Best machete/blade for sapling removal?

K

Kaizenator

Joined
Jan 20, 2015
Messages
24
I have about 4000m2 of woods I'm trying to keep as natural as possible, with just some paths for easy access but saplings are killing me!

I have a couple of truper machetes but they won't bite on the tiny stuff, I can remove 1/2" or larger saplings no problem, also regular weed is no issue, the in-betweens are the ones beating me, anything smaller than half inch gets peeled off by the weedwhacker but won't fall and it's too damn springy for the machetes and just get glanced when trying to cut them.

The trees are mostly walnut, lightstrum, cat's claw and Canelo.

Some people recommended me a Pakistani kukri but I don't know how well it would work where I live, as the woods are more humid.
 
I have a Cold Steel Kurki Machete that works pretty well on stuff that thin, but the edge has to be very keen. I would suggest getting something long and maybe tipheavy. Maybe a bolo, but I'd just get a Imacasa Pata de Cuche in 20" or greater. The longer blade will give you more velocity at the tip when you swing, more velocity is better for cutting through those small ones before they have a chance to just move out of the way. Something tipheavy like a bolo is nice because it also has more mass to not get hung up once it does cut into something too.
 
I use a Silky NATA just about every day I'm out clearing brush and whatnot. The thing works like a dream. I know they are discontinued now, but you can still get ahold of them on certain auction sites. They come in different lengths and in either single or double bevel. I use single.
 
Last edited:
a number of southeast asian machetes are chisel-ground on the right side, and honed razor-sharp. they cut through saplings, soft brush, lianas, even grass. with the right side chisel grind, you cut soft brush by back handing the blade with your right hand during a horizontal cut. saplings are cut by a 45-degree angle from the right side.
 
The Condor El Salvador machete should work nicely for this. I prefer the wood handled version, but there is a poly handle version as well. Great leather sheath too.
 
I have a 12" Fiddleback Forge machete that I use for thinning out saplings up to 2" in my yard. It's a great blade for this type of brush removal.
 
If you want to go right through thicker limbs, look into something with a heavier blade like a parang, bolo or golok.

Bark River makes beautiful, durable, expensive versions that cut extremely well and resist damage thanks to the razor sharp convex grinds. Another reason to go with BRKT for a tool like this is the warranty. Machete edges tend to get pretty banged up, for the cost of shipping your can send yours back to Bark River for a 'spa treatment' where they restore the knife, and handle, to original condition.

I have a Grasso Bolo III and it is an incredible chopper. The forward heavy balance, thanks to the recurved profile and thick stock, allows it to chop like an axe. It bites deep, going straight through almost anything 2" in diameter or smaller in one chop. The bigger Grasso Bolo II and III are like US made Khukuris.

If you don't want to spend $200 on the Bark River, Tops makes micarta handled machetes (10" 0.170 thick or 16" .230 thick) that come with great sheaths for $75 or so. The edges come thin, so they can get dinged up, but after a few sharpenings mine have become great choppers.
 
If you want to cut thin, springy brush, you need an acute edge and fast blade. The Pakistani khukuri is NOT what you want. The above recommended Imacasa would be a good choice. If you need to work in confined spaces, a shorter model would work. The distal taper in Imacasa blades makes them nice, fast machetes. BTW, Condor's are made by Imacasa with a mark up in price. 42Blades knows machetes and can sharpen them for you. I would contact him. He owns Baryonyx (sp?) Knifeworks. Good luck.
 
Rent an excavator brush cutter?
ex54-mulching-heads-for-excavators-300x225.jpg
 
Himilayan Imports Khurki they are right here ; open up the site. all you will ever need for chopping.
 
The imacasa pata de cuche looks pretty much like my larger truper, so far it hasn't worked so well with the underbrush, a common denominator I see is you guys are recommending me thicker blades, I see what I can get my hands on and report back. My options are limited by the retarded customs laws of my country. They see everything as a weapon and not as a tool
 
Best machete for sapling removal? I honestly don't know if there really is a "best" anymore, what with so many competitors being around.
 
TravisH said:
Are you using a 'brush cutter' head? I've used such dedicated heads to clear underbrush with no issues.
Click to expand...

+1 to this. If you get one of the heavier metal blades it will take out the little stuff like a dream. I use a two bladed head on an Echo, and it goes through saplings and blackberries like a dream. I can literally clear more in an afternoon with the brush head than I could in a week when i was clearing with a machete.

If you want unpowered, then I would also second the sling-blade idea.

If you really want a machete I would say that the next machete I plan to buy is a Baryonyx Machete (http://www.baryonyxknife.com/bama.html). I'm actually surprised that the guy who turned me on to them hasn't commented on this thread yet.
 
Have you considered a Mora 333? I love mine for trail maintenance, it cuts through smaller stuff like a light saber.

Blade Length: 13"
Overall Length: 18 and 1/2"
Blade Thickness: .06"
Steel: High Carbon
Weight: 7 oz.
 
Kaizenator said:
The imacasa pata de cuche looks pretty much like my larger truper, so far it hasn't worked so well with the underbrush, a common denominator I see is you guys are recommending me thicker blades, I see what I can get my hands on and report back. My options are limited by the retarded customs laws of my country. They see everything as a weapon and not as a tool
Click to expand...

If your machete won't take care of saplings, then there's something wrong. A thick chopper is not what you want. You need a thin, fast blade. I don't know about the machete you have, but the Imacasa has a distal taper which makes it very fast. If you use a wrist snap technique and your edge is sharp, the less than 1/2" saplings shouldn't stand a chance. As well, hit them at an angle instead of horizontal to the ground. This keeps the sapling from flexing. You'll likely smack the ground a few times, but a machete can handle this. I love khukuri, but this is not what most khukuri are made for. A khukuri machete can work well for this though. Good luck.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top