Best mill bit for slotting

DanGraves

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Mar 5, 2006
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I just got some new milling bit holders and am about to get some new cutters. I slot guards that are Damascus that has not been hardened but not annealed, I just slot them after the Damascus has been made and cleaned up. I seem to burn a lot of bits and have chipped them also. I like to use the bit to drill and then mill. What are good steps for doing the slots without these problems and what bits to use and the speeds. Thanks.
 
I dont have alot of experince but what I have started doing is to drill the slot first with an ceter bore to locate the holes ( this allows me to get them pretty close together), then an undersize drill and then cut the slot. I just use a 2 flute pretty standard bit. Obviously it takes more time but it works out for me not doing very many.
 
The softer the steel the easier it will be to cut. As a rule of thumb 2 flutes are for aluminum and soft metals and 4 flutes are for steel. As Patrick suggested drill out the slot first, this will make it much easier on the cutter.

Use cutting fluid and slow down your speed if you are burning bits. Make shallow cuts and keep your speed down, but not so low it chatters. Shallow cuts and low and slow will get the slot cut. Blow out the chips as you cut and keep it lubed and it will come out nice.
 
I will second the 4 flute suggestion. I tried doing a few with a 2 flute end mill and it chatters and takes a lot more time. 4 flutes seems to make a nicer cut. Maybe Nathan will chime in...Seeing as that is what he does :D
 
i use those little deremmel tool carbid cutters but then agasin most of my slots are less then 1/8 inch wide
 
I prefer 4 flute carbide, if you want to drill with them make sure they specify center cutting. Most of my guard slots are .1875 and .1562 I like to use cutters that are the same size. When I make my finish cut I move over about .001 or .002 per side this will leave a few tousandths gap all the way around for the solder to flow. Also use flood coolant or forced air to keep the chips out.
 
Thanks guy's. I have been using a 4 flute but I dont think it was a centering one. I will get some. Thanks again.
 
Quality Carbide end mill names that I like to use are RobbJack and SGS, With a TICN coating. Cutting the "hardened and not annealed" guard will require the right feeds and speeds and a ridged set up. But with these cutters I can put a 3/16" key way in a hardened shaft that is RC 62. 3" long.
I have used RobbJack cutters for over 25 yrs from .015 to .750"
Side note, I use short as possible 4 flute cutters. Air blast and No oil for coolant.
The cost of the cutters is high but the company I work for pays the bills.
Let me know if you have any questions?
Sincerely
 
I'll share my experience and what I have found that works for me. Within the last week I've killed two carbide end mills.

After talking with a machinist friend of mine I think he pointed me in the right direction.

One my mill will not run at speeds correct for carbide end mills, the other thing he pointed out was (ridge set up) meaning how tight your mill is (slop in table, clamping and as Dave said rigidity). I believe my set up is tight but I can not run proper speeds.

My recommendation is HSS. The problem is it is tempting to buy the carbide since in the sale flyers they cost almost the same as HSS.

Not knowing what type of mill you are using and type of clamp it might be hard to determine.

Hopefully Nathan will chime in.

Dave from Diller
 
Just to give you an idea on the speed and feed I keep a program in a FADAL CNC mill at work so I can kick some out on lunchbreak. With a .1875 4 flute carbide endmill on stainless I run 1500 rpm's with a feed of 10-15 ipm (inches per minute). I take .075 per cut and run flood coolant which forces chips out of the way violently and keeps it cold. For nickel silver I can just about double the feed and speed. The cutter I have set-up now has been through 25 or so guards plus some other odd jobs. Another approach would be to take lighter cuts, say .015 per cut and you could probably triple the feed rate because there is a much lighter load on the cutter. Feed is usualy the snap factor when it comes to small diameter endmills. I know most folks don't have access to CNC equipment but you can learn to control your feed rate on a conventional mill, you just need a clock. Mark off 5" on your mill table if you have a DRO even better, try to move over the distance in 30 sec. You will be feeding 10 inches per min. Learning some control and understanding where the slack is in your mill will save a lot of endmills. Hope this helps a little.
Jason
 
I almost didn't click this thread because I'm not aware of a best endmill for slotting. There isn't even a best technique, because a rigid machine with high pressure coolant can use different strategies than a lighter machine tool and a squirt bottle. That said, to answer the question, I feel a three flute cutter is the best endmill for slotting, and a cutter with variable pitch and variable helix will help prevent the chatter and gouging that is a common problem in the process. However, most any cutter will work fine for just slotting a guard, it is the technique that matters most.

For me, a lot of the cutters I use utilize an odd number of flutes, which reduces problems on the surface 90 deg from the cut, however most general purpose endmills are two or four flute, so I'll stick to them.

If you insist upon plunging, you will get better results with a two flute. If you're having problems re cutting chips due to a very deep slot, you will want a two flute. Also, a two flute will gouge less in a less than rigid setup. That said, I do like the improved productivity of a four flute, even when slotting.

A relatively foolproof technique for cutting a 1/4" slot in high carbon steel with a less-than-industrial-machine-tool:

Drill 3/16" holes on both ends of the cut. Unless you have a very rigid setup, plunging is really hard on endmills because the wobble is basically uncontrolled motion, which wipes out your cutting edges, particularly with carbide.

Don't use more tool stick out than necessary. Deflection in the cut is going to be a problem. 3/4" stick out max.

Using a 3/16" four flute carbide cutter turning 1800 RPM plunge 1/16" into your predrilled hole and feed to the other hole at a rate of about 6 inch per minute (IPM). So a 1 1/2" slot will be crossed in 15 seconds. Blow the chips out. Plunge another 1/16" and feed back to the other side. Repeat until you're at full slot depth, it should only take a couple minutes. If you're doing this with carbide (which is ideal for slotting because it is stiff) you can turn it up this high and feed this fast, but you're going to want to wear good eye protection to keep hot chips out of your eyes. Use regular (or constant) air blasts to keep the chips out of the slot and the cutter will last a long time. Re cutting chips is what damages carbide in this application, not heat or lack of lubricant.

The next step is to feed over in one direction to cut one side of the slot, leaving a little stock behind for finishing. Feed over in the air and plunge down at 6 IPM to a depth of about 1/4". Climb milling is best in a slot because it reduces chip re cutting. Climb milling on a manual machine without ballscrews can cause uncontrolled feeding as the backlash is taken up by the cutting forces, but usually not with a light cut and a cutter this small. Just be on the look out for it. Do this on both sides until you're at full depth and full width.

If you want to take a finish pass with a 1/4", use a 2 flute or the wobble at the end of the cut (where it starts to plow) will cause a gouge on the left hand side of the cut.

Speeds and feeds and depth of cut in a CNC using a quality 3/16 cutter in high carbon steel would all be about double, so the job would take about 1/4th the time. The one relative constant would be chip load per tooth. You need to be between .0003 and .0015 for a cutter this size in this material. If you fall below that range the cutter won't cut properly, it will rub, which will dull the cutter and work harden the work piece. If you go above that range you'll overload the cutting edge (and possibly run out of relief), even on a really shallow cut.

So, your feed rate window is tied to your RPM. Your RPM (actually your SFM) is tied to your cutter type (size, material, coating) and the material being cut. Your depth of cut is tied to your cutter diameter and material cut,the cutting angle (slotting is 180 deg), machine and setup rigidity. And to some extent the volumetric displacement of your balls...

Cutters are almost always under nominal, so unless you have a lot of runout, a 1/4" cutter used on your finish pass will likely leave a .248" slot. Something to be aware of.
 
Great advice all around. Any alterations to the tips when milling a commercially pure titanium material?
 
Great advice all around. Any alterations to the tips when milling a commercially pure titanium material?

SFM for CP titanium and high carbon steel are about the same, as are the cutting forces. The primary difference is the CP ti won't tolerate a low chip load because it is flexible and strong, so I suggest a somewhat lower depth of cut and a somewhat higher feed, perhaps .040" and 8 IPM.
 
Thanks Nathan. The best explanation I have seen. My machine is tight but totally manual. It is hard to work with speed rates of the cut (I can change rotation speed but not feed rate). I think my biggest problem is my mill. It is tight just manual. Even the depth. Thanks again for taking the time to explain this. I appreciate it.
 
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