Best ways to clean up a blade after heat treat

cmd

Joined
Feb 7, 2004
Messages
1,207
Let's hear some ways people clean up a blade after heat treatment. I find this to be the most tedious and occasionally frustrating part of making a knife.

High carbon or stainless, this seems to always be the least fun stage.

What are some good ways to clean up a knife after heat treating?

Chris
 
I surface grind it on my 6/18 and go from there. This is how I remove the black scale from the steel. And its also nicest and flat. I have never had a warped blade yet. This is probably one of the reasons why. If its worth making its worth doing right. -------------:thumbup:
 
This is what I do too, finish grinding that is, and it works well in the end but is tedious.

I'd still like to hear how everyone does it...
 
I use die finishing (EDM) stones to take out the grinding marks. i get mine to 240 before heat treat and use foil so I have very little to do.
 
Get yourself some PBC No-Scale Heat Treating Compound! An ounce of prevention, as they say :)

Mike
 
Get yourself some PBC No-Scale Heat Treating Compound! An ounce of prevention, as they say :)

Mike

I have some but even with it I am having to do cleanup just as much as with foil. Perhaps I'm not using it correctly? Shake on and cover the metal at 500 degrees (PBC Special on Stainless) then proceed with heat treating.
 
There's very little finish clean up if you use a salt pot!! :thumbup:

(The finish is the same, it's just dark--couple swipes with Scotchbrite, steel wool or whatever, and it's gone.)
 
There's very little finish clean up if you use a salt pot!! :thumbup:

(The finish is the same, it's just dark--couple swipes with Scotchbrite, steel wool or whatever, and it's gone.)

A salt pot is definitely on my wish list. Making knives to buy equipment to make knives in order to buy more equipment to make more knives...

A salt pot and a cryo tank and a media blaster and a mill would make things so much more interesting.

Chris
 
Chris, you mentioned you take the steel to 500 degrees before applying your PBC. I'm thinking that you need to get it hotter. I use 600 religiously, and just don't have any problems with it. Be sure you apply enough of the PBC to completely cover any visible steel (I use a peppershaker also, it's clear acrylic so I can see the level at all times). I shake over paper so that later I can crease the paper and recover any that spilt.
Hope this helps a little, just heat her up some more.
 
Chris, you mentioned you take the steel to 500 degrees before applying your PBC. I'm thinking that you need to get it hotter. I use 600 religiously, and just don't have any problems with it. Be sure you apply enough of the PBC to completely cover any visible steel (I use a peppershaker also, it's clear acrylic so I can see the level at all times). I shake over paper so that later I can crease the paper and recover any that spilt.
Hope this helps a little, just heat her up some more.

I'll try that, thank you. It makes sense that my temp is off some.
 
I just grind it. I mean, youre not HT'ing at final edge thickness, are you? If not, youve gotta grind anyways, just throw on a belt and grind it away!

Maybe you know something i dont...
 
1. Cut Blade Out
2. Drill all holes
3 Stamp my Name in using a press
4. Mill if I need to
5. Heat Treat the Steel
6 quench in oil and hold there.
7. Put back in oven and Temper the Steel
8. surface grind the hold knife.
9. Hollow the blade or flag grind
10. Hand sand the blade starting with 120 to 2000 grit.
_______________________________

Steel I use is 1095 - 1084 - 52100
_______________________________
Handles
Buffalo Horn
Brown Jig Bone
Red jig bone
Antique white
Blue Wildebeest jig bone from Africa.
Amber Wildebeest jig bone from Africa.
Sandbar stag from India.
________________________________
Hope this was of helps to someone out there. Just check out my site and see more. ------------:thumbup:
 
When I make the foil pouches just prior to heat treat, I make doubly sure that the envellopes are air tight to keep atmospheric oxygen from entering. Any tiny hole or improperly folded foil will let air in that will add more scale to the blade. Place a chip of wood no bigger than the tip of a pencil erraser in with the knife. It will absorb any oxygen that is left inside the foil pouch during heating. The wood will oxidize before the steel will thus reducing the amount of scale to clean up.
 
CMD, when you say "clean-up" do you just mean scale & pitting , or do you mean "clean-up" as in finish sanding , stones , etc., taking it to the final finish ? If that is the case, and maybe I'm in the minority here. I either use foil pouch for air quench steels or PBC for oil quench. I don't grind after heat treat. Instead I finish prior to heat treat, I find it much easier to finish steel in the annealed condition than at 59-60 HRC. A vast majority of the time my blades come out clean as a whistle with not much finish work to be done other than final sanding. I also do a stress relieving cycle prior to heat treat to reduce the possibility of any warping so that no re-grind is necessary. I do all of my thermal cycling in a foil pouch, oil & air quench to eliminate scale & pitting. For austenitizing oil quench, like I said, I use PBC. The technique's mentioned work well for me. I've found that I developed my own "system" only by asking questions like you're doing and taking bits & pieces from everyone and applying them to my set-up, tools/equipment that is available to me. Edited to add: I use PBC exactly like rhrocker uses his @ ~ 600*F through a shacker, catching the drops on a piece of cardboard
 
CMD, when you say "clean-up" do you just mean scale & pitting , or do you mean "clean-up" as in finish sanding , stones , etc., taking it to the final finish ? If that is the case, and maybe I'm in the minority here. I either use foil pouch for air quench steels or PBC for oil quench. I don't grind after heat treat. Instead I finish prior to heat treat, I find it much easier to finish steel in the annealed condition than at 59-60 HRC. A vast majority of the time my blades come out clean as a whistle with not much finish work to be done other than final sanding. I also do a stress relieving cycle prior to heat treat to reduce the possibility of any warping so that no re-grind is necessary. I do all of my thermal cycling in a foil pouch, oil & air quench to eliminate scale & pitting. For austenitizing oil quench, like I said, I use PBC. The technique's mentioned work well for me. I've found that I developed my own "system" only by asking questions like you're doing and taking bits & pieces from everyone and applying them to my set-up, tools/equipment that is available to me. Edited to add: I use PBC exactly like rhrocker uses his @ ~ 600*F through a shacker, catching the drops on a piece of cardboard

I mean cleaning up as in finish sanding. I have encountered scaling and pitting but to me that means re-grinding then starting the heat treat over again from the beginning.

Excellent question because cleaning up will probably mean different things to different folks.

Chris
 
I mean cleaning up as in finish sanding. I have encountered scaling and pitting but to me that means re-grinding then starting the heat treat over again from the beginning.

Excellent question because cleaning up will probably mean different things to different folks.

Chris

Why would you have to heat treat all over again after re-grinding :confused:

"Most" knife makers grind their blades leaving the edge slightly thicker than finished size, heat treat, then grind the blade to desired thinness and hand finish. It doesn't get much easier than this.

Edit to add, I also know a few makers who heat treat a blade blank and do all grinding after but most don't.
 
1. Cut Blade Out
2. Drill all holes
3 Stamp my Name in using a press
4. Mill if I need to
5. Heat Treat the Steel
6 quench in oil and hold there.
7. Put back in oven and Temper the Steel
8. surface grind the hold knife.
9. Hollow the blade or flag grind
10. Hand sand the blade starting with 120 to 2000 grit.
_______________________________

Steel I use is 1095 - 1084 - 52100
_______________________________
Handles
Buffalo Horn
Brown Jig Bone
Red jig bone
Antique white
Blue Wildebeest jig bone from Africa.
Amber Wildebeest jig bone from Africa.
Sandbar stag from India.
________________________________
Hope this was of helps to someone out there. Just check out my site and see more. ------------:thumbup:

You do all of your grinding AFTER heat treating? You must go through a lot of belts. I can't imagine having to grind through hardened steel.

I forge as close as I can to the final shape, grind it most of the way to finished diminsions, drill holes, normalize a couple of times, quench, temper, then final light grinding, and sanding. Once that's complete to about 400, I add my handle and bolsters, and finish it out from there.

For stubborn fire scale, I use an angle grinder so my belts don't get so dull. Very light passes make quick work of it.
 
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