Best epoxy for metal/wood fixed blade knife making

K

kawzak

Joined
Jan 9, 2025
Messages
18
Hello. New to this forum. Just getting into fixed blade knife making. Would like to know experienced info on epoxy. I have only used a common brand. Looking for wood to metal epoxy that won’t crystallize or come loose. Thanks for your replies
 
For the last while, I used some cheaper stuff off of amazon, the brand was devcon, but lately I had a few problems with it (especially when I tried curing it in colder weather) the handle scales popped right off
So recently, I just purchased some of the WEST SYSTEMS G FLEX epoxy- it just arrived and I haven't tried it yet, but looking at reviews and other recommendations, I think it is kind of the standard.
 
Linus Knives said:
For the last while, I used some cheaper stuff off of amazon, the brand was devcon, but lately I had a few problems with it (especially when I tried curing it in colder weather) the handle scales popped right off
So recently, I just purchased some of the WEST SYSTEMS G FLEX epoxy- it just arrived and I haven't tried it yet, but looking at reviews and other recommendations, I think it is kind of the standard.
Click to expand...
Just curious regarding the Devcon, which has been around a very long time. When the scales popped off, what did the Devcon remain adhered to, the blade or the scales?
 
RPZIP said:
Just curious regarding the Devcon, which has been around a very long time. When the scales popped off, what did the Devcon remain adhered to, the blade or the scales?
Click to expand...
you know it could have been my fault but ive had a few little problems with it not sticking perfectly around the edges and such. On the one I was referring to I think it stayed on the Handle which was a buffalo horn handle and I had an AEB-L blade. it likely could have been my problem with it since Ive had a lot of success with it also... but just wanted to try something else
 
Thanks for the replies. I haven’t had any failures yet, but my first knife has only been in use about (1) yr. I have been using clear JB weld sold as for knife building. I’ve been told the Devcon will crystilize or loosen in 5-7 yrs. I like Devcon products, I used to work for the mother company of that product. I’m starting to hear about the west system epoxies, but which one in particular?. I been making knives for my family, hoping they will hold on to them a long time. I don’t want any of the handles to come loose. I’m over 70 so I would like to move forwards and not have to redo any. So far I’ve made 10 knives out of 1085, 1090 , Damascus, and stainless ( like working The Damascus best, Stainless least. Just a rookie here.
 
Last edited:
Any
Linus Knives said:
you know it could have been my fault but ive had a few little problems with it not sticking perfectly around the edges and such. On the one I was referring to I think it stayed on the Handle which was a buffalo horn handle and I had an AEB-L blade. it likely could have been my problem with it since Ive had a lot of success with it also... but just wanted to try something else
Click to expand...
Perhaps the blade was not squeaky clean? Also, in cold conditions condensation might be a problem if it is not obviously visible.
 
West systems g-flex. Bring your knives inside during glue up. The epoxy won’t sufficiently harden in cold temps.

Also, make sure the surfaces being glued are nice and rough and clean all things with acetone prior to glue up. Wear rubber gloves to avoid getting oils from your hands on anything during the glue up process. Don’t overclamp or you’ll squeeze out all the epoxy. Good luck!
 
Some makers, myself included consider epoxy regardless of type as a seal between your knife steel and your scale material.

For Strong, working knives you really Should still have a mechanical clamping of sorts..it could be machine screws, Corby bolts, flared tubing, Loveless style bolts, staked or domed pins......Something.

Epoxy alone isn't good enough.
 
-to clarify, not for any reason other than I was ordering material from MMS and that is what they had in stock.
 
Been using West System G-Flex for the past few years and it’s been working great. As others have said, prep is the most important part.
Jeff
 
I've used JB Kwik Weld for over 14 years now. Had to rehandle some knives that my brothers wife put through the dishwasher constantly and the stabilized wood got messed up eventually. The wood actually split apart in some areas and the JB Kwik Weld will still holding on to the tang when I removed the handles. I've done hidden tang blades with a G10 frame and then handle scales and batoned through some red oak firewood with no ill effects, either. Handle material gets 60 grit sanded lengthwise and the tangs get 36 grit ceramic belt finish vertically, everything washed down in Denatured Alcohol and allowed to dry fully before epoxying. I usually do a glue groove/fuller in full tang handles now and started doing some little cut outs on the hidden tangs (belt rolled over the corner of the platen to cut a V into the edge of the tang) so the Jb Kwik Weld acts kinda like it's own pin. I tried to knock a handle off of a Japanese kitchen knife that was installed with Jb kwik Weld (no grooves in the tang or anything) and ended up starting to split the micarta ferrule when hammering on it with a steel bar with the blade in a vise.
 
Again thanks for all the replies. I do use pins, some solid 1/16”, 1/8” or 3/16” and at least one mosaic larger dia.(1/4” o.d.) along with a hollow tube at the rear for lanyard. I do put each pin or tube in my drill and use some 80 grit paper to rough up the sides. I also usually drill a few extra holes( hidden behind the handles) for an extra place the epoxy can all combine with each other. I have not tried to mushroom the tops of any of these to help hold the scales/handles on. I was figuring the epoxy , pins, all adhered together would hold . I guess we’ll see. I did go by a boat shop and buy some West systems G-flex. I still have about a 1/3 of each resin/hardener of the JB professional epoxy left, although ones starting to yellow a bit. I can save it for other projects.
 
Taz said:
I've used JB Kwik Weld for over 14 years now. Had to rehandle some knives that my brothers wife put through the dishwasher constantly and the stabilized wood got messed up eventually. The wood actually split apart in some areas and the JB Kwik Weld will still holding on to the tang when I removed the handles. I've done hidden tang blades with a G10 frame and then handle scales and batoned through some red oak firewood with no ill effects, either. Handle material gets 60 grit sanded lengthwise and the tangs get 36 grit ceramic belt finish vertically, everything washed down in Denatured Alcohol and allowed to dry fully before epoxying. I usually do a glue groove/fuller in full tang handles now and started doing some little cut outs on the hidden tangs (belt rolled over the corner of the platen to cut a V into the edge of the tang) so the Jb Kwik Weld acts kinda like it's own pin. I tried to knock a handle off of a Japanese kitchen knife that was installed with Jb kwik Weld (no grooves in the tang or anything) and ended up starting to split the micarta ferrule when hammering on it with a steel bar with the blade in a vise.
Click to expand...
This is good to know. I tend to use Kwik Weld for test knives or personal knives since it’s easy to come by. But I’ve always just ordered apoxy for when I am gifting a knife. I haven’t had much issues with Kwik weld but I always just assumed it wasn’t as good.

There were a few test knives where it seemed to not cure fully. It was hard but didn’t feel as rock hard as usual but the handles are still ok even 5+ years later now. But because of that I’m cautious of using it on knives for other people. Maybe I had just not prepped the handles well or maybe it had sat on the shelf for a while before I bought it. I might have to do some handle abusing on some of those test knives and see
 
Blasts from the past. Possibly before most folk joined, and there have certainly been some changes in what adhesives are available but others are still around and the prep work stuff is all just as valid today.


Sando

Thread 'Glue Wars'

(Disclaimer: this thread isn't to promote or slam any particular adhesive. Also I'm gonna use the word glue a lot. Epoxy is too specific and adhesive is too much typing.)

OK I'm worried about the glues we use on knives. The more I learn about what's out there the more a "this is the one to use" solution is getting silly.

I'm gearing up to run some tests, but I'd like to present some thoughts for feedback. How should I test, what kind of testing have you done, etc.

=============================
Purpose

I think there are 2 basic purposes for glue in knife making...

T

Thread 'Glue Wars 2'

This is going to seem like slow motion compared to Steves. I've just started and it will take a few days to get them all glued up and then some curing time. I'll keep posting as this plays out.

glueshot1.jpg


Here is some of the candidates. The tube of Weldwood contact already bit the dust as it was basically dried up when I went to apply it so I dug out some Tanners Bond contact cement to replace it. 5 kinds of dual tube expoxy, acra glass, jb weld, 3 kinds of poly glue - one of them is name the Ultimate Glue which I find a bit ballsy...
 
kawzak said:
Hello. New to this forum. Just getting into fixed blade knife making. Would like to know experienced info on epoxy. I have only used a common brand. Looking for wood to metal epoxy that won’t crystallize or come loose. Thanks for your replies
Click to expand...
I've had good luck with System Three Blade Pro, but regular old JB Weld is what I used for a few years. JB Weld leaves a dark grey line though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top