Edge thickness and geometry have at least as much influence on ease of sharpening as steel type. The hardest knife to sharpen I've ever had was AUS-8. It took nearly 2 hours on a water cooled wheel to get a burr to form.
Dont forget the part abrasives play in sharpening. If you use arkansas stones on S30V, it will take a long time to sharpen even if the edge is 0.001" thick. Actually, thats not true, but you get the point. Diamond hones and silicon carbide paper and hones will cut steel with abandon. Arkansas stones are only marginally harder than some of the latest steels, and take a long time.
To sharpen any steel in just a few passes, use a microbevel instead of honing the entire edge bevel. Whatever edge angle you want, just grind the bevel lower by 5-7 degrees, then hone the final edge at the desired angle. The actual cutting edge that has to be honed will be very small, sometimes not even visible. When the microbevel gets too big, just thin it down again. The thinning is typically called a relief bevel, or something along those lines. I ground a paring knife at 10-11 degrees for relief, and now it only takes 10 passes per side to sharpen it at 17-20 degrees.
Of the stainless steels, I like 440C, VG10, and 154CM. I havent used S30V or some of the others. I like AUS 8 and AUS 6 as well, and dont have any complaints about the edge holding of AUS 6. The only carbon steel I have any experience with is 1095. It holds a beautiful edge as long as wet cutting is not involved.