Bevel grinding jigs

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May 28, 2017
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I am looking for a good bevel grinding jig for making knives. I make skinning knives, kitchen knives, and the occasional double-edged dagger but always have a heck of a time getting the bevels right, especially on daggers. Does anyone know of a jig or simple machine I can buy that would simplify this process? I use a Grizzly grinder and have been getting good results with it since I tuned it according to the instructions I got on here a few months ago.
Thank you all for being such a great resource.
 
YouTube has a few DIY videos that are all quite similar. I haven’t used or made one but they do not seem overly complicated.
 
YouTube has a few DIY videos that are all quite similar. I haven’t used or made one but they do not seem overly complicated.
Thanks. I've tried a few of the "home-brew" things off of You tube. I'm not sure whether I'm using them wrong or it's just my building skills but I haven't had much luck with them.
Thank you though. You tube is usually my first resort.

Thanks again
 
Even grinding jigs have a learning curve, grinding well is a relatively hard skill to acquire. I don't know how many knives you have made but the old addage "After you've ground about a hundred you start to get the hang of it" is pretty true.
Lots of practice is your best bet.
 
The big problem with bevel jigs that slide along the worktable is that you can only grind a straight line. That sorta limits one stylistically.

I remember one articulating jig that supposedly worked not too bad. Don't know it's fate.

One item that may or may not be helpful to you would be Fred Rowe's Bubble Jig, if he is still making them. He's a member here. They are a guide to teach you a steady hand, not replace your hand with a jig. For flat grinding.

I agree with Stan: suffer through the learning and then you do not need a jig. Freehand is stylistic freedom.
 
Even grinding jigs have a learning curve, grinding well is a relatively hard skill to acquire.

I just started in this wonderful art and am a long way away from thinking about grinding a bevel with anything other than a grinding jig and file.
I also only have a 1x30 belt sander for now, but am starting to practice on scraps. It's much harder than it looks!
 
Grinding bevels is an acquired skill, like throwing a curve ball or riding a bicycle. The ball doesn't break, you fall off the bike. You throw again, ride again. Eventually it works or you move on to a tricycle.

The one jig I definitely do like is that little carbide-faced clamp to even out the plunges. Good investment.

As an aside, check out Wolf's stuff. Handmade. No power tools. https://www.instagram.com/wolfgangloerchner/?hl=en

There was a Czech or Slovak who was posting incredible pieces of art here, done with only hand tools. Can't remember the name. 10 years ago.

As I age, I trend more and more toward slower, hand operations. File more, rasps and files for shaping handles, etc. Since I don't do it for money, the meditative aspect of quiet focus is addictive. Especially if you're married! :)
 
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The big problem with bevel jigs that slide along the worktable is that you can only grind a straight line. That sorta limits one stylistically.

I remember one articulating jig that supposedly worked not too bad. Don't know it's fate.

One item that may or may not be helpful to you would be Fred Rowe's Bubble Jig, if he is still making them. He's a member here. They are a guide to teach you a steady hand, not replace your hand with a jig. For flat grinding.

I agree with Stan: suffer through the learning and then you do not need a jig. Freehand is stylistic freedom.

while I agree on learning free hand a jig can certainly grind more than a straight line. Can do curved plunges and grinds that follow the shape of the edge with a jig
 
I've only made a few dozen knives so I'm definitely a noob at this. I have to agree with Ron that it's much harder than it looks. I have had the most problems trying to grind a dagger blade as the double bevels will never come out to quite the same angle. Practice practice practice. I'll get it eventually.
Thank you all.
 
What I have been doing from the very start is trying to grind without the jig and then repairing the mistakes with the jig. For the longer blades I really like the push stick and work rest method. You will gradually learn to feel the angle and grind. I still do mistakes but usually I have room to make them better. One thing that helped me a lot is to learn to feel the the angle and bevel before I push into the belt and remove material. Pressure and constant movement is equally important when using the jig.
 
Thanks. I've tried a few of the "home-brew" things off of You tube. I'm not sure whether I'm using them wrong or it's just my building skills but I haven't had much luck with them.
Thank you though. You tube is usually my first resort.

Thanks again
If you have adjustable work rest , piece of angle iron is best jig you can make/find .If you show pictures of what you done so far I can tell you where you make mistake .
 
while I agree on learning free hand a jig can certainly grind more than a straight line. Can do curved plunges and grinds that follow the shape of the edge with a jig

Do you by chance have a name or a link I can see these jigs? I’ve been gone years and am not current. Thank you.
 
What I have been doing from the very start is trying to grind without the jig and then repairing the mistakes with the jig. For the longer blades I really like the push stick and work rest method. You will gradually learn to feel the angle and grind. I still do mistakes but usually I have room to make them better. One thing that helped me a lot is to learn to feel the the angle and bevel before I push into the belt and remove material. Pressure and constant movement is equally important when using the jig.
Don't listen to that advice that learning to grind free hand is something special , learning free hand grinding is just a waste of time.... and someone will never master it . With jig everything is faster and more accurate....of course even with jig there is learning curve .
You can grind any type of grind with jig ........ much faster and belt would last longer !
 
I am looking for a good bevel grinding jig for making knives. I make skinning knives, kitchen knives, and the occasional double-edged dagger but always have a heck of a time getting the bevels right, especially on daggers. Does anyone know of a jig or simple machine I can buy that would simplify this process? I use a Grizzly grinder and have been getting good results with it since I tuned it according to the instructions I got on here a few months ago.
Thank you all for being such a great resource.
Some advice , for what i think is the most common mistakes people make .Don t start to grind plunge from where you want them to be after finishing .leave some space so you can at the end make them symmetrical.Make sure that the first contact of the steel with the belt is on the entire surface of belt , first touch a little further from plunge then move back little and then go on right side/ to the tip of knife .When belt make angled contact with steel it will remove far more steel and raise bevel line on that spot /most time that is RIGHT on plunge line . ....
I will edit later with more this post , i have midnight guests came to me across the ocean :)
This is my first and only dagger and first and only Bowie type kinfe .......with JIG !
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Times have changed, some. Time is change. That’s why I returned to Shoptalk; to learn wazzup. To each their own. :)

I’d enjoy seeing clear shots of your jig, N Natlek . Thanks in advance.
 
Times have changed, some. Time is change. That’s why I returned to Shoptalk; to learn wazzup. To each their own. :)

I’d enjoy seeing clear shots of your jig, N Natlek . Thanks in advance.
Which one ? I was stupid enough to make every jig I've seen on the net..........And then I realized it wasn't up to the jig but up to me !
This is what i use now for small knife , simple piece of angle iron .For kitchen knife I use longer square stainless tube , blank fixed with CA glue or double-sided self-adhesive tape :)
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I've done a few daggers recently. I can't imagine using a jig. I leave a bit more thickness towards the tip, so my angle is evolving along the length.
I find it easier to put some distal taper into the profile before starting the bevels.
I'm pretty comfortable moving the center line around and straightening it, refining the tip etc. The only tough part is getting the plunge even without hitting the ricasso area and putting a gap where the guard should meet (I'm doing a FS dagger right now). Also, scribe lines down both edges.
The only jig for me is a few quick steps to celebrate if it comes out how I hope.
 
I'm not advocating a particular method, just sharing my experience. I tried using a jig early on (square aluminum tubing) with an adjustable work rest. This was not successful for me. I also tried the work rest and push-stick method. This worked a bit better and is probably something I could learn and I might revisit it. I switched to free hand grinding after watching the video linked below. It all made sense to me all of a sudden and the first knife I ground this way turned out pretty decent. I still have a lot to improve, but I am getting better at it. If you want to make plungeless kitchen knives and grind in a distal taper while doing the bevels, this method might be worth a try.
 
Everyone has different goals and talents in their shop, blanket statements as is this is the right way or wrong may not be your best advice.
But it does seem a workable answer to a lot of questions here are "make a bunch more knives and you'll figure out what works for you" (or doesn't)
James.
 
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