Best for batoning?

einsteinjon

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Hi all,

Wondering if there is a consensus for best Bussekin for batoning? I seem to recall reading that a convex grind works best?

Any other opinions out there? Specific knife? Grind type? Most efficient blade length? For example would a NMSFNO OR NMFBM be better at batoning?

Just did some of my first batoning this weekend with a Forsaken FBM and a BG WTF (and a Trusty Cook mallet) with mixed results. :)

Also, I am well aware a splitting axe may be the best answer but let's keep this to Bussekin please. :p
 
I know this.... the advent of that hybrid grind on the Mega’s from the Swamp baton great because that thick shoulder at the spine just wedges the wood into two.

Idk if I ever had any Busse Kin with a full convex (oh wait, maybe a NMFBM) but at the end of the day, confidence in the blade/steel your beating on and brute force have always gotten the job done. I also think the more blade length the better. Gives you more wiggle room and more striking area.

Hell, I barton stuff that doesn’t even need it because I just enjoy it. Hence why I’m a Busse kin fan because for a Busse/Swamp/Scrap it’s not abuse.
 
Any large Bussekin blade should do well with batonning, as most are pretty thick. However, I prefer hard knife scales for this, Res-c will get damaged from blows with a baton. Some people enjoy using a large knife to baton, like myself, but many others greatly prefer using an axe or maul...

If a Forsaken Mistress or WTF are not working for you then you may want to try an axe to compare, it may work better for you...
 
It’s all INFI with varying grinds, thicknesses and lengths. I think best barring is very much a function if what you are trying to hammer through.
 
And on a side note.... I think batoning is one of the safer and more convenient methods of splitting wood in the field.

Imo splitting with an axe in your yard with a good foundation and room to move safely is not the same as splitting in a congested forested area. I could also be lacking certain skills or experience. But for me.....I’ll baton or use a saw.
 
The FFBM would be a pretty nice big blade but the HOG B8 does serious damage of you're okay with your Resi C getting banged up
 
It’s all INFI with varying grinds, thicknesses and lengths. I think best barring is very much a function if what you are trying to hammer through.

Good point. I should add that it was oak logs, roughly 5 to 6 inch diameter, that I cut down a couple years ago and have been sitting around in the yard drying out.
 
I think of the following criteria regarding batoning:
1. Blade length for striking real estate as well as batoning diameter.
2. Do you want thicker stock to split or thinner stock to sail through? Preference... but also depending on what you’re trying to baton/achieve.
3. Nice flat spine rather than swedge. So it doesn't chew up or break your baton.

The Mistresses seem to be designed pretty perfectly for it.
To me, the Forsaken mistress just missed #3, but it's so nice to use, I don't mind. I don't own an NMFBM, but imagine it'd be pretty ideal. Haven't tried batoning with my ASHBM but I think it'd work as well.
As mentioned the MEGA compound grind is pretty slick for splitting... But I haven't gotten around to trying it much yet. The MegaRatweiler splits smaller stuff great, but could be longer tho, for my liking.
 
NMFBM fatty for me. Full height convex grind on a 0.28" stock. There is no vibration in the handle when chopping or batoning, it feels rock solid. The rounded spine is gentle on the baton.

Screen-Shot-2018-08-17-at-9-25-15-am.jpg
 
I think of the following criteria regarding batoning:
1. Blade length for striking real estate as well as batoning diameter.
2. Do you want thicker stock to split or thinner stock to sail through? Preference... but also depending on what you’re trying to baton/achieve.
3. Nice flat spine rather than swedge. So it doesn't chew up or break your baton.

The Mistresses seem to be designed pretty perfectly for it.
To me, the Forsaken mistress just missed #3, but it's so nice to use, I don't mind. I don't own an NMFBM, but imagine it'd be pretty ideal. Haven't tried batoning with my ASHBM but I think it'd work as well.
As mentioned the MEGA compound grind is pretty slick for splitting... But I haven't gotten around to trying it much yet. The MegaRatweiler splits smaller stuff great, but could be longer tho, for my liking.

Great points^^^

Nuked edges will help with lifespan of your maul, too...

Try a Harbor Fright deadblow hammer...if it gets chewed up and leaks shot, they'll replace it for ya...

Batoning gets a bad rap <pun intended :p> as being useless, but S SlamAdams is precisely correct about the safety factor. In addition, if you're a minimalist type dude it's an appealing skill as well-- requiring only your blade and what ever the environs provides.

Swamp Rat R9 is my go-to guy for kindling duty. Heavy enough to split a lot of small chunks under its own mass. Saber grind helps bust a wedge. Substantial fore-ward guard protects knuckles when guiding thru the chunk and when you have to move back on the handle.

Here's the article from a few years back that prompted me to pick up one off the Exchange, I never looked back after that:

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/swamp-rat-rodent-9-efficient.989373/
 
Good thoughts all thank you! I have a Mega Ratweiler but didn't use it this weekend. Awaiting my sheath from David Brown. :thumbsup: I gotta get a NMFBM someday...
 
This is an interesting thread, I've been pounding knives of all kinds through wood for close to 15 years and I've never really thought about what blade geometry is best for doing that.
Good read.
 
The Regulator has a blade shape made for battoning, that deep hollow grind is easy to start into the wood, but as the thickness increases so fast, it acts like a wedge.
The wood just "explodes" apart after just a few whacks..
 
Nice work those fatty blades work great like a wedge. I thought you were going to make roofing shingles the way you were splitting that wood. :D
 
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