Best Whittling Book?

NAN

Joined
Mar 29, 1999
Messages
129
I was wondering if anybody could recomend a really good whittling book. A book that covers all the basics, and more advanced stuff too. Even if the book is not published anymore.
THANKS!!!
-NAN-

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-War alone keys up all human energies to their maximum tension and sets the seal of nobility on those people who have the courage to face it -Benito Mussolini-
 
I would strongly recommend anything by the late E.G. Tangerman. His 1936 book WHITTLING AND WOODCARVING is a classic. You can get a 1975 era reprint from amazon.com.

This book is a true whittlers (using a knife to carve) classic, mentioned by many other carvers in their own books. It shows all the old tricks (e.g. pliars, ball-in-chain, chain link), and figure and relief woodcarving.

His Complete Book of Woodcarving is another fine reference book for woodcarving (using gouges and chisels as well as knives).

Wood Carving Scandanavian Style by Harvey Refsal is a great book teaching the history of Scandanavian figure carving, an art Refsal found to be almost extinct when he went to Sweden to seek it out. He (an American) has been influential in the resurgence of this art form both here in the US and abroad.

More good carving and whittling reference books, tools, and wood supplies can be found at Craftwoods.com

And of course, for carving and woodwoorking of all sorts there is Woodcraft

I am very glad to see folks interested in whittling and wood-carving. Be careful, carving is more addictive than buying knives.

Paracelsus, carver and sometime whittler

[This message has been edited by Paracelsus (edited 08-07-2000).]
 
Paracelus,
Thanks! I just ordered the book!
smile.gif
 
Darn it, Paracelsus, you beat me to the punch. As Paracelsus said, you can't beat Tangerman. You will really enjoy his book, "Whittling and Woodcarving."

Another book I've been having a lot of fun with lately is "Carving Twigs and Branches: A Unique Slant on Whittling" by Chris Lubkemann and also "More Carving Twigs and Branches." These books show you how to carve small birds out of twigs. It's easy to do, lot's of fun, and you can find wood to carve just lying on the ground.

I bought mine at the WoodSourceInc, 2715 29th St. S.E., Grand Rapids, MI 49512, 616-285-0600

The author's address is: Ernest Christian Lubkemann, Jr., 92 Knollwood Dr., Lancaster, PA 17601
(don't know if the address is still good)

If you look hard, maybe you can find his books on the net. I dunno. But it sure is fun to carve these little birds out of nothing more than a small branch off a tree. It's amazing what you can make from these simple twigs.

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Hoodoo

And so, to all outdoor folks, the knife is the most important item of equipment.

Ellsworth Jaeger - Wildwood Wisdom
 
Tom wolfe has lots of great books. Anything by him would be worthwhile to read. Rick butz has a book out now to I think.
Go to www.woodcraft.com . They have some great books and tools. I think I even remember them selling a kit that came with a book that tells you how to carve a few different things like a chain and a face, and it also comes with a block of basswood, a knife, and a strop.
Theres a similar kit to teach you how to chip carve also. They have about everything you need.

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It'll feel better when it stops hurting.
 
Thank you for all you replies. I think I'm going to go with the Tangerman. I seems it will be the best for a beginner, and it seems to be really popular.
THANKS!!!
-NAN-

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-War alone keys up all human energies to their maximum tension and sets the seal of nobility on those people who have the courage to face it -Benito Mussolini-
 
Ahh, a Very interesting question Rick. And one of the major factors in my developing an interest in custom knives of all kinds.

All good woodcarving blades are full flat double ground. Most have zero or maybe even slightly concave edge bevels. This grind is the strongest for woodcarving and can be sharpened to an extremely acute edge. Surpisingly, such an edge will last for a long time (several hours of hard work) without resharpening on a stone if a leather strop is used frequently.

The old time whittlers primarily used carbon steel multibladed folders (three bladed whittler, congress, and stockman patterns) with one to three inch blades. Several different tip shapes allows for a greater range of cuts. You can buy good carbon steel knives in these patterns from several manufacturers and custom makers. I often carry a Boker carbon steel whittler.

The traditional whittling knife in Scandavia is a longer fixed bladed guardless knife (similar to a pukko). It has a long swelled handle, and generally has a blade in the two to five inch range.

You can find very servicable german style carbon steel carving knives for around $10 at craftwoods and woodcraft. But my favorite whittling (and general carving) knives are custom knives. You can see some of them at both the woodcraft and craftwoods web sites linked above.

A good American style whittling knife has a very short blade (0.75 to 2 inch blades) and a relatively long (4 to 6 inch) carefully shaped handle. Many different handle shapes are used, depending on the intended function of the knife. The handle is probably more important than the blade. This allows much more leverage to be exterted while making cuts. I like fixed blade carving knives. They are less likely to cause serious injury and are a joy to use. Many makers produce fine carving knives in the $30 to $60 dollar range.

I'm in the planning stages of ordering some carving knives forged from 52100 steel from a very famous mastersmith. He offered to make them and it should prove to be an interesting project for both of us. But I anticipate paying more for these knives than the price range I just mentioned.

Learning proper technique is very important. With either a slip-joint, or fixed blade knife, cuts should be made in such a manner that the path of the blade is limited. The usual stroke Away from you is very powerful, but provides less control. Many whittling motions draw the blade Towards the hands of the carver. Various hand positions are used to limit the potential path of the blade, and provide for more powerful and accurate cuts. Probably the first thing to learn is what is a Stop Cut and why they Necessary. I'll leave this one for you budding carvers to find out about on your own.

Woodcarving and whittling is an skill that must be learned by Doing. Reading a good book is a good way to start. But you really won't begin to understand how wood is best cut and shaped until you try. The choice of wood is probably as important as your choice of tools. The traditional carvers wood is called Basswood (linden wood in England). But I also like to carve all the fruitwoods (walnut, cherry, apple, pear, etc). Sugar pine can be carved well, but most pine wood is too sappy and knotty and splits to readily to make good carving material.

I spent the first few months making lots of woodchips, breaking a lot of pieces, and finally realized that I did not know how to properly sharpen a whittling knife, let alone a gouge (curved edge chisel). Having VERY sharp tools is probably the Most important thing. Stropping edges to a high degree of polish is really a good idea.

I am a fan of all of FallsRun woodcarving tools (Flex Cut). This company has reinvented the traditional carving gouge by using very thin spring steel stock, tempered so that the edge is very hard, and the shaft bends. Coupled with ergonomic handles, these tools allow for a much wider range of carving motions and cuts with a single tool. They have recently come out with some very nice whittling knives as well: FlexCut Carving Tools

The National Woodcarvers Association home page is http://www.chipchats.org/

This is a great organization. And the publication (Chip Chats) that comes with the Membership fee ($14 annually) is really a great value and resource.

Hope I haven't gone on too long. I know this reply is more than you asked for, but all of the things I've talked about are important aspects of carving. Woodcarving is a Passion of mine. I hope so others get as interested as I have. There is nothing more relaxing and meditative for me than wood carving. It's good fun and is very relaxing. You can get started with a minimum of tools and materials. One good knife and one good piece of found wood are enough. Enjoy!

Paracelsus

[This message has been edited by Paracelsus (edited 08-07-2000).]
 
Thats whats so great about the books by tom wolfe. They all are based on one or two projects in the book. The one I have shows how to carve standing figurines of a cowboy, barmaid, card sharp, and bartender. They are fully illustrated with a few hundred pictures and captions that show how tom does each step, and explains which tool he's using and how to use it. It makes learning easy because you can work on the same project and go through step by step and make it as you read the book.
For a good selection of knives, go to www.woodcraft.com and check out everything they have. I can highly reccomend any of the swiss made knives, they are very good quality for the price.For a knife to uise for whittling, you should check out the chip carving set. You can by them individually and they ahve some great profiles. And the woodcraft brand selection of tools are good begginner sets too. Another good brand of tools that isn't carried by woodcraft is diobsud forge. They come razor sharp and stay that way with very little maintnance.
Most of the knives from woodcraft will need some sharpening before you use them.
And like paracelsus said, learn how to do a stop cut.

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It'll feel better when it stops hurting.
 
I saw a woodcarver working at an Arbor day festival. He swore by some knives that he got from someone who brought them down from a maker in Canada.

They had large (thick) dark wood handles with blades in the 2 inch range. Although rounded to some extent the handles had flat areas. The woodcarver liked them because of the large comfortable handles, blade quality, and reasonable prices.

Does anyone know who this Canadian maker is and where to get his knives?
 
That sounds alot like the diobsud forge knives I was talking about. At least they're supposed to be hand forged out of W2 tool steel, and they have handles exactly like you described. If thats the case, the carver you talked to wasn't exaggerating they really are very comfortable and usable knives.

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It'll feel better when it stops hurting.
 
Matt, Thanks for the information, but after checking a place that had pictures, the Diosbud Forge knives do not appear to be the ones. The Diosbud are Made in USA, are all rounded, and the handle appears light colored.

The ones I saw were supposedly made in Canada and had some flattish places on the rounded handles, carved rather than turned??
wink.gif
I recall them having a palm swell in the middle. Not only did the carver like the blade, he liked the BIG handle.
 
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