Hey guys and gals just looking for a bit of advice. I have been trying to learn how to hand sharpen my knives for the last couple years. I currently have a king 1000/3000 combination stone. I have got some decent results with this stone but nothing fantastic. I'm looking to either get a couple new stones or possibly a sharpening system. If I stick to stones I was wondering if there would be a DVD or something that could help me improve. Thanks in advance and sorry for the long post.
Best sharpening equipment
- Thread starter noob93
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I got much better at freehand sharpening *after* I got a Lansky guided rod system. Taking my lack of skill out of the equation for a while helped me learn how to more reliably raise burrs and to hone them off. And I was able to explore differences in angles and apex geometries.
Your post was pretty short, btw.
Your post was pretty short, btw.
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You can find a ton of great info and generous people right here: https://www.bladeforums.com/forums/maintenance-tinkering-embellishment.794/
You can get a ton of different answers and most of them won't be wrong or right, just different. For example, for a guided system, I like the KME, others swear by the Edge Pro and so on. I like Arkansas stones for steels that are receptive to them but others view them as ancient history. I don't use water stones but others won't use anything but.
The best all around answer is usually diamond. Diamond stones can handle just about any steel. There are trade-offs but in general something like a 300 and 600 grit diamond can go a long way. Generally speaking, you have to be sharp off whatever the lowest grit stone you have before moving up.
No matter what you choose, it is essential to get a decent sized permanent marker. I like red because I can see it easier. Color the secondary bevel and this will guide you through the proper angle. Ink coming off on the shoulder of the bevel? You're too low. Just coming off the very edge of the bevel? Too high.
A decent lighted 20x loupe is pretty nice too.
You can get a ton of different answers and most of them won't be wrong or right, just different. For example, for a guided system, I like the KME, others swear by the Edge Pro and so on. I like Arkansas stones for steels that are receptive to them but others view them as ancient history. I don't use water stones but others won't use anything but.
The best all around answer is usually diamond. Diamond stones can handle just about any steel. There are trade-offs but in general something like a 300 and 600 grit diamond can go a long way. Generally speaking, you have to be sharp off whatever the lowest grit stone you have before moving up.
No matter what you choose, it is essential to get a decent sized permanent marker. I like red because I can see it easier. Color the secondary bevel and this will guide you through the proper angle. Ink coming off on the shoulder of the bevel? You're too low. Just coming off the very edge of the bevel? Too high.
A decent lighted 20x loupe is pretty nice too.
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Just my opinion, but I'd say tapered diamond rods.
Firstly, you can sharpen any steel, because synthetic diamond is the hardest abrasive currently available.
Secondly, you can sharpen any blade shape, because tapered rods are actually meant for serrations and recurves.
Thirdly, tapered rods are easy to carry around.
This is all theoretical as I don't have good results with my tapered diamond rods (Schrade SCHDDS and Lansky TR-600). I suspect I'm a bit too hammer-fisted, just not enough finesse which probably explains why I suck so badly at playing guitar. Also, I do find it a bit more difficult to maintain a correct angle when freehand sharpening with a rod held in one hand versus a benchstone laid flat on a countertop.
I seem to get my best edges from sintered ceramic benchstones by Spyderco which work well for the mid-performing steels I tend to prefer. Haven't really been too happy with the results from my Japanese waterstone either, it's not a King but it's also a 1000/3000 combo stone. Kanetsune Seki or something like that. King is more well-known so I'd assume it's better.
Firstly, you can sharpen any steel, because synthetic diamond is the hardest abrasive currently available.
Secondly, you can sharpen any blade shape, because tapered rods are actually meant for serrations and recurves.
Thirdly, tapered rods are easy to carry around.
This is all theoretical as I don't have good results with my tapered diamond rods (Schrade SCHDDS and Lansky TR-600). I suspect I'm a bit too hammer-fisted, just not enough finesse which probably explains why I suck so badly at playing guitar. Also, I do find it a bit more difficult to maintain a correct angle when freehand sharpening with a rod held in one hand versus a benchstone laid flat on a countertop.
I seem to get my best edges from sintered ceramic benchstones by Spyderco which work well for the mid-performing steels I tend to prefer. Haven't really been too happy with the results from my Japanese waterstone either, it's not a King but it's also a 1000/3000 combo stone. Kanetsune Seki or something like that. King is more well-known so I'd assume it's better.
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Make it diamond too. I usually stop at about 600 grit for most knives.
I’ve had better luck freehand than I’ve had with the sharpmaker. It comes with practice.
If you want to stick to stones, you’ll want some more coarse stones for reprofiling and generally starting the process of bringing a dull knife back to life. For maintenance of a good edge, your existing set up + a strop is good.
My preferred system is:
1. Edge Pro Apex (or guided system of your choice) for reprofiling and similarly intensive work.
2. Spyderco Sharpmaker for touch up.
3. Bark River strop kit with black and green compounds for edge maintenance.
Much of this has to do with the fact that I enjoy supersteels with more aggressive edges than they usually have from the factory. One of the fun things about M390 and similar steels is how well they work with acute angles. Grinding M390 from 20dps to 15dps with a bad set up is a chore.
My preferred system is:
1. Edge Pro Apex (or guided system of your choice) for reprofiling and similarly intensive work.
2. Spyderco Sharpmaker for touch up.
3. Bark River strop kit with black and green compounds for edge maintenance.
Much of this has to do with the fact that I enjoy supersteels with more aggressive edges than they usually have from the factory. One of the fun things about M390 and similar steels is how well they work with acute angles. Grinding M390 from 20dps to 15dps with a bad set up is a chore.
AntDog
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Technique is by far more important than equipment when it comes to sharpening. You can get a crappy edge on the best sharpening system if you don't know what you're doing, and you can get a blade as sharp as a straight razor on the bottom of a coffee cup if you do.
Get a good understanding of what you're doing during each part of the process. If you understand what's supposed to happen to the steel at each part of the process, you can get a blade sharp on most reasonable sharpening equipment.
That said, I have a few nice benchstones, a sharpmaker, a smooth steel, several strops, and a knockoff edge pro I haven't used much.
Get a good understanding of what you're doing during each part of the process. If you understand what's supposed to happen to the steel at each part of the process, you can get a blade sharp on most reasonable sharpening equipment.
That said, I have a few nice benchstones, a sharpmaker, a smooth steel, several strops, and a knockoff edge pro I haven't used much.
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I’d like to second this, particularly regarding asking in the Maintenance section. Those guys are great and very generous with advice. I posted a thread about diamond paste/spray and they were very, very helpful. It’s a brilliant corner of BF.
Smaug
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Free hand sharpening is for those who want to make a hobby out of sharpening.
I've tried several systems over the years. Here are my thoughts on them:
- freehand is OK, with an angle guide
- Spyderco Sharpmaker: this is the one I keep coming back to. Add the coarse diamond rods and you're good to go.
- Lansky: works great on saber and scandi grinds. Not well on full flat grinds.
- Worksharp Ken Onion: inconsistent blade angles from knife to knife, since it uses the side of the blade as a reference, rather than the center line. Very good for correcting a bad factory grind.
sharp_edge
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Agree that OP needs to get a lower grit stone.
I know many people like Spyderco Sharpmaker and I also have one. However, the more correct name of it should be "Sharpmaintainer" because it is a pain in the behind to sharpen/reprofile a very dull knife with it. Also, if you want to create crispy and evenly ground edges, SM won't be much helpful.
I know many people like Spyderco Sharpmaker and I also have one. However, the more correct name of it should be "Sharpmaintainer" because it is a pain in the behind to sharpen/reprofile a very dull knife with it. Also, if you want to create crispy and evenly ground edges, SM won't be much helpful.
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I recently upgraded to a Wicked Edge Go, plus one set of 1200/1600 grit ceramic stones. I've always been shocked at the price, and the GO system seems like a decent price point for getting into the world of precision, guided systems. That said, it can be had for about the same money I would have dropped otherwise on another knife for the collection. Pay once, cry once...
On the plus side, I am very quickly (say 5 or 6 knives now) able to get edges that are blowing my mind, compared to what I was previously able to do with my Sharpmaker. They are just in another league, for me, and it's been very easy to learn. The knowledge center at their website has addressed any question I had, lots of videos and tutorials, lots of knife-specific and issue-specific information all cataloged for reference.
On the plus side, I am very quickly (say 5 or 6 knives now) able to get edges that are blowing my mind, compared to what I was previously able to do with my Sharpmaker. They are just in another league, for me, and it's been very easy to learn. The knowledge center at their website has addressed any question I had, lots of videos and tutorials, lots of knife-specific and issue-specific information all cataloged for reference.
I'd be curious to hear more on this, as it is absolutely the reverse of my experience.
I've found the Lansky system great for full flat and hollow grinds but not good for saber flat (aka scandi) and or saber convex blades. These grinds really do best when you sharpen the flat or convex to the edge. The guided rod can put a secondary bevel on knives of this kind just fine, but they can't do the primary grind removal.
Note, if you bend the rod of a Lansky down just a bit, you can use them to put convex apexes on knives.
sharp_edge
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Lansky is a useful and easy-to-learn sharpening system, although the degree points on it are pretty much useless because the actual DPS can be vastly different depending on the thickness of the blade, the distance between the clamp and the blade edge, and the actual angle between the two clamps. With FFG blades, the two clamps are usually not parallel unless you wedge sth in.
abbazaba
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Everyone should own a Sharpmaker IMO. I'm functional when it comes to freehand touchups, but prefer using the SM when possible. I've reprofiled lots of knives on it using the diamond rods, including notorious steels S110v and M4. I now have a Wicked Edge for ease of resetting bevels, but the SM sees the most use by far.
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cnm123
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I learned on a Norton tri stone, never got to the mirror edge but functionally sharp, then for years have used Lansky diamond hones with good results (I feel the lansky system has quite a learning curve).
I think it’s better to know how to use bench stones is like knowing how to drive a stick shift car. Know the basics before moving up.
Edit..the Wicked Edge looks like an awesome set up...but the price
I think it’s better to know how to use bench stones is like knowing how to drive a stick shift car. Know the basics before moving up.
Edit..the Wicked Edge looks like an awesome set up...but the price
AntDog
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No. Freehand sharpening was just called "sharpening" when I was a kid. Benchstones, strops, and steels did just fine for a great many years - before any of this stuff could really be considered a "hobby".
I firmly believe people should know the fundamentals first. It's still one of the simplest ways to get an edge back on a knife and the only tool required is something abrasive.
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