter. They are expensive close to the price of the bare bow. You'll also want to put a new string on a used bow so having an archery shop nearby would be good.
 
Im gonna go to shop tomarrow and get my measurements. Look around and see if they got any used ones there at a good price. Mono sent a PM. Thanks.

Those PSE's also look great. Think im going to have a hard time choosing.

Whats the differences between recurve and compound? Would have have to assume compound has more power and easier to shoot for a beginner.
 
I also have a PSE stinger, bought a cheap one because I wasn't sure if bowhunting was my thing. turns out I do enjoy it, the bow is quite nice. I have had it now for about 3 years and have shot it tons. I recently upgraded my hunting bow but still use the stinger for bowfishing. the stinger can take a beating it has been bouncing around my boat for a while, dry friend numerous time (stuff happens when its dark and carp are everywhere) and still shoots like the day I bought it. nothing has broken on it besides the peep sight from a dryfire. the bow is very tough and I would highly recommend it as a entry level bow.
 
A compound is easier to learn. Recurve and longbow require a LOT of technique and muscle training to be consistant. Once you get a compound set up for you it's like shooting a rife with iron sights. There is some technique involved, but no way near traditional bows.
 
With a recurve or longbow you hold the entire draw weight while shooting. With a compound towards the end of your draw the cams let off most of the weight leaving you only feeling maybe 15-25 percent of the actual draw weight allowing you to shoot a higher weight bow. Compound is easier to shoot with sights etc, but if you practice shooting a recurve and learn to shoot reflexively you can shoot any bow regardless of what kind of sights it has on it. If you just want it for hunting and dont plan on investing much time in the hobby a compound is your best bet, but if you want to put some time in and plan on shooting outside of hunting, recurves are awesome.
 
legato1 said:
With a recurve or longbow you hold the entire draw weight while shooting. With a compound towards the end of your draw the cams let off most of the weight leaving you only feeling maybe 15-25 percent of the actual draw weight allowing you to shoot a higher weight bow. Compound is easier to shoot with sights etc, but if you practice shooting a recurve and learn to shoot reflexively you can shoot any bow regardless of what kind of sights it has on it. If you just want it for hunting and dont plan on investing much time in the hobby a compound is your best bet, but if you want to put some time in and plan on shooting outside of hunting, recurves are awesome.
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I gotta try to become a descent shot within a month in 1/2 so the compound does sound like itll be the best to learn quick.hvent shot a bow for 15 year so probably pretty rusty.;) Have alot of practice to do. Will try to do daily. If I like it definately will get into recurves cause it just sounds like takes more skill to master and a challenge. Right now though just looking for easiest bow to take down deer. Get to hunt in non below zero temps for deer is going to kick a $$. Though probably going rifle hunting for them too.The more im looking into bows the more stoked im gettin'. I think this is gonna fun!
 
Yeah bow hunting is great. You'll need to get within 30 yards. Wait for the perfect shot. And then draw without being busted. It's a challenge.
 
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Ulf Krogstad said:
Im really wanting to try bow hunting for white tail this year. I havent shot a bow since I was a teenager and have very little knowledge about what im doing or what makes a descent bow. Need to buy one soon so can get a descent amount of practice in before I attempt this. Hoping there are some bow hunters here that can give me some advice on what to look for, name dropping brands and overall the best bow for the $.Would appreciate it. Thanks
Click to expand...

PA hunting regulations are fairly reasonable and for the most part...well thought-out. I only have them to guide me so please bear with me.

My state requires a bow of any design to have at least a 35lb draw. Crossbows must be at least 125lb draw [NOTE: Crossbows and users are a different class of archery, not to be considered "bows" or Bowhunters" in this instance].

Bowhunters must use arrows equipped with broadheads having an outside diameter of at least 7/8-inch with no less than two cutting edges, which shall be in the same plane throughout the length of the cutting surface.

You should check your State/Provincial Hunting guidelines for these types of regulations.

Given all that, I use a PSE bow that's about 10 years old and is set at 68 lb draw [I hunt more than just whitetail...unsuccessfully I might add :( ]. I use Muzzy Trocar-tipped, 100gr. 3 blade broadheads.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Hunt...d-blade/_/N-1100028/Ns-CATEGORY_SEQ_103855680

P1060592_zps7df137f2.jpg


....on Cabela's Carbon Hunter with 4" AAE Vanes

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Cabe...r%3BSearch-All+Products&Ntt=carbon+hunter+aae

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This is my 4th compound bow since Jr. High School and the one I liked most of all of them. It's also the 2nd cheapest of all 4...so don't lest the generalization of the cost of the bow dictates how it will perform. I had the most expensive bow I could afford at the time for about 1.5 years - an Oneida Eagle costing more than $900. I absolutely hated it. Other makers included Fred Bear and Indian. I would like to try a Matthew's myself....but don't have the cash for that venture at this time.

I absolutely suggest you find an archery dedicated outfitter....like a mom-and-pop shop that is dedicated to archery...or a Bass Pro [around here, Bass Pro have a dedicated archery shoppe]. There is such a thing as "this fits you, this doesn't" and they will help you determine that. They will also help tune that bow for you.

Given that you are hunting whitetail with it, I'd suggest anything in the 45-55 lb draw. IF you decide to hunt larger game, you'll want heavier poundage.

The only other suggestion is invest in a good pin sight and arrow rest.

Sights....you don't need a $200 sight to harvest an animal...but I would spend more than $50. I like my Trophy Ridge sight...paid like....$65 for it I think? Was about 4-5 years ago...

Rests.......Whisker Biscuits are nice but strip the vane/fletching off after a few passes. Pick one in your budget but one that keeps the shaft on the rest during light movement, yet drops away after you loose the arrow. I use a PSE Prowler drop away rest, which was around $75

one helpful hint - Get heavy therapy bands. Use them during your off-season to strengthen your chest and drawing arm. 5 mins a day every other day to keep your strong side primed for the draw. Also, practice often and in all kinds of weather. I suggest 2 [or more] dozen arrows. One dozen dedicated ONLY to whitetail hunting and the rest for practice/small game. Keep them ALL the tips at the same weight, this has served me well for decades.
 
I've been shooting Mathews for the last 10 years or so. I've also owned Martin, Browning and Bowtechs...

They are all very good bows, but very different. Each bow will have different draw characteristics. Some are very harsh while others a reasonably smooth. Another big difference is that when you are at full draw, many of the newer speed bows are very unforgiving. I won't buy a bow that is like that. It's not what you want to feel when you are drawn back on an animal, and you have to play the waiting game. After a few minutes it can get fatiguing, and it starts taking away from your concentration..

Buying used bows is the way to go once you really know what to look for. You can save a lot of money...
Don't get caught up in the brand hate, and splitting hairs over a few feet per second in speed. I've been a member on Archery Talk for quite a few years, and it is a great forum, but there are many that think if your bow isn't made by brand x or shoots 340 fps, it is outdated and no good..
There are quite a few guys that feel the need to buy a new bow every year, even when in actuality there is very little change, but you can take advantage of their loss. Just make sure you get a bow that meets your states requirement for hunting deer.

Don't feel like you need to shoot 70 pounds either. You don't... Especially when you are first starting out. You will have muscles getting sore that you didn't know you had, and that will make it hard to focus on the basics while you are going through the learning curve.

Irregardless of the brand, get a bow that fits you correctly that you like, and practice on your form. Consistent form is far more important than what label is on the bow.
Have a local shop work with you on your form. It is very easy to develop bad habits that can be very hard to break...

As far as being ready to hunt in a very short time, there is no set time. Everyone is different. There are so many people that decide to bow hunt that don't put the time and effort into becoming a good shot.
You have to be willing to put in the time, AND have the discipline to not take shots that are questionable. I've passed up so many animals because of that reason, but it is the ethical thing to do...

When I decided to start hunting with a bow, I started shooting about eight months before the hunting season. I would shoot 4-5 days a week for between 2-4 hours each day.

Another thing to remember is that it is very important to be able to judge distance extremely well. Being off on your distance estimate a little can be the difference between missing an animal, or even worse, wounding an animal. Many people use range finders and that is great, but there will be times you don't have the chance to use one, and like anything mechanical, they can fail.
 
Ended up getting a 2007 Bear Instinct. Came with 6 Gold Tip Hunters with Lumenoks installed, and 3 Easton St Epic carbons. Couple different releases, case and two different sights. Was $200 shipped. Heard good enough things about it and since it came with all the extras figured would give it a shot. Probably one of the ugliest bows ive seen but hoping it will perform well.

It also came with hunter tips but will look more into those and what my state laws are. Still dont have my mearsurements. Its set at 29" 68lbs. Think ill be able to handle the 70. Was restung last year. Thanks for all the advice guys. Have to still get a stand and game camera (s).
 
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