Best way to make an ALL kydex sheath....

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Oct 25, 2002
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709
...with no metal at all.

A customer of mine wants a few sheaths made up, but does not want any metal in the sheaths at all...no steel eylets or Chicago screws, etc.

Any suggestions on how these should be made. SOP for me is to use steel eyelets and screws.
 
Form the sheath as a fold-over style (if possible...preferred)

Cut out to shape and finish the edges.

Drill 1/8" diameter holes around the edge. (spaced closely, but not too close)

Lash/Sew - just like you would a leather sheath.


I've done this before....works great. Just need to make sure you have enough holes...and a super-tight stitching job. Also, works best if you have some kind of "lock" with the geometry of the knife (guard, etc.)

Best of luck! :thumbup:
 
I would try to mold it, then put a couple spot on it and put it back in the press cold and let it set. I''d think that would work. You could grind off any that leaks out the side.
-John
 
cant you solvent weld kydex? i swear i heard that some where. coat with methyl ethel keytone....... ( jon mumbles to him self and gets samples ready to try at work tomorrow....)
 
cant you solvent weld kydex? i swear i heard that some where. coat with methyl ethel keytone....... ( jon mumbles to him self and gets samples ready to try at work tomorrow....)

I'll be looking forward to hearing about the results!
 
Here is Kleerdex's (manufacturer Kydex) own tech brief pdf on how to cement Kydex to Kydex. http://www.kydex.com/briefs/103A.pdf

They have other briefs about cementing Kydex to wood and metal.

Has anyone tried regular PVC cement? Dissolve some Kydex shaving in with the PVC and it may be good to go. Kydex is an "alloy" of PVC and acrylic. BTW, tetrahydrofuran is NASTY stuff. Don't get it on you and no prolonged breathing of vapors.
 
How about hot "riveting" using some kind of hard plastic?
 
I've made quite a few fold overs for smaller knives. As Daniel stated, I drill holes and stich it up. Paracord works well. I will often take out the core so the stiching is flatter. With some of the smaller ones, you don't need to stich them up. I also have made some simple belt loops so that I can hang my neck knife in my pocket instead of around my neck.

I had some success in gluing Kydex using the Hot Blue PVC cement. I rough up the surfaces, then prime it with the purple stuff. Apply the cement (not too much, you don't want it to get squeezed into unwanted areas), then clamp the hell out of it. It need to dry for atleast 10-12 hours.

Another thing I do to Kydex is after sanding and finishing the edges (320 grit), I wipe it down with Armor All. It evens out the color and makes the edges look nice.

send me an email and i'lll send you a couple of pics of some of the sheaths I've made.

Ric
 
cant you solvent weld kydex? i swear i heard that some where. coat with methyl ethel keytone....... ( jon mumbles to him self and gets samples ready to try at work tomorrow....)

wellllllllllllllllll that didnt work i tried every solivent sherwin williams makes and no dice :(
 
Acetone will melt kydex, as will pvc glue. I take a paper towel with a small bit of acetone on it and wipe down the insides of mine before putting them together, takes any shavings right off and smooths the surface.

I think you'd have to play with it, but I distantly recall someone telling me they pvc glued their sheaths before rivets. Other than that, maybe you could try a polyurethane glue?
 
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