Best video/tutorial for convex

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Oct 13, 2013
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Guys, I am bound and determined, especially since I've got a couple convex ground FBs to finally be more than barely marginally successful at convex sharpening.

I've tried this many times over the past couple of years and I just can't seem to get it. give me a scandi or a flat ground and its gonna be scary sharp when I am finished.

Convex, I am a lot better than I was two years ago. I can usually manage not to dull it even more but it seems I can get them only marginally sharp. They will cut a hair but only after its half pulled out before it cuts, lol.

I have watched a number of videos, including Derrick's @ KSF. I've tried the sandpaper/mousepad and strops with Bark River Black/Green/White compounds.

Really frustrated but not giving up ... but just aint getting it.

Any help is appreciated. Any pointers or tips to what I might be doing consistently wrong, appreciated.
 
Check out Iz Turley's convex sharpening videos. Here's a good place to start.


Another is his sharpening a convex secondary.


One "trick" I use is a sharpie and jeweler's loupe. Helps me know I'm hitting the edge well.
 
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One reason could be that Fiddlebacks are not full convex like Bark River or Fallknivens. There is a small bevel which has to be taken into account when sharpening. If the blade is not too dull a few strokes on a strop with compound following the angle of the bevel will bring it to shaving sharp.

If the blade is very dull the same can be done on on a 600 grit followed by however high you want to go on either a ceramic stone, diamond hone or other abrasive.

Main thing is to keep into account the bevel.

With the full convex technique you have mentioned the edge probably won’t be sharpened until the shoulders of the bevel are ground off into a full convex.
 
Check out Iz Turley's convex sharpening videos. Here's a good place to start.


Another is his sharpening a convex secondary.


One "trick" I use is a sharpie and jeweler's loupe. Helps me know I'm hitting the edge well.

Thank you, I haven't see his before. I will give it a watch tonight.
 
One reason could be that Fiddlebacks are not full convex like Bark River or Fallknivens. There is a small bevel which has to be taken into account when sharpening. If the blade is not too dull a few strokes on a strop with compound following the angle of the bevel will bring it to shaving sharp.

If the blade is very dull the same can be done on on a 600 grit followed by however high you want to go on either a ceramic stone, diamond hone or other abrasive.

Main thing is to keep into account the bevel.

With the full convex technique you have mentioned the edge probably won’t be sharpened until the shoulders of the bevel are ground off into a full convex.

Thank you for the info. I apologize for being not too smart about all this but how do I take the bevel into consideration? Do I hold at a certain degree angle?
 
Guys, I am bound and determined, especially since I've got a couple convex ground FBs to finally be more than barely marginally successful at convex sharpening.

I've tried this many times over the past couple of years and I just can't seem to get it. give me a scandi or a flat ground and its gonna be scary sharp when I am finished.

Convex, I am a lot better than I was two years ago. I can usually manage not to dull it even more but it seems I can get them only marginally sharp. They will cut a hair but only after its half pulled out before it cuts, lol.

I have watched a number of videos, including Derrick's @ KSF. I've tried the sandpaper/mousepad and strops with Bark River Black/Green/White compounds.

Really frustrated but not giving up ... but just aint getting it.

Any help is appreciated. Any pointers or tips to what I might be doing consistently wrong, appreciated.

Out of curiousity, how do you sharpen your flat grinds?
 
Out of curiousity, how do you sharpen your flat grinds?

I usually use my sharpsmaker and finish it off on strops. Ocassionally a benchstone.

Thanks!

I am starting to think I am using too much pressure. A lot of videos say use weight of knife. I put a good bit of pressure trying to do it faster.
 
This is just my opinion and I'm sure others can explain it better, but the principle of sharpening a convex secondary is pretty much the same as sharpening a flat grind on a stone. Slightly lower angle and instead of "cutting into" the stone you're dragging it backwards.

Pressure is critical if using a mousepad for backing. Too much and you round the edge over. The weight of the knife is all it takes. Try using a piece of leather for backing instead of the mousepad. It don't have as much give, so its a little more forgiving of too much pressure, but you will still keep the convex edge.

Hopefully that makes sense
 
This video and will watch others really cleared up things for me. I just stropped correctly for the first time......finally razor sharp.

Before this, I was using speed over technique and I quickly got bupkis, not the fine edge I was hoping for.......
 
This video and will watch others really cleared up things for me. I just stropped correctly for the first time......finally razor sharp.

Before this, I was using speed over technique and I quickly got bupkis, not the fine edge I was hoping for.......
which video Noah?
 
This is just my opinion and I'm sure others can explain it better, but the principle of sharpening a convex secondary is pretty much the same as sharpening a flat grind on a stone. Slightly lower angle and instead of "cutting into" the stone you're dragging it backwards.

Pressure is critical if using a mousepad for backing. Too much and you round the edge over. The weight of the knife is all it takes. Try using a piece of leather for backing instead of the mousepad. It don't have as much give, so its a little more forgiving of too much pressure, but you will still keep the convex edge.

Hopefully that makes sense


I completely agree. Andy told me to abandon the whole “mousepad” thing years ago and use leather backed sandpaper (or paper over a strop) and I’ve never regretted it.
 
Thank you all. I will abandon the mouse pad for leather and spend some time watching these videos. Really appreciate all the help!

Thanks again.
 
One more question. Is it just me or is it easier, quicker and sharper on say like 3/32 than like 5/32?

Seems the thinner the stock the easier and sharper it is to get a knife.
 
which video Noah?

Sorry my post was unclear at best. Thurin's video, specifically the part about stropping is just sharpening on leather and watching the technique. Realized I was rushing the stropping process, while my sharpening has always been Sharpmaker based along with other contraptions (rushing through as well). Watched Andy strop knives at the Survival weekend and was applying only the speed portion of his technique. The speed I was using was with lousy technique, so I slowed it down and viola razor sharp folder (Inkosi)....sorry it was what I had during my epiphany.

So fast forward to now, I have all the tools in the video, so sharpening up my Duke (Russel got all but tip sharpened @ Trackrock) tomorrow evening, slow and steady, then stropping. Won't be the factory edge I couldn't maintain with my crappy stropping, but once I get it sharp, I can definitely maintain it.
 
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