Best polishing Compound

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Who makes the best? Bar none
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K@G sells some good compound
Ther pink shines the blade and takes the haze out and is good on handles
they sell alot of different kind try some on
a j weight cloth belt,it will stay in your hollow and not blur your lines try there dark green on one then go to the white or pink,
 
What is a good compound for getting scratches cleaned up? I guess what I mean is which one is the most aggressive
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What type wheel should I apply it too. Sisal?
 
I use a compound made by a company called Osborne. It is a dark green grease-type rouge. It is designed for stainless and is the best I have ever used for removing scratches. It works just as well on carbon steels. Removing scratches in this manner assumes that you have carefully sanded out all deep scratches to at least 400 grit. 600 or smaller is preferable if you want to cut down on your buffing time. I have tried a number of other products from the major knife supply houses and never found one that works as good.

Fox
 
bobH, I get the compound from my local hardware store. However, I have an unopened tube in my hand and here is the pertinent information from that tube. It 2" x 5", round, and is made by Osborn Manufacturing out of Cleveland, OH, 44144-3997. The product code on the tube is 47010. It also says it is a unit of Jason Incorporated. The actual name of the product is Stainless Steel Compound. The instructions call it a fast cutting compound. I use a sewn muslin wheel at 3,450 rpm. I paid $8.09 for the last tube, but it lasts for a long time.

Fox
 
I have bought the black or grey compound, I believe it has been referred to as emery cake or something along those lines. I tried it once and it now sits on the shelf. It seems to be very agressive and will just ruin a grind line. I suppose it may work OK for rust or something but I have no use for it for knifemaking. Someone please educate me on the uses for it, I may be missing something....

C Wilkins
 
I rather prefer to minimize the time spent on the buffing wheel (the most dangerous piece of equipment in my shop). Overheating the blade with the buffer can be pretty easy. I do have some of the aggressive gray compound, but have used it only once. There's no better feeling than to go to the buffing wheel, spend three minutes and find that the grinding process was flawless.

I use the white compound for initial buffing on a loose (but 1" thick) muslin and the green chrome on a loose and thin muslin for final buffing. The green chrome leaves a super shine.

The white compound is moderately fine, moderately aggressive. It almost leaves a fine enough polish, but still will remove the 600 grit scratches.

I use clean belts to 400 grit, then a well worn 400 grit with green chrome, and sometimes a 15 micron belt to finish. If done well, the buffer is used minimally. As noted above in other replies, it is the early steps that make all the difference. And I really like the black marker trick for seeing those deeper scratches.

Dan
Hannon Bearpaw Knives http://www.freeweb.pdq.net/dhannon/hannon.htm
 
I use a sisal wheel and a coarse polish after 400 grit then I use a 500-600 then I use Brownells 555 on a wornout belt, then I use the 555 on a hard felt wheel,then on a 90ply loose muslin wheel

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-Greg Johnson
ICQ#4236341

 
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